disco-andy
New Member
- Posts
- 26
- Location
- Harlow Essex
Hi i hope this may help someone
after a long time away from landrover 13 years i got myself a nice disco 300 tdi.
as with all cars i went about servicing and as there was nothing to say when the T/BELT was last changed set about it, when i went to purchase a belt i was told about the mods that landrover had put into practice so leaving the belt decided to investigate more to see what i needed when striped i had all original bits ie: crank pulley no shoulder with a shoulder tensioner . no sign of belt wear but to be on the safe side i replaced with the recommended kit with shouldered crank pully and plain tensioner and tightened to the now 11nm as opposed to the original spek of 14nm all ok so i thought until three weeks later injection pump decided to do an impression of a sprinkler when timing case came of to fit new pump it was full of dust the black death i call it the belt was shredded to half its width after talking with my local landy specialist who i have known a long time and trust he said the only thing he could think of was the other kit £££££ which
included a new front plate, this set my grey matter to work and what i came up with after a lot of thought and trial and measurement was this
the front plate is not stiff enough to take the tension of the belt and bows giving a deflection on the pump pulley of about half a mm, try it yourself a straight edge put across the cam and pump pulley will show you what i mean do it with no tension on belt and again with belt tensioned this must be why they dropped the belt tension from 14 to 11 my work round was this
if your lucky and have the bracket on the back of the pump this works and hase been ok for 9 months all ok
1: take of front T/B cover and put a straight edge across cam and pump pulley and measure any defection with feeler gauge then slacken the T/B tensioner
2: slacken all 5 bolts on bracket at back of injection pump 3 to block 2 to rear of pump
3: the 3 that go to the block tighten finger tight (i found it helps to mark these 3 with a spot of tippex at 12 o'clock)
4: take a straight edge and place across pump and cam pullys cross fingers for no deflection if ok carry on if not read on and it will be clear how to correct deflection
5: i had no deflection at this point (and half mm with everything tight) i found after many attempt that one turn anti clockwise on the 3 bolts on the rear pump bracket was ok( this is why when finger tight i marked them makes it easier to see how far you have turned them)
6: now take some card or folded paper and slide in between bracket and block(this will be removed so leave some sticking out)to pull bracket flush with back of bolt heads
7: now tighten the 2 bolts on the same bracket that go to the back of the pump
i could not find a setting so guessed at 45 nm
8: remove your cardboard and tighten the 3 bolts to the block again 45 nm?
9: tension T/B and check with straight edge across pulleys if no deflection is present put it all back and to be safe check after a couple of weeks, if you still have some deflection repeat previous steps until none is apparent (it took me about 10 attempts before i got mine right and its been ok since.( 9 months)
i may have got lucky and i take no responsibility for you using this information
but if you do and it works for you or not please leave a comment to help others decide
Good Luck and thanks to those who post info that helps us all
after a long time away from landrover 13 years i got myself a nice disco 300 tdi.
as with all cars i went about servicing and as there was nothing to say when the T/BELT was last changed set about it, when i went to purchase a belt i was told about the mods that landrover had put into practice so leaving the belt decided to investigate more to see what i needed when striped i had all original bits ie: crank pulley no shoulder with a shoulder tensioner . no sign of belt wear but to be on the safe side i replaced with the recommended kit with shouldered crank pully and plain tensioner and tightened to the now 11nm as opposed to the original spek of 14nm all ok so i thought until three weeks later injection pump decided to do an impression of a sprinkler when timing case came of to fit new pump it was full of dust the black death i call it the belt was shredded to half its width after talking with my local landy specialist who i have known a long time and trust he said the only thing he could think of was the other kit £££££ which
included a new front plate, this set my grey matter to work and what i came up with after a lot of thought and trial and measurement was this
the front plate is not stiff enough to take the tension of the belt and bows giving a deflection on the pump pulley of about half a mm, try it yourself a straight edge put across the cam and pump pulley will show you what i mean do it with no tension on belt and again with belt tensioned this must be why they dropped the belt tension from 14 to 11 my work round was this
if your lucky and have the bracket on the back of the pump this works and hase been ok for 9 months all ok
1: take of front T/B cover and put a straight edge across cam and pump pulley and measure any defection with feeler gauge then slacken the T/B tensioner
2: slacken all 5 bolts on bracket at back of injection pump 3 to block 2 to rear of pump
3: the 3 that go to the block tighten finger tight (i found it helps to mark these 3 with a spot of tippex at 12 o'clock)
4: take a straight edge and place across pump and cam pullys cross fingers for no deflection if ok carry on if not read on and it will be clear how to correct deflection
5: i had no deflection at this point (and half mm with everything tight) i found after many attempt that one turn anti clockwise on the 3 bolts on the rear pump bracket was ok( this is why when finger tight i marked them makes it easier to see how far you have turned them)
6: now take some card or folded paper and slide in between bracket and block(this will be removed so leave some sticking out)to pull bracket flush with back of bolt heads
7: now tighten the 2 bolts on the same bracket that go to the back of the pump
i could not find a setting so guessed at 45 nm
8: remove your cardboard and tighten the 3 bolts to the block again 45 nm?
9: tension T/B and check with straight edge across pulleys if no deflection is present put it all back and to be safe check after a couple of weeks, if you still have some deflection repeat previous steps until none is apparent (it took me about 10 attempts before i got mine right and its been ok since.( 9 months)
i may have got lucky and i take no responsibility for you using this information
but if you do and it works for you or not please leave a comment to help others decide
Good Luck and thanks to those who post info that helps us all
