300 Tdi timing belt , change or not ?

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trigga72

trigga72

Well-Known Member
Posts
907
Hi Chaps,

I have a wolf 90 off the Mod , it's done 24000 miles, original engine , everything looks new under the bonnet . Now the vehicle is 1999 registered. Should I do the belt based on age or not ?
I'm guessing this has either been in the Marines reserve or had a midlife rebuild?
What do you think ?

Gluv
 
Change it, even if the miles are low you do not know how old it is and the belt may have stood in one position a long time if truck had been in storage.
 
1999 will be the demob date, not the build date.

But, either way, the answer is yes. Change it. My 110 had a new belt just before I parked it up 4 years ago. I'm hoping to get it running again within weeks and it will be getting a new belt. For the £20 or whatever they cost, it's worth my bother.

(Plus the ip is off so I need to time it up anyway)

If you can take it apart before you order, that would be good, as you can check the crank sprocket has been done also. At some point the lip was moved from the idler to the crank sprocket to reduce belt wander. Yours may or may not have had the revision.
 
Well worth doing, especially as its a 300 and they had issues for a few years with the cambelt running up against the timing chest cover, which wore the belt away until it was so thin it snapped!
Various kits were available at the time depending on vin number.

The cheapo timing pin kit off of ebay is a decent tool, add in some long M6 (I think) bolts so you can pull the crank pulley off if its seized on.
 
Tools that, whilst I know are not essential, make the job a whole load easier -

One of those red box timing and puller sets.
The crank locking tool
A dial torque gauge

Loads of guides say you need to take out the radiator. I think, maybe, I did the first time, as I was dilligantly following directions. I've never bothered since.

Get yourself some thread lock for the crank nut when you get it back together again. Lack of thread lock there was why I purchased my 110 on "spares or repairs" pricing...
 
julianf said:
Tools that, whilst I know are not essential, make the job a whole load easier -

One of those red box timing and puller sets.
The crank locking tool
A dial torque gauge

Loads of guides say you need to take out the radiator. I think, maybe, I did the first time, as I was dilligantly following directions. I've never bothered since.

Get yourself some thread lock for the crank nut when you get it back together again. Lack of thread lock there was why I purchased my 110 on "spares or repairs" pricing...
Click to expand...

I managed to bag a brand new 3/8 torque leader dial wrench a few months ago . I'm just ordering the other bits as we speak.
I'm carefully going through the parts manual as it appears I have a 25 series engine . Must be a Mod series
 
julianf said:
Tools that, whilst I know are not essential, make the job a whole load easier -

One of those red box timing and puller sets.
The crank locking tool
A dial torque gauge

Loads of guides say you need to take out the radiator. I think, maybe, I did the first time, as I was dilligantly following directions. I've never bothered since.

Get yourself some thread lock for the crank nut when you get it back together again. Lack of thread lock there was why I purchased my 110 on "spares or repairs" pricing...
Click to expand...
I didn't put thread lock on mine, hopefully it will stay on till the weather warms up and I replace the oil seal.
 
mick the builder said:
I didn't put thread lock on mine, hopefully it will stay on till the weather warms up and I replace the oil seal.
Click to expand...

Yeah, i doubt its essential, but belt and braces and all that.

I bought a 300tdi 110csw. As i said, spares or repair... Chap was right surprised i was planning on driving it home (it was all road legal etc)

Real odd fault - as if the timing was out, but he had checked all that. Just no power, and felt like it was going to stall. But not all of the time.

It took me a while to find the error, but it was that the crank sprocket was able to move slightly. Which had cause it to, i guess, vibrate against the woodruff key, and had worn the groove in the sprocket (but, fortunately, not the crankshaft) so there was rotational play in the sprocket, relative to the crank.

Ie it would all time up correctly, as doing the X rotations clockwise when setting the timing evidently took out the backlash, but, when driving, it would move around.

I think it was a bit of a freak fault really.
 
julianf said:
Yeah, i doubt its essential, but belt and braces and all that.

I bought a 300tdi 110csw. As i said, spares or repair... Chap was right surprised i was planning on driving it home (it was all road legal etc)

Real odd fault - as if the timing was out, but he had checked all that. Just no power, and felt like it was going to stall. But not all of the time.

It took me a while to find the error, but it was that the crank sprocket was able to move slightly. Which had cause it to, i guess, vibrate against the woodruff key, and had worn the groove in the sprocket (but, fortunately, not the crankshaft) so there was rotational play in the sprocket, relative to the crank.

Ie it would all time up correctly, as doing the X rotations clockwise when setting the timing evidently took out the backlash, but, when driving, it would move around.

I think it was a bit of a freak fault really.
Click to expand...
So you reckon the slight movement of the sprocket was enough to interfere with the timing? That was a nice easy fix.
 
mick the builder said:
So you reckon the slight movement of the sprocket was enough to interfere with the timing? That was a nice easy fix.
Click to expand...

All I know is that I changed the crank sprocket, after grinding out the remains of the old Woodruff key (that took some time also) and fitted new and the problem was no longer there.

As I recall now, both the sprocket keyway and the key itself were both worn, so the amount of play was doubled.

It was a cheap fix, but, sadly, it wasn't the first thing I looked for!
 
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julianf said:
All I know is that I changed the crank sprocket, after grinding out the remains of the old Woodruff key (that took some time also) and fitted new and the problem was no longer there.

As I recall now, both the sprocket keyway and the key itself were both worn, so the amount of play was doubled.

I
Had the same problem on a mate's disco . On his engine the crank keyway was damaged as well.
He had little dosh to spare so lot's of work with the grinder, new woodruff, chemical metal, bearing retainer on crank and nut [ stronger than thread lock ]
We put a new cam belt on because I knew getting that pully off again might be difficult. Engine was still fine when the disco gave up about fifteen years later.
Click to expand...
 
julianf said:
Yeah, i doubt its essential, but belt and braces and all that.

I bought a 300tdi 110csw. As i said, spares or repair... Chap was right surprised i was planning on driving it home (it was all road legal etc)

Real odd fault - as if the timing was out, but he had checked all that. Just no power, and felt like it was going to stall. But not all of the time.

It took me a while to find the error, but it was that the crank sprocket was able to move slightly. Which had cause it to, i guess, vibrate against the woodruff key, and had worn the groove in the sprocket (but, fortunately, not the crankshaft) so there was rotational play in the sprocket, relative to the crank.

Ie it would all time up correctly, as doing the X rotations clockwise when setting the timing evidently took out the backlash, but, when driving, it would move around.

I think it was a bit of a freak fault really.
Click to expand...

Seen that exact fault on a 200tdi in a range rover rmany moons ago.
 
Thanks for talking me into changing the belt Chaps . I found the crank pulley bolt was loose when I put my breaker bar on .It literally fell undone under the weight of the bar ( breaker 4 ft long 3/4 drive ) :eek:
Fortunately caught it all just in time , no damage to shaft or keys :)
 
trigga72 said:
Thanks for talking me into changing the belt Chaps . I found the crank pulley bolt was loose when I put my breaker bar on .It literally fell undone under the weight of the bar ( breaker 4 ft long 3/4 drive ) :eek:
Fortunately caught it all just in time , no damage to shaft or keys :)
Click to expand...

Ft when you refit it, worth painting a line right across the bolt head onto the pulley, so quick look will tell you all is good.
 
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