300 Tdi Rebuild

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Goc3k said:
I haven't ever looked inside a vac pump but as I understand it is just a piston with a series of one way check valves which passes into the crankcase, can't remember if it had a spongey / split hose up to the booster or if one of its internal seals / valves had gone but it had started pressurizing the crankcase, or a better way of putting it was it wasn't pulling a vacuum anymore but just acting as an air pump.

Don't think it was directly pushing oil past rings but excess pressure always upsets oiling, more latent vapour more windage, more work for the vent system etc - all contributing to the same effect.
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Interesting, I'll investigate mine. I know how to check if it's pulling a vacuum, but no idea how to check if it's pushing air in to crankcase.
 
it always pushes into the crankcase as I understand it, it's more that it just pushes a lot more in if it's not pulling a vacuum properly
 
So are you saying if servo or tubing has a leak vacuum pump will push the air leaking in to the crankcase creating excess crankcase pressure?
There are two o'rings on the vac pump that go hard and need replacing to prevent crankcase being pressurised if I recall correctly.
 
Blackburn said:
So are you saying if servo or tubing has a leak vacuum pump will push the air leaking in to the crankcase creating excess crankcase pressure?
There are two o'rings on the vac pump that go hard and need replacing to prevent crankcase being pressurised if I recall correctly.
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Just sat down to investigate vacuum pump and if they can be repaired or not. I'll investigate the O rings, cos IIRC new vac pumps are expensive. Cheers, mate :)
 
Disco1BFG said:
err3559 - about £80
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Cheers, BFG. Is that a typo/sausage fingers? I got ERR3539 Paddocksjust do a Britpart one. LRDirect offer the list of usual suspects from unbranded at £61, Britpart £64, Bearmach £89, Unipump £89 and Land Rover £584 :rolleyes:
Never heard of Unipump have you?
I know what you are thinking, for the cost just replace it. Dilemma is mine will be the LR original and if I can fix it with a few O rings or a new diaphragm that might be better than buying a poor pattern part called Britpart, Bearmach etc?
What to you reckon? Am I being a prawn or not ;)
 
Al2O3 said:
Cheers, BFG. Is that a typo/sausage fingers? I got ERR3539 Paddocksjust do a Britpart one. LRDirect offer the list of usual suspects from unbranded at £61, Britpart £64, Bearmach £89, Unipump £89 and Land Rover £584 :rolleyes:
Never heard of Unipump have you?
I know what you are thinking, for the cost just replace it. Dilemma is mine will be the LR original and if I can fix it with a few O rings or a new diaphragm that might be better than buying a poor pattern part called Britpart, Bearmach etc?
What to you reckon? Am I being a prawn or not ;)
Click to expand...

Ooops - part number was indeed a typo - ERR3539 - Apologies.:oops:

You're not being a prawn at all - the so called quality of parts is quite shocking, and of greater concern, such a ****ing lottery it's infuriating...:mad::mad::mad:
In terms of repair, I've not replaced enough to not lots about them TBH - but I do have a failed one in the scrap bin, so I'll have a look and revert.... Always better to fix what you have I think - Although, I understand the electric ones are better - as they are only running as required, and I think this is the way I'd go when the need arises on my own D1's .....

Nope, never heard of Unipump. I doubt I'd bother with the blue box er, "offerring" :rolleyes::eek:

Found some more prices:-

Genuine Wabco £195 :- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383116218322

OEM quality with a four year warranty £92 :- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263977084666

5 year warranty one £64 :- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252248988522
 
Disco1BFG said:
Ooops - part number was indeed a typo - ERR3539 - Apologies.:oops:

You're not being a prawn at all - the so called quality of parts is quite shocking, and of greater concern, such a ****ing lottery it's infuriating...:mad::mad::mad:
In terms of repair, I've not replaced enough to not lots about them TBH - but I do have a failed one in the scrap bin, so I'll have a look and revert.... Always better to fix what you have I think - Although, I understand the electric ones are better - as they are only running as required, and I think this is the way I'd go when the need arises on my own D1's .....

Nope, never heard of Unipump. I doubt I'd bother with the blue box er, "offerring" :rolleyes::eek:

Found some more prices:-

Genuine Wabco £195 :- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383116218322

OEM quality with a four year warranty £92 :- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263977084666

5 year warranty one £64 :- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252248988522
Click to expand...
Wow, good hunting! I fell asleep :oops:
I'll have a look at those in the morning. I didn't know you could get electronic ones.
 
Disco1BFG said:
Yep! - else oil consumption really will be very silly indeed :D:D:D
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Ha ha, stupid thing to say :D:D:D I didn't know you could get a blanking plate or was wondering if you can take the foot off the mechanical pump. Replied without really thinking it through! :rolleyes: I think I'll try a mechanical one. It should work for a while, enough to tell me if the old one was pressurising the engine and causing the oil consumption.
 
Al2O3 said:
@Disco1BFG
I've been Googling parts all night. CV joint kits, stub axle kits, brake discs and vac pumps!
Discovered Britpart OEM Vac Pumps are made by Unipump https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=ERR3539&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10&facet[part_type]=OEM
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g@@gle = :eek::eek::eek::eek: - other search engines are available ;):D

Sounds like a big job coming up ! ....

Unipump seem to be well known in vac pump technology - they seem to make a lot of sewage pumping set ups (yuk!) ... if they are OEM, then it should be fine ... If it came as some noname POS - just send it back ....:rolleyes:

I had a nosy at the scrap pump I have - it'd be easy to get to bits ... but the "poppet" (?) valves appear to be held in by swaging the casting, so it'd be awkward to put back together without rebuilding the damaged swage with TIG .... I'd doubt it'd be anything approaching economic.... 'specially given that the pumps are still available :)
 
Disco1BFG said:
g@@gle = :eek::eek::eek::eek: - other search engines are available ;):D

Sounds like a big job coming up ! ....

Unipump seem to be well known in vac pump technology - they seem to make a lot of sewage pumping set ups (yuk!) ... if they are OEM, then it should be fine ... If it came as some noname POS - just send it back ....:rolleyes:

I had a nosy at the scrap pump I have - it'd be easy to get to bits ... but the "poppet" (?) valves appear to be held in by swaging the casting, so it'd be awkward to put back together without rebuilding the damaged swage with TIG .... I'd doubt it'd be anything approaching economic.... 'specially given that the pumps are still available :)
Click to expand...
Oooo I wonder if they are allowed to put "by appoint to Richard the third" on their signs.
 
Disco1BFG said:
g@@gle = :eek::eek::eek::eek: - other search engines are available ;):D

Sounds like a big job coming up ! ....

Unipump seem to be well known in vac pump technology - they seem to make a lot of sewage pumping set ups (yuk!) ... if they are OEM, then it should be fine ... If it came as some noname POS - just send it back ....:rolleyes:

I had a nosy at the scrap pump I have - it'd be easy to get to bits ... but the "poppet" (?) valves appear to be held in by swaging the casting, so it'd be awkward to put back together without rebuilding the damaged swage with TIG .... I'd doubt it'd be anything approaching economic.... 'specially given that the pumps are still available :)
Click to expand...

Yes, a decent job coming up. I need to change the front discs and I know there's a fair amount of wear on the CV splines, so thought I might as well go the whole hog while I'm on. The wheel bearings are still a nice fit on the stub axle too :rolleyes: But, the CV joints and stub axles are original and done 200K so it makes sense to change the lot.

I'm going to pop out and have another look at the vac pump and check for suction on my thumb :) There's a bit of oil around there which I thought was coming from a poor quality vent pipe, but might well be the vac pump. The vac pump is original too and so may well be passed it's best. Looking like I'll be ordering one of those this afternoon on top of my other order this morning. If it turns out to be a simple solution to my oil consumption I'll be tracking @Goc3k down because he'll be due a big cuddle ;)
 
Vac pump still sucking quite hard on my thumb :( Don't know if that means it can still be pressurising the engine :confused:
There is oil above it, but certainly seems to be coming from the head to block vent pipe, which seems to be made of cheese as it keeps splitting alongside the jubilee clip. I'll get a new one and clean it all down so I can see what happens with it.
 
Just been cleaning up my vac pump as part of my rebuild.
The way it seems to opperate is the engine oil system feeds some oil into the pump which pumps air from the direction of the brake solenoid and the air oil mix is then pumped into the crank case ( via timing cover on the TD5) once the air is pumped out of the servo and the connecting pipe then very little flow wil take place and only a tiny bit of air will be passed into the crankcase, The pump is quite happy to do this its a kind of rotor vane pump. if you had a leak anywhere on the vacuum line then the pump would pull air into the line and pump it into the crank cas, if you are happy the pump is working then look for possible leaks in the line which could allow air to flow. I teed a gauge into my vacuum line to check the opperation, and it seemd ok
Below is a rotor vane in a different application but pump principal is trhe same.
655_1.jpg
 
raywin said:
Just been cleaning up my vac pump as part of my rebuild.
The way it seems to opperate is the engine oil system feeds some oil into the pump which pumps air from the direction of the brake solenoid and the air oil mix is then pumped into the crank case ( via timing cover on the TD5) once the air is pumped out of the servo and the connecting pipe then very little flow wil take place and only a tiny bit of air will be passed into the crankcase, The pump is quite happy to do this its a kind of rotor vane pump. if you had a leak anywhere on the vacuum line then the pump would pull air into the line and pump it into the crank cas, if you are happy the pump is working then look for possible leaks in the line which could allow air to flow. I teed a gauge into my vacuum line to check the opperation, and it seemd ok
Below is a rotor vane in a different application but pump principal is trhe same.
View attachment 188265
Click to expand...
That's tremendous. Mine is pulling reasonably hard on my thumb. I don't know if it would do that if it was sucking air in through a split lower down in the pipe. I blanked the EGR valve when I rebuilt the engine and there is a T that goes from the main vac pump to the valve that then fed to the EGR. I blocked the pipe that went to the EGR, but it still feeds back through the valve etc. I wonder if I should cut the feed off right back at the main vac pipe and block it there. Cheers, mate, It's a good lead to chase up :)
 
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