300 tdi auto injector pump failed

I havent got one to sell but I bought one from e bay for under 50 quid.If its the same main EDC unit it lives inside the drivers footwell right hand wall panel....the inner-inner wing as it were.Its quite a fiddle getting it in and out and re-connected.

Re : the loom.....the problem is often the wires that run behind (and bolted to) the head ,and run 2 to the coolant temp thermistor on top of the head and 2 to the manifold temp sensor.As they are supposed to be clamped to the back of the head they make removal of same tricky and are often stretched in the process.Similarly they are rarely clamped back on as getting a spanner behind the head after re-fitting is often a job too far.
They sometimes get caught between head and block during re-fit.Also,the wires running to the coolant sensor are normally badly effected by heat and oil and break down,affecting the cold starting adjustment by the ECU. The manifold sensor wires often become damaged by heat from the exhaust manifold.

The above is pretty much all the damage that the loom takes in most cases but its enough to bugger things up nicely. Its worth chasing the wires back as fay as you can to check that they are not trapped in the head....but remember that they SHOULD be clamped ,so not hanging loose.I have soldered on new lengths of wire to both of these before,and ran them through heatproof woven sleeve.The connector to the head sensor is often heat and oil damaged too,but it is a stock Bosch part to be found on many scrap cars,volvos etc,that use bosch systems.

I am slowly going through all of this myself so will be interested to hear what you experience.I have TWO of the bloody EDC auto 300 discos at the moment,only one on the road and thats the one with all the problems,so I cant take apart any more than I can re-assemble in a day as its my only transport!

Theres lots about this subject in the disco section under EDC but Im sure you have seen that !

useful post shocker I was having cold start problems and after weeks of searching and head scratching not to mention replacement parts I located the wires to the engine temp sensor and air temp sensor damaged and melted together down the back of the head .What a bugger to repair ,managed to solder new wires in . I thought it was the injection pump before I found the wires so bought a secondhand one which after fitting gave me other problems which took me down another route for over a week ,contacted the guy who sold me it and he sourced me another one which I fitted and that one put the engine managment light on and missfired about 1500 rpm. yesterday refited my old pump and the thing started straight away the only problem seems to be it feels sluggish and not as quick off the mark as before , are yours quick to accelerate from still ?,before I started looking into the cold start problem it went great as I removed the egr and cat and fitted a single box exhaust to help it breath did this straight away after getting it

you can check the resistance at the ecu multiplug to see if the wiring is ok
plug pin 13 and 53 are engine temp sensor and should be 2280-2720 ohms at 20 deg c
plug pin 13 and 52 are air temp sensor and should be 6030-6370 ohms at 20 deg c

No,neither of mine are very quick from the mark.Even the jap 97 one that hasnt any EDC problems is no rocket.And that is de-cat and de-EGR.I did have a 95 ES auto at one stage that was a lot better off the mark but I cant recall if it was EDC or not.I have thought about getting a 2nd hand pump but your experience holds true to my theory that most of them are buggered so you are unlikely to get a good one.I think the only way around,short of conversion to a manual pump,is to get the pump that you have serviced.Not cheap,but neither are the options.

Somewhere in the Disco section is a useful how-to about cutting the coolant temp wire,routing it to a momentary action switch and diverting the signal current through a 5.6Kohm resistor to simulate the correct thermistor reading to trigger cold start timing advance in the ECU.I havent gotten around to this yet but I plan to use one of the redundant radio remote control switches in the speedo pod as a momentary switch and solder the resistor across the contacts.The resistor needed is marked with a green then blue then red stripe,with a gold one at the far right.

How this will affect running,I dont know.Several people on here have done this mod,including BigLad (who knows his stuff!) and swear by it.We will see.

Had a look at the ECU yesterday and its even more of an embuggerment than I remembered.Its up inside the kick panel but the fusebox block all access,so thats got to come out first.Not a 5 minute job.

Nice going on the resistance readings.We are compiling a fair bit of info on EDC here.I will try to link the switch resistor thing when I find it again.Until then,lets keep each other up to date on probs and solutions.

all the best

shocksi

Heres a link to a conversion to manual pump plan.....

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/disco-edc-mechanical-fuel-injection-pump-121731.html

I will probably be hung-drawn-and-quartered for this......but heres a link to.....another forum !!!!!!

Land Rover UK Forums

.........which tells you how to make a bypass switch for the coolant temp thing

at last its back on the road it was the ecu what a sod

nice to know you got it sorted ( was it expensive ? and how did you find out for certain ? )hope mine gets sorted soon ,put it into team valley landrovers