3 amigos and gearbox problem

The 3 amigos have come back. Any members near Daventry that have a dianostic tool so I can know which sensor is bad so I can replace?

I think my gearbox is on the way out. Disco has 170k. I changed the oil about 20k ago and it had lots of metals on the magnetic. I changed about 2k ago (with ATF this time) and it had lots of metal again. I changed yesterday and it quite a bit of metal (ATF again). I changed because changing to 3rd isn't smooth anymore. 5 gear has always been noisy. The gear stick is leaning to the left so I thought I would adjust the left/right bias but came up against 9 rivets that needed removing before getting there so stopped.

Neil
07899077386

Re the box, if you have manual, and it's a Disco one it should be ATF III. If D2 should be Texaco MTF94. From what you said it looks like you have a manual. You could just double declutch into third, drilling out the rivets isn't too tough, putting new ones in is tougher! (I stupidly put longer ones in because that was all I had, far harder! Didn't have the sense to take each rivet apart and cut down the aluminium tube!

As long a 5'th gear is noisy it can't be auto

neilbar said:

The gear stick is leaning to the left so I thought I would adjust the left/right bias but came up against 9 rivets that needed removing before getting there so stopped.

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Better insist on this and drill out those rivets cos it's a big probability that the problem is there and maybe not enough to adjust the bias but the plate can be cracked or you need to replace the plastic gear change pivot

sierrafery said:

As long a 5'th gear is noisy it can't be auto

Better insist on this and drill out those rivets cos it's a big probability that the problem is there and maybe not enough to adjust the bias but the plate can be cracked or you need to replace the plastic gear change pivot

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Realised that and changed my post, but by the way, when you've got access,OP, it would probably be a good idea to strip out the difflock/hi-lo ratio lever mechanism, take it off and free up, clean and regrease, as they do seize up. I've had to do this on two Discos and getting the interior apart, drilling out and re-rivetting is BY FAR the biggest part of the pain in doing the job!

Stanleysteamer said:

Realised that and changed my post,....

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you didnt change it enough cos you were still confused:

Stanleysteamer said:

a Disco one it should be ATF III. If D2 should be Texaco MTF94

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as it's in the title about 3 amigos so it can't be Disco 1 with those

As always Sierrafery, you are completely on the ball and I am confusion.com!
To be honest I was wondering if he had an auto and was thinking of lock-up being a sort of 5th! Anyway, too much info is better than not enough, at least in this case! So what do you think of his putting ATF in instead of Texaco MTF94?

Thank you for the replies.

I stopped by the 4x4 garage that do bits on the disco. They put it on the computer and it's the back right abs sensor so I will try to clean.

Sorry I should of said a r380 gearbox. Here Ashcroft recommend ATF https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/r380-faq-s.html and the place I stopped by use ATF too.

It's shifting better again now after the recent oil change but lets see what happens.

neilbar said:

hey put it on the computer and it's the back right abs sensor so I will try to clean.

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Cleaning an inductive hall effect sensor is futile, in most cases when sensor related fault codes are stored a new hub is needed

as about ATF in the D2's R380 maybe it gives better results where the temps dont go below -5*C ever...cos if it gets colder only the genuine MTF94 works well... i found that out after i changed 3 kinds of recommended alternatives(ATF included) within a month few winters back cos it was a pig to select low gears from cold

Fair enough that is what happen with the front one. The hub had to be replaced. I live in hope that sometimes replacing the sensor will fix it.

Just order a new hub with sensor for about £60. I will try to fit myself.

A 6inch bearing 3 legged pulley is the size I need?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-3-PI...776324&hash=item238a10a343:g:itMAAOSwz3lZeh3W

Before you fit that new cheap hub remove it's sensor and count the teeth of the reluctor ring through the hole(mark one with something and turn the bearing around while you count them) and if you find 55 instead of 60 dont fit it cos it will mix up the system and the vehice will be undriveabe due to the TC which will kick in unwanted. The market is invaded by 55 teeth hubs and better rule that out from the beginning

sierrafery said:

Before you fit that new cheap hub remove it's sensor and count the teeth of the reluctor ring through the hole(mark one with something and turn the bearing around while you count them) and if you find 55 instead of 60 dont fit it cos it will mix up the system and the vehice will be undriveabe due to the TC which will kick in unwanted. The market is invaded by 55 teeth hubs and better rule that out from the beginning

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That can really create some confusion. I suppose if you change all wheel hubs to 55 teeth you should be OK but why are they building them like that when the original specs says 60 teeth ? Would it have something to do with compensating for the increased velocity when bigger rims are installed ? I had a look at Optimal and they do manufacture both versions for front and rear so I think there's a technical reason for it and not just a cost saving issue.

No matter of the reasons(which i dont understand) while the original setup is for 60 teeth without doubt the important thing is to not mix 60 teeth hubs with 55 teeth ones.... though as long as all the 4 hubs are the same it might be ok even though the system was calibrated from factory for 60 teeth from the beginning... the fact that some owners are trying to make monster trucks fron theyr's D2s is not a factor IMO