3.9 playing silly buggers while hot

fett said:

Looks a bit rich, mine was too till I had it set up right, did you have your afm set up to 030?

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afm 030? Pardon my ignorance, what does the 030 mean?

What's wrong with this? Sounds pretty normal to me.

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that fact that when it drops to 750 its back to being choppy and nearly stalling, but if its still doing it after ive replaced a few bits i'll worry about it a bit more.
i think all in all shes not running too badly, its just that im comparing it to the auto box disco 300tdi we had which was a little better behaved, stuff like going from neutral into gear the revs would drop but it would still stay smooth and not threaten to stall, and same when stopping in gear.
also probably doesnt help that before that we had a jag, which was as smooth and quiet as a smooth quiet thing.
im possibly just being jumpy because ive heard so many bad things about what these engines do that im worrying too much about what is pretty much normal for any 20 year old engine.
anyway i got my hands on a timing light so i'll check and set the timing, replace plugs, leads, filters, and vac advance and hopefully all will be well.

AncientGeek said:

afm 030? Pardon my ignorance, what does the 030 mean?

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multimeter in the outside two pins of the afm should be 030 ohms (never sure of my decimal places lol)

If its not then turn the allen screw slowly till it is

fett said:

multimeter in the outside two pins of the afm should be 030 ohms (never sure of my decimal places lol)

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The Lucas/Hitachi maf? Does that set the CO trim? Mine does not have an allen but a screw slot behind the tamper proof inside the tube facing towards the windscreen. I thought you had to set that by voltage or is the 30 ohm a base setting?

maybe its volts I am no good with that stuff, i put a pen mark on my multimter so I know which setting and just uses that lol

I will get it out and have a look if you need to know????

fett said:

maybe its volts I am no good with that stuff, i put a pen mark on my multimter so I know which setting and just uses that lol

I will get it out and have a look if you need to know????

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The info I have indicates it should be between 1 and 1.5 volts on a non-lambda engine and 1.8 with lambdas. See how that compares to what you have.

OTOH mine was set 3.0 volts (030?) and I haven't changed it since some PO has chipped the ECU (and other mods) and I want to understand wtf is going on before I change anything.

i apologise in advance for this question, because you must all have answered it a million times, but what are good plugs and leads to buy?
ive had a bit of a hunt around the forum and ive NGK BPR6ES plugs mentioned a lot, but most of the topics seemed to be about gas converted engines.
however my boss who previously owned a 3.5 efi reckons i need to be using titanium tipped plugs at £12 a go to get the best from the engine...
are more expensive plugs really going to make a huge difference, or is it (as i suspect) just a waste of money?
and i couldnt find much about leads, other than magnecore are good but expensive.
where is best to buy this stuff from?

sorry for all the rookie questions, im know what its like to answer the same question for the millionth time =/

thanks,

Tom

only genuine landrover leads and those cheaper ngk plugs are fine!

Dingo croft is my favourite supplier!

DeadTom said:

thanks for the replies =) i shall have a poke around under the bonnet when i have a spare few hours and see what i can do.
also, im going to get me a haynes manual.

am i risking doing any real damage by using it before resolving these issues?

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i would not bother getting a haynes book waste of time and money

demitrious1973 said:

i would not bother getting a haynes book waste of time and money

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really? thats the first time ive ever heard anything bad said about haynes manuals, i always thought they were really good?

nah they suck, I just got me a genuine workshop manual form ebay for £30. its bit grubby but I like to have it on paper.

the original haynes manual of 15 years ago great no pile of poo! due to being sued great one idiots who can't read properly!
as for dile issues check base idle have the ecu fault read as it could be the tps

I kept sayin tps stu, but no one was listening lol

Hey what do I know lol

oh I picked up a genuine factory manual for the 72!

how do you check the tps? (is the tps the throttle position sensor?)

yeah , you need a gizmo like stus or there are some figures for a multimetre kev was bangin on about lol I am guessing he got them for haynes???

bloody HT lead came apart when i tried to remove it. just bought a new set from paddocks, but its another few days off the road =(

well shows they probably need a change which is good lol

i think our fett wants to be an apprentice for stu or kev.