2a noisy rad

jagmanjimbob · Feb 14, 2011

can anybody hepl me, i am new to landrovers and have got my first one, a 1971 2a 109",2.25 petrol, have one problem with it though, temp gauge goes to hot after running for a while, after the half way point the rad starts making a noise, the whole rad is stone cold apart from the top which get hot, the bottom hose is also very cold, i have fitted a new thermostat and its still the same, the noise stays even when the rad cap is off, as soon as i turn off the engine the noise goes right away, can anybody give me any advise

oxides · Feb 14, 2011

Sounds like the radiator is clogged - you could try taking off the bottom hose and using a hosepipe to backflush it or you could use Radflush - be prepared for any radiator weaknesses to start leaking, though.

jagmanjimbob · Feb 14, 2011

oxides said:
Sounds like the radiator is clogged - you could try taking off the bottom hose and using a hosepipe to backflush it or you could use Radflush - be prepared for any radiator weaknesses to start leaking, though.

thanks, i have had another look today and with the rad cap off it doesnt look like there is any movement in the coolant in the top of the rad, so i think to be safe i will fit a new water pump and a new rad, all the pipes and thermostat are new so i shouldnt have a problem after that, hopefuly anyway, thanks for the advice

nrgserv · Feb 14, 2011

out of interest, does it have an oil cooler on it?
(infront of rad)
and is it a whining/groaning noise?

tottot · Feb 15, 2011

Could be internal collaps of a hose,water pump not working,gone inside.

jagmanjimbob · Feb 15, 2011

nrgserv said:
out of interest, does it have an oil cooler on it?
(infront of rad)
and is it a whining/groaning noise?

it does have a oil cooler in front of the rad, i took the top and bottom hose off today and poured water through the rad, it came out the bottom as quick as i was pouring it in the top, nice clear water too, put it back together and it still gets hot but the rad stays cold,so i am thinking it is just down to the water pump now, and the noise is like an old boiler groaning away

nrgserv · Feb 15, 2011

ok, your groaning noise is oil being pushed thru the oil cooler.
as for your temp problem, is the sender wire attatched to the sender
on the left underside of the stat housing (right one), or the sender on the front right
of the cylinder head? (wrong one)

jagmanjimbob · Feb 16, 2011

nrgserv said:
ok, your groaning noise is oil being pushed thru the oil cooler.
as for your temp problem, is the sender wire attatched to the sender
on the left underside of the stat housing (right one), or the sender on the front right
of the cylinder head? (wrong one)

at first it was conected to to the wrong one, top of the head, it has an electric temp gauge but had a capillery sender, so i put a new elec sender in the left side of the head and the gauge works fine now, i am going to put a new water pump on on friday see if that helps, why does the oil cooler make a noise, can that be sorted, can i just clean it out, it looks to be just a steel pipe with cooling coils around it or do i have to replace it

nrgserv · Feb 17, 2011

jagmanjimbob said:
at first it was conected to to the wrong one, top of the head, it has an electric temp gauge but had a capillery sender, so i put a new elec sender in the left side of the head and the gauge works fine now, i am going to put a new water pump on on friday see if that helps, why does the oil cooler make a noise, can that be sorted, can i just clean it out, it looks to be just a steel pipe with cooling coils around it or do i have to replace it

forgive my drunken state, but you've confused me.
i have no idea where an electric capillary sender fits? (piccy please)
if the guage now works is it still reading hot?
if its ok, why are you changing the pump?

we never got to the bottom of the oil cooler noise (was a mates motor and he dont use it now, but still got it). he just lived with the noise.
what was the motor originally? common fitment on mod radio motors that did a lot of static running. civvy use, you could remove it but not sure where pipework connects and if you'd have to change anything else. would have to look at it.

jagmanjimbob · Feb 17, 2011

nrgserv said:
forgive my drunken state, but you've confused me.
i have no idea where an electric capillary sender fits? (piccy please)
if the guage now works is it still reading hot?
if its ok, why are you changing the pump?

we never got to the bottom of the oil cooler noise (was a mates motor and he dont use it now, but still got it). he just lived with the noise.
what was the motor originally? common fitment on mod radio motors that did a lot of static running. civvy use, you could remove it but not sure where pipework connects and if you'd have to change anything else. would have to look at it.

the gauge works fine but the engine still gets hot, and when i take the rad cap off there doesnt appear to be any movement in the water in the top of the rad, thats why i think it may be the water pump, i took the pump off and it looks ok but it is a little bit noisey, the oil pressure is ok so i will live with the cooler noise,

dirtyrhino · Feb 17, 2011

if yer not seeing movement in the rad, then the thermostat probably isn't open......which would suggest it's rated incorrectly...mounted incorrectly.....or it's been wedged closed by some ****e in the system....

Pull the stat and try it after that temporarily - it'll be cheaper to investigate this 1st than go ripping out the pump.
Pumps are a fixed shaft with an impeller, so if it's fubard, you'd more than likey know it...by the scraming noise as the shaft tears itself apart, or the pulley slowly winds itself out of the housing....

Where does the pipework for the oil cooler go BTW ? It should go into a sarni block between the oil filter on the block...

jagmanjimbob · Feb 18, 2011

dirtyrhino said:
if yer not seeing movement in the rad, then the thermostat probably isn't open......which would suggest it's rated incorrectly...mounted incorrectly.....or it's been wedged closed by some ****e in the system....

Pull the stat and try it after that temporarily - it'll be cheaper to investigate this 1st than go ripping out the pump.
Pumps are a fixed shaft with an impeller, so if it's fubard, you'd more than likey know it...by the scraming noise as the shaft tears itself apart, or the pulley slowly winds itself out of the housing....

Where does the pipework for the oil cooler go BTW ? It should go into a sarni block between the oil filter on the block...

thanks for the advice, i have removed the stat and now there is a good frow through the rad and no overheating, it is a brand new stat but must be the wrong one, the housing looks like it should take a fairly thick mounted stat rather than a convention looking one if that makes sence, i got it from land rover and they said it was correct but i had to make packer to make it sit in the housing, as far as the oil cooler goes it has a sanswich plate between the engine block and the filter housing with one pipe coming off it to the cooler then the return pipe off the cooler goes to the sump pan, so i should just be able to get short bolts for the filter housing and remove the sandwich plate and block the sump off, so hopefuly that will be both my problems sorted, cheers

2a noisy rad

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