Series 3 24v fuel gauge problem

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55FM58

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Posts
48
Location
Dagenham, Essex
And the next on the list of elektrikery things to solve is - the fuel gauge!!
On mine (ex-Mil 24v FFR) now the fuel gauge is reading maximum up deflection (i.e. full) all the time. Even when I know the tank in question is empty....

This is a 24v twin tank set up so there is no voltage regulator involved. Basically there is:
A green live 24v feed from the fuse box to the gauge.
A green/black connection from the gauge to the two micro switches on the change-over tap.
Green/black connections from the other side of the micro switches to the tank senders.

So far I have:
Swapped out the fuel gauge itself for a known good one - no change.
Checked the resistance from the senders - it varies as expected as the float is raised and lowered.
Tried grounding the senders to seperate earths - no change.
Tried connecting the gauge direct to a sender - no change

Really odd thing is if I disconnect the green/black connection from the back of the gauge thus breaking the circuit the gauge still read full whereas I expected no movement as no completed circuit.
This all started happening after I removed the multi-cluster, took out the two capillary temp gauges and the fuel gauge and replaced the bezel and glass, - can't see how that would affect anything but I mention it just in case....

Anyone come across this before and resolved it??
 
Run a temporary wire from sender direct to gauge connection thus eliminating change over switches and see what happens .
 
And the next on the list of elektrikery things to solve is - the fuel gauge!!
On mine (ex-Mil 24v FFR) now the fuel gauge is reading maximum up deflection (i.e. full) all the time. Even when I know the tank in question is empty....

This is a 24v twin tank set up so there is no voltage regulator involved. Basically there is:
A green live 24v feed from the fuse box to the gauge.
A green/black connection from the gauge to the two micro switches on the change-over tap.
Green/black connections from the other side of the micro switches to the tank senders.

So far I have:
Swapped out the fuel gauge itself for a known good one - no change.
Checked the resistance from the senders - it varies as expected as the float is raised and lowered.
Tried grounding the senders to seperate earths - no change.
Tried connecting the gauge direct to a sender - no change

Really odd thing is if I disconnect the green/black connection from the back of the gauge thus breaking the circuit the gauge still read full whereas I expected no movement as no completed circuit.
This all started happening after I removed the multi-cluster, took out the two capillary temp gauges and the fuel gauge and replaced the bezel and glass, - can't see how that would affect anything but I mention it just in case....

Anyone come across this before and resolved it??
I have exactly the same problem :( so im watching this thread closely :D
 
And the next on the list of elektrikery things to solve is - the fuel gauge!!
On mine (ex-Mil 24v FFR) now the fuel gauge is reading maximum up deflection (i.e. full) all the time. Even when I know the tank in question is empty....

This is a 24v twin tank set up so there is no voltage regulator involved. Basically there is:
A green live 24v feed from the fuse box to the gauge.
A green/black connection from the gauge to the two micro switches on the change-over tap.
Green/black connections from the other side of the micro switches to the tank senders.


Really odd thing is if I disconnect the green/black connection from the back of the gauge thus breaking the circuit the gauge still read full whereas I expected no movement as no completed circuit.

My 24V FFR gauge has stopped working since I took out the cluster, and I've been puzzling over this same problem.

It looks like the gauge needs an earth return through the metal body of the gauge and instrument cluster. This forms a circuit from ignition +ve 24V through the gauge and back to -ve ground. This makes the gauge read maximum.

Connecting the sender wire to the gauge makes the needle read downwards from full towards empty as the sender gradually connects to -ve ground via it's reducing resistance as the tank empties.

I've had mine on the bench with 24V +ve connected to the 'B' gauge terminal, -ve ground connected connected to the gauge metal case, which reads 'full', then connecting a wire from 'T' terminal to -ve ground snaps it to 'empty'. Putting a resistor (220 ohms) that I had handy in between the 'T' terminal and -ve made the gauge read almost full again, as it's simulating a sender being connected.

I suspect my problem is the gauge case is not properly connected to chassis/battery -ve, so it's always reading empty.

This is a totally different gauge to a standard 12V Land Rover that works with a small heating element and a bi-metallic needle movement.
 
Have to say it is standard to earth (ground ) The instrument gauges as they rely on the earth return to illuminate them so
you have solved your own problem my series 1 requires the gauge to be earthed ,the gauges supply is a green and a green/black
from the float switch on one side and a green/yellow for the fuel warning light .on a series 2 the colour change to the fuel warning lamp to green/blue and both have a earth attached to the tank
GAUGE REMOVAL.jpg
 
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