P
Pete S
Guest
"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news
[email protected]...> Richard,
> Many thanks for this. I will check these things out at the weekend
> and see what noises I can hear.
>
> As for the compression test - havent done this yet. What should would
> be an acceptable compression? I know that it is more important to
> have 4 equal'ish pots but what value would you expect them to be?
>
> Thanks
> Jon
>
> On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 08:10:27 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>In message <[email protected]>
>> Jon <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> OK, replaced the sender last night with new (genuine) one.
>>>
>>> Exactly the same temperature readings...bugger!
>>>
>>> Some nice chap on the LRO Forum also confirmed that the voltage to the
>>> sender should be between about 4.5V - fine there then.
>>>
>>> That leaves me with 2 options:-
>>> 1. Gauge is faulty (doubt that)
>>> 2. Engine is actually running hot
>>>
>>> I now suspect that my engine is running a bit too hot...Question is
>>> what would cause that?
>>>
>>> I did notice last night that when hot (never noticed it when cold) I
>>> get a bit of air/oil vapour blowing out from under the oil filler cap.
>>> I have known for some time that the oil breather that feeds to the air
>>> filter puffs oily vapour out, but isnt that what its supposed to do?
>>>
>>> What would cause pressure in the rocker box, enough to blow through
>>> the filler (a breather blocked somewhere), and would this cause it to
>>> run hot??
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Jon
>>>
>>
>>Run the engine with the oil filler cap off - does it "chuff" (sounds
>>a bit like a subdued pop-pop)? Again, run the engine with the dipstick
>>removed (at idle!) - is there a chuffing though there? Finally, is the
>>air filter oily (i.e. more than just a little bit on the lower front
>>end of the filter? If any/all of the above are present, then the head
>>gasket is suspect. If there is only slight evidence of the above then
>>get a compression test done (don't know if you have already done
>>that) - you should be looking for one or two cylinders being a lower
>>than the others - Nos. 3 and 4 are the usual culprits on 200Tdi's.
>>
>>If the above are all clear, then a cracked head would be the next
>>thing to investigate.
>>
>>Richard
>>
>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, 5 Jul 2005 20:38:49 +0000 (UTC), Jon
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> >Sorry, another longish post but help and advice is needed!
>>> >
>>> >Thought Id check out my electrics tonight before replacing the sender
>>> >unit.
>>> >
>>> >When sender unit is unplugged and wire shorted to earth, guage shoots
>>> >over to beyond the red (as it should).
>>> >
>>> >Does anyone know what voltage I should have at the Water Temperature
>>> >Sender Unit?? 12V or 5V??? I have 5V, give or take a bit...
>>> >
>>> >12V gets fed into the temperature gauge and 5V comes out and goes to
>>> >the sender unit.
>>> >
>>> >However, I have 2 black wires (apparently to earth) connected together
>>> >in 1 bango type connector which is attached to the holding / fixing
>>> >screw on the back of the temp gauge. If I remove this I get 12V out
>>> >of the temp gauge and 12V to the sender unit.
>>> >
>>> >When 12V goes through the sender unit the gauge reads (with a cool
>>> >engine) somewhere in the red - clearly incorrect.
>>> >
>>> >I have checked the Haynes manual and cant see any mention of these
>>> >black wires connected to the gauge - Are they supposed to be there?
>>> >Coincidently there is the same arrangement to the rear of the fuel
>>> >gauge?
>>> >
>>> >I have also removed the gauge to check continuity through the +12V to
>>> >the holding screw and there is a path through - Is this correct as I
>>> >was expecting the screw to be isolated from the gauge body.
>>> >
>>> >Thanks again for advice & pointers.
>>> >Jon
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 13:58:15 +0100, Austin Shackles
>>> ><[email protected]> wrote:
>>> >
>>> >>On or around Mon, 4 Jul 2005 11:32:16 +0000 (UTC), Jon
>>> >><[email protected]>
>>> >>enlightened us thusly:
>>> >>
>>> >>>At what temperature do these things begin to show signs or
>>> >>>resistance?
>>> >>
>>> >>fecking hot. Basically, it's only going to spin up under severe
>>> >>provocation. They all start off stiff when cold, they should then go
>>> >>free
>>> >>or nearly-free once run for about 30 seconds or so at moderate engine
>>> >>speeds. At 80 mph, it's unlikely to 'cos there's lots of airflow
>>> >>anyway.
>>> >>
>>> >>The only time I've had one spin up again in earnest was when tuning an
>>> >>LPG
>>> >>system, running at 3000 rpm for several minutes with the vehicle
>>> >>stationary.
>>> >>
>>> >>>This whole issue has come about because the gauge reads about 1
>>> >>>needle
>>> >>>width off the end of the white on the gauge at 60-70mph - But never
>>> >>>goes into the red, even at 80mph, and it never boils.
>>> >>>
>>> >>>I have had a new (re-cored) rad, new thermostat and new viscous fan.
>>> >>>I dont believe the head gasket has failed either (no visible signs in
>>> >>>oil or water or at the exhause).
>>> >>
>>> >>replace the sender unit on the engine.
>>>
>
Do you go off road in the Landy? If so check that your rad is not choked
with dust, mud or sand. My 300TDi Disco overheated albeit only when towing
up long hills. I got a piece of copper pipe, crushed the end and bent it at
rightangles and attached a water hose to it and squirted it between the rad
and A/C condenser, you should have seen all the sand etc that came out. It
runs alot cooler now.
Peter.
