200tdi disco died whilst driving

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Munka

Munka

Active Member
Posts
143
Location
Peterborough
Hi all hoping someone can help, I’ve got a 93 disco 1 200tdi and on a long journey it just died at some traffic lights, it had been running beautiful for 2 hours doing 70mph, and as I said slowing down from 70 to 0 coming to some traffic lights it just died, no spluttering nothing just straight dead, it turns over but won’t fire, I’ve checked the lift pump and thats fine I’ve got fuel goin to the injection pump but nothing coming out of it, I’ve also checked the shut off solenoid which has a 12v feed and is clicking so I know that’s working, I’m fairly sure it’s the injection pump but do they just die like that?

Thanks for any help
 
Munka said:
Hi all hoping someone can help, I’ve got a 93 disco 1 200tdi and on a long journey it just died at some traffic lights, it had been running beautiful for 2 hours doing 70mph, and as I said slowing down from 70 to 0 coming to some traffic lights it just died, no spluttering nothing just straight dead, it turns over but won’t fire, I’ve checked the lift pump and thats fine I’ve got fuel goin to the injection pump but nothing coming out of it, I’ve also checked the shut off solenoid which has a 12v feed and is clicking so I know that’s working, I’m fairly sure it’s the injection pump but do they just die like that?

Thanks for any help
Click to expand...

Have you spun it over with the injector unions off? These VE pumps don't airlock easy but they can.

Have you checked the small gauze on the pump feed?

If it is the pump just run it in to your local diesel specialist and they should be able to swap it over or you may need to wait a couple days for it to be rebuilt.
 
just because the solenoid is clicking does not mean its working, large screwdriver used as a chisel and a hammer tap the switch around chuck the guts away and refit it, you will of course have to stall it to stop it but it will get you home no worries.
 
Hi, Yes I’ve spun it over with the injector unions off and nothing’s coming out, I’ve had the feed pipe off at the pump and it’s definately getting fuel, I’ve not found a gauze though.

I’m not with the car now but tomorrow I’ll pull the solenoid off and take the inners out just incase,

And no I’ve not checked the rockers are moving, I hadn’t thought about the timing belt snapping, I’ll check that one tomorrow as well.

Thanks for your help guys
 
Pull that solenoid out and check it properly.
There is very little it can be if its not getting fuel to injectors but you are getting fuel to the injector pump.
No misfires, coughing or spluttering beforehand doesn't sound like the injection pump but I suppose if it was coping with higher revs it could simply not maintain a pressure at lower revs if worn out. Solenoid first then pump.
 
If it is timing belt, dont panic too much. When my 300 died 250 miles from home i managed to do it with borrowed tools, and £80 in parts. Fortunately i had somewhere to stay for a few days, but its not the engine write-off that is more common in other cars.
 
Ok so I checked to see if the rockers were moving and nothing, so I’ve pulled the cover and rocker shaft off, the shaft and rockers all look good so I took the pushrods out and 4 of them are bent not hugely bent but still bent, is there a way to check the valves without taking the head off, or is it a head off job anyway to check everything’s ok?,

Thanks for your help
 
Do the belt, and it will probably be fine.

Obviously something has to give, and, if the pushrods are all straight, then it would have to be somewhere else, but from my pretty small sample pool, I don't personally know anyone who's valves failed.

I'd suggest doing the belt, timing it up, and just turning it over by hand (ie ratchet, not starter) and seeing what happenes.
 
I know a man (well two now!) who had 200 belt failure and he had the sameas you bent push rods, new belt and 4 rods and away it went.
When was the belt last changed?
 
Mick Guilbert said:
If you are going to have to do the timing belt which it sounds as though you are i would do all belts and water pump at the same time, I have a 300TDI and i think they are similar. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I always think its foolish to do "extras" whilst a system is in an error state, unless, of course, its more time economical to service parts whilst youre in there,
I dont have a 200, but a 300, and, certainly on the 300, the water pump, whilst in the same general area, is entirely independent of the OPs current issues, and there's no advantage to him doing it now, rather than at any other stage.

Providing youre not in the habit of whacking everything surrounding the job with the end of spanners, theres no need to even take the rad out of the 300tdi disco to do the cam belt. Again, i dont have a 200, so i accept things may be different for them.

I just think that meddling with too many things at the same time is a recipe for irritation.
 
julianf said:
I always think its foolish to do "extras" whilst a system is in an error state, unless, of course, its more time economical to service parts whilst youre in there,
I dont have a 200, but a 300, and, certainly on the 300, the water pump, whilst in the same general area, is entirely independent of the OPs current issues, and there's no advantage to him doing it now, rather than at any other stage.

Providing youre not in the habit of whacking everything surrounding the job with the end of spanners, theres no need to even take the rad out of the 300tdi disco to do the cam belt. Again, i dont have a 200, so i accept things may be different for them.

I just think that meddling with too many things at the same time is a recipe for irritation.
Click to expand...

300Tdi is nothing like the 200Tdi when it comes to the timing belt.

On a 200 you have to pull the whole front of the timing chest off and that includes the water pump and the gallery that runs right through the timing chest.

I advocate pulling the whole chest off an unknown engine and doing the crank and cam seals through the back and replacing the water gallery gasket too, it's a proper pain in the hole when that goes about a month after you've done a timing belt.

Always perform preventative maintenance, never do the minimum, it might be your time but it is also an irritation when you could have just spent another few quid while you were in there and allowed an extra hour for the work.
 
Well, there you go - like i say, i dont know the 200 like i do the 300.

I still stand by what i said though - if there is an error, messing with unrelated systems at the same time as fixing the error is foolhardy, unless there are significant gains to doing so - which you both say is the case with the 200 water pump.

But again, if there is no gain to other works, i always want to fix the problem before messing with an unrelated system. Troubleshooting errors is not the same as general service work.
 
julianf said:
Well, there you go - like i say, i dont know the 200 like i do the 300.

I still stand by what i said though - if there is an error, messing with unrelated systems at the same time as fixing the error is foolhardy, unless there are significant gains to doing so - which you both say is the case with the 200 water pump.

But again, if there is no gain to other works, i always want to fix the problem before messing with an unrelated system. Troubleshooting errors is not the same as general service work.
Click to expand...

That's the reason why the Army didn't like them, you have to dismantle the cooling system when you do the timing belt, that was the upgrade with the 300, it separated the timing case and coolant system.

I understand your theory but with the 200 it doesn't hold water as you dismantle the cooling system to do the belt hence the insistence of replacing the coolant parts whilst it is all apart.
 
julianf said:
Well, there you go - like i say, i dont know the 200 like i do the 300.

I still stand by what i said though - if there is an error, messing with unrelated systems at the same time as fixing the error is foolhardy, unless there are significant gains to doing so - which you both say is the case with the 200 water pump.

But again, if there is no gain to other works, i always want to fix the problem before messing with an unrelated system. Troubleshooting errors is not the same as general service work.
Click to expand...


Just to confuse matters even more the disco and defender 200 have totally different timing chests/water pumps and cambelt set ups, but still use the same cambelt!

I often have the same argument at work when people try and change more than one item at a time to try and fix something, then I say but if it fixes it how do you know what actually fixed the fault? its the blank looks I get that makes me chuckle.

Trying to explain yesterday that just because the computer say the nox is not being reduced doesnt mean the nox sensors are duff its the scr system that is playing up, because thinking logically the two nox sensors must be working as they can tell theres no difference pre and post cat ergo the sensors are in fact just fine!
 
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