2005 freelander window calibration

Hello / i replace my battery on my freelander and now my rear window will not calibrate i have try the calibration procedures but no luck my ccu is making a noise and the window goes down can not keep the window up i have repeated the calibration but no luck.Is my ccu bad or do i have to take the back panel out o fix .
thank you
jorge

Disconnect battery again and re try procedure

I'm having the above issue and I have tried to above serval times.

I've had to take the fuse out so i can use the car.
does anyone else have any more suggestions?


This happened when I replaced the battery a week ago. tried all sorts in the last week.

tdougan said:

I'm having the above issue and I have tried to above serval times.

I've had to take the fuse out so i can use the car.
does anyone else have any more suggestions?


This happened when I replaced the battery a week ago. tried all sorts in the last week.

Click to expand...

On the two door with the soft top option there is a switch that tells the difference tween soft top or hard top if this isnt made it can alter window up down. . . . . .

tdougan said:

I'm having the above issue and I have tried to above serval times.

I've had to take the fuse out so i can use the car.
does anyone else have any more suggestions?


This happened when I replaced the battery a week ago. tried all sorts in the last week.

Click to expand...

Does your ccu makes a noise when the window goes down.

Yeah - It does make a beeping noise.

ming said:

On the two door with the soft top option there is a switch that tells the difference tween soft top or hard top if this isnt made it can alter window up down. . . . . .

Click to expand...

I'd read this tip, I took the hard top roof off and re fitted it, I cant seem to see a switch? It also seems unlikly this is the case as it only happened after fitting a new battery.

please help.

FYI my freelander is a 2005 model too.

I have just about given up hope!

Yesterday I disarmed the alarm, disconnected the battery for 24 hours in my garage.
popped the battery back on and zziiip down the went the rear window, I put the key in turned it one click up went the window beeped three times and went back down.

i tried holding the buttom for 10 seconds and I get nothing!

IF i put the key in the rear door lock and hold it the window will go up! so the motor and cable seem fine.

if no one else has any idea i'm going to have to put it in a garage this week!

any advice would we be excellent.

Tony

It sometimes takes mine up to 20 tries to get the window to stay up.Keep the engine running or you will drain the battery.It might just be coincidence but it seems to go up better after a few miles driving.

with the window down, gently push down on glass pushing it into door cavity,(takes up slack on cables) then try new calibration, also make sure there is nothing in the rubber restricting the glass when raised.

I tried the lowering it and raising it 20-30 times yesterday - that didnt work.

I will try your suggestion soon freelance, thanks

Here is the solution I found on another site combined with info from this site.
It's not easy. In reality it takes about 30 minutes.

Remove the inside cover off the rear door. There are 4 screws on the bottom of the panel. Everything else is held on with clips. Then remove the weird dust cover membrane. It tears easy so be careful. When the window is down you will notice it is stopped on a wire harness. The bottom of the glass is pushing down on the wires. That is the problem. When the alarm was activated and the battery was disconnected either from going dead or replacement the window control lost its mind and you must find it.

While I had the door opened I pushed the latch inside the rear door with the key until it clicked. This is the latch that actually holds the door closed. You might have to hold it there with your finger.

Push the lock button on the remote until the doors lock. I put the key in the outside of the door and turned to the right and the window will roll up and stay there. If the latch is not pused in fully the window wont roll up. If you push unlock on the remote it will roll down so don’t do that. DO NOT HAVE ANY FINGERS INSIDE THE DOOR THE WINDOW WONT STOP AND YOU MIGHT LOSE A FINGER!

Remember the wire clips that the window was resting on? Well you will have to break them. There are 3 plastic clips holding the wires to the metal inside the door. I taped the wires back.

When you push unlock on the remote the widow will go down to the bottom of the door. It looks scary and sounds worse. DO NOT HAVE ANY FINGERS INSIDE THE DOOR THE WINDOW WONT STOP AND YOU MIGHT LOSE A FINGER!

I moved the dust membrane and closed the rear door.

I disconnected the negative battery terminal and waited 10 seconds. i reconnected the battery and turned the ignition to on. I pushed the button and held it to roll the window up. When I let off it didn’t go BEEP BEEP BEEP and go down so it was fixed.

I went to the back door and hit the open and it went down 3/4 inch just as it should.
Problem solved.

The issue is the window needs to go fully down before it can set the up stop point.
What a horrible thing to find out after you replace the battery. I wasted 2 hours of my life that I will never get back.

Hi, I have just bought myself a 2003 Freelander "with issues" as the dealer put it. I got it at a sensible price. Just knew I would end up getting dirty trying to fix it.

One of the problems was the rear window was "fixed" in the slightly down position to allow the door to open and close by just clearing the weather seal at the top.

This was fine but it meant I couldn't use the window wiper or heater as the glass had to be fully up to activate them.

I found the fuse was removed and the plug to the motor disconnected. Put them back in and could drive the window up and down, but it wouldn't stay up, just beeping when it got to the top. This proved the cables/motor were ok so searched on here for calibration.

Followed all the steps above many times including removing the wire clips as it was trapping the wires at the bottom but still it wouldn't calibrate. Then tried it with the engine running and it calibrated first time from the console switch. Success. I don't remember seeing anyone else saying try it with the engine running, so if you're not having any luck, give it a go.

Just a thought, but when I replaced my Freelander battery I had to resynchronise the alarm fob first, it may or it may not help, but like I say its just a thought and something I had to do first.

The following text is from a workshop manual:

Upon reconnection of the battery, the tailgate glass mechanism may need to be recalibrated. If the battery was disconnected (or discharged) with the alarm armed, reconnect the battery and disarm the alarm. The tailgate glass will now lower fully (this will happen automatically if the alarm was not armed). Fully raise the tailgate glass to recalibrate the mechanism. If the glass is not fully raised, an error 'beep' will sound. If the alarm handset fails to lock, or unlock the door locks, it may be that the handset require resynchronisation by operating the button at least five times in quick succession, in close proximity to the vehicle.

Rear window is down somehowwent down when battery went flat we have tried all of the above no luck please help with ideas when window is in down position already and we need to get it up..

Susand said:

Rear window is down somehowwent down when battery went flat we have tried all of the above no luck please help with ideas when window is in down position already and we need to get it up..

Click to expand...

Try putting the window up using the key in the rear door lock

Susand said:

Rear window is down somehowwent down when battery went flat we have tried all of the above no luck please help with ideas when window is in down position already and we need to get it up..

Click to expand...

It's not uncommon for the cables to fail, when the window goes down more than normally needed to open the rear door. Do you hear any noise from the motor or cables crunching?

Nodge68 said:

It's not uncommon for the cables to fail, when the window goes down more than normally needed to open the rear door. Do you hear any noise from the motor or cables crunching?

Click to expand...

There is a grinding noise and the window is down as far as it could possibly go ..It's in mechanics now getting some work done not related to window it's the most frustrating vehicle ever..

td4van said:

Try putting the window up using the key in the rear door lock

Click to expand...

Tried that one too