Disco 2 2004 TD Oil light

sierrafery said:

wiring or switch issues ar quite common in this particular area, more common than oil pressure issues so that should have been the logical move hence my first reply

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Mate, nobody is doubting the logicality of the way you think, you are more logical than I am. I am just old school and in the old days oil pressure could be all sorts of things, The first oil pressure issue I sorted out was a worn ball bearing inside the oil pressure switch in an Opel Manta A series. So electro-mechanical I'd assume.
Also back in the day we had oil pressure gauges, even in my old Minis! Which were illuminating as they showed you the difference between hot oil pressure and cold oil pressure.
So please don't take offence. I was only saying that i too would have done the wrong thing!

I did go on to say that i was going to start thinking more like this, i.e. electrically, than I have in the past.
The OP said his oil light didn't come on at start up, but because the oil would be thicker then, that was false logic too.
BUT as his wire was shorting out, it wasn't the switch it was the wiring which had worn through. So a new switch would not have sorted it unless he saw the wiring fault when replacing it.
I think it is a shame that so many faults on LR's seem to be down to cr@p wiring, i.e. insufficient insulation, poor positioning etc.
The famous one with the P clip on top of the transfer box being a case in point.
I spent quite a while under the bonnet insulating and repositioning pipes and bits of loom which the factory fitting would have allowed to wear through. This after a pipe from the reservoir for power steering fluid started to leak where it had rubbed against something, and the pipe that had rubbed through was metal too.
I wouldn't have been able to see them never mind access them to fix them if it wasn't for the inspection hatches underneath the wheel arches.

I thought i was being really good in dropping the sump off and giving everything a good clean. I wouldn't have noticed the wire has the exhaust and everything not been off too, so I take some comfort in that.

Small leak now in the sump, so i think I will have to gently slack and re-tighten the sump bolts if it doesn't stop in the next day or so.

Either I did not tighten the bolts up tight enough, or too tight, or the gasket was postioned badly or everything, cause it's just urinating oil from underneath.

I hate myself

NiallRussell said:

Either I did not tighten the bolts up tight enough, or too tight, or the gasket was postioned badly or everything, cause it's just urinating oil from underneath.

I hate myself

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Tis said that if you tighten up sump bolts too much on some cars, you distort the edge of it and then, well as you know, black urine ensues.
Sadly, little cure other than to take the feckin thing off again and put a straight edge over it all to see if you can see the distortion. Then dress it out and start again.
Did you use a torque wrench and did you follow the pattern of tightening up like wot you iz supposed to?

Stanleysteamer said:

Tis said that if you tighten up sump bolts too much on some cars, you distort the edge of it and then, well as you know, black urine ensues.
Sadly, little cure other than to take the feckin thing off again and put a straight edge over it all to see if you can see the distortion. Then dress it out and start again.
Did you use a torque wrench and did you follow the pattern of tightening up like wot you iz supposed to?

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yup torqued correctly and in order. I will try to ease them all off and nip them up again, and if that doesn't work - pay someone to sort out my mess.

NiallRussell said:

Either I did not tighten the bolts up tight enough, or too tight, or the gasket was postioned badly or everything, cause it's just urinating oil from underneath.

I hate myself

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Did you use genuine gasket? if you fitted some cheap aftermarket dont expect too much from it

sierrafery said:

Did you use genuine gasket? if you fitted some cheap aftermarket dont expect too much from it

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well... wasn't LR but was not cheap at all

I think we have to assume it is distorted in some way.
Once you have got it off, and clean, see if you can put it on a flat sheet of glass and look it all over to see that it is touching absolutely everywhere. If not then you have gaps that need sorting out. Overtightening can distort the holes where the bolts go through, etc etc.

Did you use Hilosil ?

NiallRussell said:

Either I did not tighten the bolts up tight enough, or too tight, or the gasket was postioned badly or everything, cause it's just urinating oil from underneath.

I hate myself

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You could have easily disturbed the gasket during install. I personally found it impossible to do it on my own without a lift in the short time interval allowed by the sealant. Those locating dowels on the gasket proved to be a nightmare to keep them properly aligned with the block, especially the 2 at the rear, which you cannot visually inspect. The only way I could do it is by applying the sealant in the designated areas and installing the gasket first, with the sealant and 4 zip ties holding it in place. Then I installed the sump, with all the bolts very slightly tightened and the zip ties removed. After that, it was just a matter of torqueing it up in the correct sequence and allowing 24 hours for the sealant to fully cure before filling it with oil.

NPG said:

You could have easily disturbed the gasket during install. I personally found it impossible to do it on my own without a lift in the short time interval allowed by the sealant. Those locating dowels on the gasket proved to be a nightmare to keep them properly aligned with the block, especially the 2 at the rear, which you cannot visually inspect. The only way I could do it is by applying the sealant in the designated areas and installing the gasket first, with the sealant and 4 zip ties holding it in place. Then I installed the sump, with all the bolts very slightly tightened and the zip ties removed. After that, it was just a matter of torqueing it up in the correct sequence and allowing 24 hours for the sealant to fully cure before filling it with oil.

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Sounds a very good way of doing it.
I despaired of ever getting the new gasket to fit on when doing a filter change ion my autobox.
Had to resort to using the old one.
Luckily it held and didn't leak at all.
Why the feck do they make what used to be such an easy operation so feckin difficult?
Can't see the need myself.

All sorted now. Embarrassed to say the garage said they there was a washer between the gasket and the bottom of the engine. Now idea where that came from, but the bolt wen through it. So maybe the metal washer that sits inside the gasket was stuck to the underside of the engine when i removed the sump. i cleaned the surface, but clearly i did a bad job. Lesson learnt.

don't matter, lesson learned and job now done!