2001 P38 diesel new radiator

Rad just blown tonight, has anyone got any updates on the Aluminium option how they are working out?

Just looking on fleabay and the ones available in this country all seem to say up to 1999 or something only I thought they were all the same except for the oil cooler bit which can be left if not needed? Mines 2001 Auto with separate cooler.

Third rad over ten years over 2 P38's so average i guess.

vtwin said:

Rad just blown tonight, has anyone got any updates on the Aluminium option how they are working out?

Just looking on fleabay and the ones available in this country all seem to say up to 1999 or something only I thought they were all the same except for the oil cooler bit which can be left if not needed? Mines 2001 Auto with separate cooler.

Third rad over ten years over 2 P38's so average i guess.

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Late cars have a different RAD, I think you need to measure it. Standard Nissens RADS are OK.

Datatek said:

Late cars have a different RAD, I think you need to measure it. Standard Nissens RADS are OK.

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I got a new NISSENS rad for my 2000 4.6 Thor Vogue. No hesitation in recommending you purchase one. Only cost £80 odd squids too.

I'd go for the nissens as well.
I've tried a rad from a 2000my in my 1999my and ô problems there.
I have an all aluminum rad and it was built by drunken Chinese people and sold by direnza as a top notch abortion... So watch out for some of those all aluminum ones!!!

Mark Piercy said:

I'd go for the nissens as well.
I've tried a rad from a 2000my in my 1999my and ô problems there.
I have an all aluminum rad and it was built by drunken Chinese people and sold by direnza as a top notch abortion... So watch out for some of those all aluminum ones!!!

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Decided to go for the Nissen rad as voted the best bet, picked it up today, made in Denmark at least not chinese.
Havent looked under the car since October Mot time and was disappointed to see so much oil in the turbo air pipes so while the rad is out i will check the turbo wear but I suspect its blow by, will clean the cooler out. Bought a new steel impeller water pump as well to replace the plastic one I fitted a few years back.
Steering box looks like its leaking a bit but the oil level still right on the mark.

Blow by is normal. Cleaned my intercooler out last week only second time I’ve had to do it. Makes noticeable difference. Was suprised while in there that my cheap radiator I fitted in 2018/9 still looks new. Can’t rememer the make is same type blew up on Mark with plastic top. Nissens is better but I didn’t do water pump same time, when that blew up took rad with it that plus stat you’ll be sorted for long run. Bleeding can be bit of ba***d but only sometimes, normally it’s a doddle

Rad out today, cleaned up the oil and crap, inter cooler off and soaking, checked the engine oil cooler connections are tight, took all the turbo pipes off to clean the oil out, turbo looks fine with very little play.
Steering box has fresh oil drips so I think its had it, I have one on the old car so might give it a go changing it while I can get to it.

Steering box is silly money- thousands! Mine leaked when I had the vehicle. Garage didn’t want to touch it for some reason? No creaks or grinding when turning wheel so was just case of taking the leaky bits off clean them up, anneal washers and refit. Never played up since. To this day looks like new unit but it’s only from when I cleaned the leaks

RangeRoller dt said:

Blow by is normal. Cleaned my intercooler out last week only second time I’ve had to do it. Makes noticeable difference. Was suprised while in there that my cheap radiator I fitted in 2018/9 still looks new. Can’t rememer the make is same type blew up on Mark with plastic top. Nissens is better but I didn’t do water pump same time, when that blew up took rad with it that plus stat you’ll be sorted for long run. Bleeding can be bit of ba***d but only sometimes, normally it’s a doddle

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Make very sure that whatever you used to clean the intercooler is fully dried out or the engine will rev it's nuts off

vtwin said:

Rad out today, cleaned up the oil and crap, inter cooler off and soaking, checked the engine oil cooler connections are tight, took all the turbo pipes off to clean the oil out, turbo looks fine with very little play.
Steering box has fresh oil drips so I think its had it, I have one on the old car so might give it a go changing it while I can get to it.

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They're about 4 times heavier than they look. Not done a 38 but did my 110 when I was stripping it down for a chassis replacement and it landed on my head, still got the dent in me head I think

Flossie said:

They're about 4 times heavier than they look. Not done a 38 but did my 110 when I was stripping it down for a chassis replacement and it landed on my head, still got the dent in me head I think

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Did it knock any sense into you "Flossie"?

Jon Dor said:

Did it knock any sense into you "Flossie"?

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. Yes, well....I've got more sense now than to lay with my head directly under a landy steering box and expecting to be able to gently lower it down with one hand whilst removing the last bolt holding it to the chassis with my other hand.

Datatek said:

Make very sure that whatever you used to clean the intercooler is fully dried out or the engine will rev it's nuts off

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Yes I aired it out thoroughly. Not sure where to get acetone so used petrol which evaporated easily. Couple little leaks sealed up was good shout - seems quieter and I don’t have to rev so much coming up the mountain. Throttle response is back not just foot down or foot off

Your right its heavier than it looks! Took the wing liner off and took it out that way, the mudflap fell apart they are a rip off price. Trying to get the steering column shaft back on and managed to snap the plastic bracket that holds the plastic air inlet pipe over the valve cover, sh*ze more cost. Hopefully get some time at the weekend to finish it.

All done and seems ok, it lives to hang in there till next time.