2000 P38 4.6 HSE

marjon said:

Sounds like the transfer box hasn't gone back to high and is in neutral, They do stick if not used.

Try functioning it a few times to see if it will shift back into low or high and give you drive.

J

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marjon said:

Sounds like the transfer box hasn't gone back to high and is in neutral, They do stick if not used.

Try functioning it a few times to see if it will shift back into low or high and give you drive.

J

Click to expand...

marjon said:

Sounds like the transfer box hasn't gone back to high and is in neutral, They do stick if not used.

Try functioning it a few times to see if it will shift back into low or high and give you drive.


Success I probed Pin 7 &8 on the ratio change motor and although it tried to work it sounded horrendous. I removed it stripped it down and found the magnet bonded to the motor casing had broken off. So I turned the spindle it connects to manually and problem solved. Just need to pick a new motor up now. Thanks for info as always

Click to expand...

marjon said:

Sounds like the transfer box hasn't gone back to high and is in neutral, They do stick if not used.

Try functioning it a few times to see if it will shift back into low or high and give you drive.


Success I probed Pin 7 &8 on the ratio change motor and although it tried to work it sounded horrendous. I removed it stripped it down and found the magnet bonded to the motor casing had broken off. So I turned the spindle it connects to manually and problem solved. Just need to pick a new motor up now. Thanks for info as always

Click to expand...

marjon said:

Sounds like the transfer box hasn't gone back to high and is in neutral, They do stick if not used.

Try functioning it a few times to see if it will shift back into low or high and give you drive.


Success I probed Pin 7 &8 on the ratio change motor and although it tried to work it sounded horrendous. I removed it stripped it down and found the magnet bonded to the motor casing had broken off. So I turned the spindle it connects to manually and problem solved. Just need to pick a new motor up now. Thanks for info as always

Click to expand...

marjon said:

“Quote @Mercedeschris “Success I probed Pin 7 &8 on the ratio change motor and although it tried to work it sounded horrendous. I removed it stripped it down and found the magnet bonded to the motor casing had broken off. So I turned the spindle it connects to manually and problem solved. Just need to pick a new motor up now. Thanks for info as always”

At least you know what it was. It’s 1 of them use it or lose it things.

J.

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Mercedeschris said:

Mmmm the conundrum now is buy a second hand replacement at £35-£140 or buy new at circa £450

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marjon said:

Never had to dig into the motor, as it seems to be the mechanical side that’s the issue, due to lack of use.
I would go secondhand personally and make sure the shaft turns free before fitting.

I probably function mine about 2 or 3 times a year and never had a problem.

J

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Mercedeschris said:

EAS has been removed. So that’s my next task to refit EAS…….I must be mad lol

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Mercedeschris said:

Yeah
Second hand I guess. I’ll get one for £45 and make a good unit out of the two if necessary. I must admit compared to a 1995 LSE I’ve got the difference in quality between vehicles is like day and night. You can tell the superior BMW DNA In the build quality. I was a technician at BMW from 1988 to 1995 and the technology is very consistent with E38 7 series cars. Unfortunately the cars been converted to coil springs and the EAS has been removed. So that’s my next task to refit EAS…….I must be mad lol

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marjon said:

Never had to dig into the motor, as it seems to be the mechanical side that’s the issue, due to lack of use.
I would go secondhand personally and make sure the shaft turns free before fitting.

I probably function mine about 2 or 3 times a year and never had a problem.

J

Click to expand...

Mercedeschris said:

Am I right in thinking this transfer motor system works on only 5 volts?? As I’ve probed my old unit with 12 volts. It worked a couple of times the went dead. I can probe with of the yellow of orange wire and nothing? They seem think wires to be only running on 5 volts unless I’ve interpreted the ETM wrongly?
Also what’s with these annoying adverts on here now. Make the site also unusable

thanks in advance

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Datatek said:

I doubt the motor runs on 5 volts, the feed back circuit probably does, I will have to look at RAVE when I fire up the office computer.
Use a web browser like Opera with an ad blocker.

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Mercedeschris said:

Many thanks as always Datatek
I’ve probed terminals 7 and 8 at C0683 orange and yellow on motor and RS/RP at C1319. The motor worked both ways by swapping probe over then it stopped? So I read some of the WSM vol 2 which implies the system is run on 5V signals from transfer box ECU. So I was thinking that I’d fried the motor?? But as you said I can’t see and pretty substantial motor running off 5V?? I got a replacement motor granted it’s used but it’s done exactly the same thing?? Weird.com
Thanks again

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Datatek said:

RAVE gives no indication of the motor supply voltage. The motor is driven by transistors, I would bet it's 12 volts but I don't know for sure, I have never had to check.

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Mercedeschris said:

I also looked at the WSM vol 2. This is where in the system function section it mentions this 5V control voltage from transfer box ECU. To control the hi/low positioning motor. Any way I’ll fit the replacement and see what happens. many thanks again. I see you’re into P38 EAS?? Mines been converted to springs. . I maybe picking your brains over next few weeks as I may try to restore the EAS system. I managed to fixed my classic RR EAS I really like it when it’s working properly.

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