200 tdi not starting!! New to Defenders but I'm certainly learning how to work on them :)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
gimmea250swb

gimmea250swb

Member
Posts
11
Location
Washington DC
Hi, I just purchased a 1991 200 tdi and imported back to the USA. Until yesterday, it has started at the first full turn of the ignition switch. I replaced the gauges and hazard switch last week and everything seemed to work fine since. Yesterday I tried to start the car and it turned and turned and after 3-4 tries it started up. Today, the same thing. What I observe now is that when I turn to the first click the fuel gauge doesn't register and the digital display on the odometer does not turn on. In addition, the light cluster does not illuminate (red fuel light for example) as it did before. The engine turns but it doesn't fire. My guess is the ignition switch is broken, but I don't know if it could be something else. My guess is that it isn't getting spark since the on position is not working. Does this sound correct? Is there anything else I'm missing?
 
Sorry, this is the first diesel I've had...

I replaced the OEM gauges with VDOs. You're right, I shouldn't have said "spark". The engine turns over but it doesn't run. I was thinking that if the key isn't transferring power when it's turned it may be stopping something from the engine firing. Maybe the glow plugs are getting power??
 
Last edited:
I’m going to guess that the acc position on the ignition switch is faulty as you say the dash lights don’t work nor the fuel gauge. These should work with the key on the first click, as should the fuel solenoid.
To help prove the theory, connect a 12v supply (run a wire straight from the battery or the big terminal on the starter motor) straight onto the solenoid connector at the back of the diesel injection pump. Then crank the engine on the key and it should fire up.
Hth
Rich
 
callisr said:
I’m going to guess that the acc position on the ignition switch is faulty as you say the dash lights don’t work nor the fuel gauge. These should work with the key on the first click, as should the fuel solenoid.
To help prove the theory, connect a 12v supply (run a wire straight from the battery or the big terminal on the starter motor) straight onto the solenoid connector at the back of the diesel injection pump. Then crank the engine on the key and it should fire up.
Hth
Rich
Click to expand...

Hi Rich, It worked! I ran the line and turned the key and boom it fired right away. I couldn't figure out what the grinding noise was until I realized I wasn't releasing the key...it's funny how when you're not operating normally you screw things up. I was holding a wire in one hand and turning the key and forgot to let go.

Now that we've determined its the ignition, can you guide me on what I need to fix? Is it just the switch at the end of the ignition housing?

Thanks again!
 
Check the switch out first with a multi meter, you may just have a bad connection somewhere.
If it is the switch it's held on by two little screws, one is a bugger to get at, removing the whole thing by tapping the two security bolts undone with a chisel can be easier.
 
It wouldn’t do any harm to blast the switch with contact cleaner if you have some. To be fair though, I’ve never had to play with one (touch wood!!) so not sure if it’s a viable option.
If that doesn’t work, proceed as Flossie says ^^^^

Glad you got her started though!!

Rich
 
They are a sealed unit and I doubt it's possible to get cleaner in there tbh.
They do suffer from over heating and burnt contacts though but are cheap to replace, under a tenner iirc , no idea of price or availability in the states though.
 
Incidentally, I just uploaded some pics of my ignition switch service. If you have the time and patience (tools too) you can dissemble your ignition switch, see if its repairable. You have to spend some time drilling the fasteners out and pulling apart the switch carefully. You must use a good center punch and a pilot drill bit to start the holes in the center. There is no rocket science to it really, just mark reference points, open it up, wash with good cleaner, I think I used carb cleaner, grease and put it back together. Gently open the retaining tabs to avoid breaking them. Tap the clamp holes on top and fit appropriate grade 8-10 bolts, use red locktite and you should be good.

You will see my pics here, no use uploading them to your thread again.. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...be-rebuilt-just-to-make-her-new-again.276925/

Cheers.
 
I just drew a pin out diagram for you, NOTE that this is for the Lucas 57SA ignition switch..you should be able to measure or mark your wires, since you connected your gauges, you ought to be technically oriented.

300tdi-57sa-ignition-dia-png.134519
 
Glad your getting it sorted, in my experience the 200Tdi only needs preheat when it gets really cold, like -5 deg C or so, very simple but strong engines. Look after it and it will be good for star ship mileage.
 
Do check the spade connectors on the ignition switch 4 terminals. I used a long nose pliers on the males to give them a slight kink..note slight..thinned mine with some solder and crimped the rear of the female spade connector on the back end close to the wire. By crimping them tighter like this, you are leaving the front open enough to get the females on using a long nose pliers..be careful not to add too much force to bend or break the males by accident.

Cheers.
 
Thank you all for your help!! Daylight savings happened this weekend and it's dark by the time I get home. Can somebody please guide me on how to get to the switch? I was able to take off the top and bottom cover of the steering cover yesterday and I don't recall there being enough room to view the connectors in the back. Do I need to remove the dash? As I sit here typing, perhaps removing the gauge cluster would do the trick. I'd like to check the connections this this problem may be attributed to all the wire moving I did when installing new gauges. I plan to check the connections, continuity and hopefully avoid replacing anything.
 
You will have to remove the upper and under side of the cover and also the binnacle and lift the instrument cluster off too....see the pic of mine below, but that is with the entire dash stripped out.
You will see some small screws holding the binnacle, be careful not to break it, its easy to break.

You can also used a bent long nose pliers to get up there as it is now..make sure you have the battery disconnected..

DSC_5392.jpg
 
Last edited:
Yes it could be that you have unplugged the ignition wire, they were pretty loose on both my 110's when I looked at them. See if you can post a pic of what you have for a dash. Here is a few pics of the ignition switch when i cleaned and serviced it and modified it to use grade 8.8 bolts.

ignition switch.jpg
 
Barbados said:
Yes it could be that you have unplugged the ignition wire, they were pretty loose on both my 110's when I looked at them. See if you can post a pic of what you have for a dash. Here is a few pics of the ignition switch when i cleaned and serviced it and modified it to use grade 8.8 bolts.

Thanks Barbados - I'll grab a pic in the morning and post it tomorrow evening. Cross my fingers that it's simply the wire.
Click to expand...
 
Even if its the switch being faulty, its not a big deal..just a bit of effort and time..tools too.Yes I know DST is in effect too for NA. Most of the guys on this site are from the UK, Aus and NZ so during this time you wont get many replies except for guys like myself who are on the EST zone.

Cheers.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
200 TDI fuel problems
2 3
Replies
59
Views
3K
Anaconda
A
P
110 not starting
Replies
0
Views
353
pjh1968
P
Scooby22
Defender TD5 cranking but not starting fixed
Replies
0
Views
872
Scooby22
Scooby22
Gunter Butfuster
defender 300Tdi ignition light coming on slightly
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
GRATCH
GRATCH
MeatCleaverX86
Starter Motor Not Stopping
Replies
12
Views
1K
marjon
marjon
Back
Top