2 wee hassles

Hi people,

Save me heed from these two hassles and I’ll bake you a cake.

Temp gauge getting power at the new sensor and the gauge it’s self. Faulty gauge? Or can a faulty thermostat cause the temp gauge to have no reading?

Since fitting a K&N filter instead of the oil bath I have been getting oil leaking form the breather assembly/rocker cover. Back pressure maybe? I would rather not put the oil bath back on as the engine revs a little freer. I would have thought that the K&N filter might have helped with back pressure.

Has anybody else had this happen to them?

Cheers…

low water level or bad earth could cause that

Thanks Slob! Maybe I missed the water level.

I'll give it a go when I get the bucket back from the garage. Getting the chassis welded up. Most of it is ok but some bugger who really should not weld had been at it inthe past...

Easy way to check gauges working or not is to turn IGN on, then whip the wire off the sender and deck it to the block while you watch the gauge using a mirror.

As soon as you earth the cable connector to the block, the needle should rise steadily. Take it off the block before it goes all the way up.

If the needle rises, suspect a duff sender.

CharlesY

Cool! Thanks for the advice Slob & Charlesy. Water level is good and the temp gauge is working when I test it like you said Charlesy.

What do you think? The first thing I done was replace the sender assuming that this would put it right but alass no joy. Thermostat maybe?

Bugger the leak. I live with it

w_mac said:

Cool! Thanks for the advice Slob & Charlesy. Water level is good and the temp gauge is working when I test it like you said Charlesy.

What do you think? The first thing I done was replace the sender assuming that this would put it right but alass no joy. Thermostat maybe?

Bugger the leak. I live with it

Click to expand...

The SENDER must be the right one for the CAR, not necessarily for the engine.

If the fuel gauge works OK, then the voltage stabiliser is probably OK, and if that is so I reckon the sender is them problem. new it may be, and fit it might, BUT, is it a match for the gauge?

CharlesY

The temp gauge only starts to register (come off the bottom stop) when the coolant is already pretty hot.

In other words, it doesn't measure temp at all until the water is HOT.

Now then, if the thermostat is stuck wide open or missing, it may never heat the water up enough t get teh guage off the stop.

You will know - the heater won't shove out much heat.

Also, the cool engine will be low on power and economy. Diesels are HEAT engines, and they work best when they are as hot as possible.

CHarlesY

Thanks Charlesy,

I replaced the new sender with another one and the temp gauge now works!

According to the gauge I am running a little hot. It never goes into the red but sits nearly off the N just before going into the red but still in the normal. I have ordered a new thermostat and I’ll flush the system out next week to see if this brings it down a little.

Maybe it is the gauge? No other problems that might be associated with over heating etc. I have done around 3000 miles without the temp gauge working and the old lady has done a couple of 400 mile round trips well loaded without any problems so I imagine that it can’t be that much of a problem, any thoughts? Cheers…

If you want more then a vague idea of water temp, fit a seperate water temp guage. Apparently they're easy to fit, but I haven't got around to getting one yet. I've found the standard temp guages can be a bit idiosyncratic so even if reading high it dunt mean your injun is.

My V8 runs quite low on the Mway to pretty high in slow traffic. Never appears to be getting critical, but it would be nice to know for sure it was ok.

Yup mine site just at the top of the 'N' and move up a little when working hard on bloody big long hills (alps).

Save me heed from these two hassles and I’ll bake you a cake.

Slob and I are waiting for our cakes ......

You can still buy CAPILLARY temperature gauges.
They need NO electricity, and the register all temperatures from about minus whatever to well over boiling, and they are graduated in degrees.

The car gauges don't tell you squat-all except maybe it's too hot, and then only IF the stabiliser and the sender are still working.

The capillary gauge is the way to go in a series landy.

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

You can still buy CAPILLARY temperature gauges.
They need NO electricity, and the register all temperatures from about minus whatever to well over boiling, and they are graduated in degrees.

Click to expand...

Yeah, yeah, yeah, one o' then. that's wot I wuz onnabout.

Where's me cake?

Did I say bake a cake?

What I meant to say was a link to a rake. So here it is
Spear & Jackson Neverbend Professional Garden Rake Long Handle :: 3840EY :: S/J3840EY :: Spear & Jackson Rakes

Man, it is so great to know that there are others out there living with landy niggles. Thanks for all your help!!!