2 Amigos [Solved]

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martin41076

Active Member
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65
Already posted about this previously but issue remains.
55 plate Freelander TD4
TC/HDC lights on dash.
Have replaced brake light switch twice.
Checked all earth points around car.
All fuses OK.
Brake lights work.
All connections sprayed with contact cleaner.
Ran a diagnostic on a Topdon ArtiDiag500, showing C1221 Brake Pedal Switch Electrical Failure.
Ran full diagnostic, machine detects when brake pedal is pressed/depressed and when HDC is turned on and off.
Not sure if it's linked to the second plug next to the brake light switch but not sure of it's purpose or what it's called - can't find reference to it anywhere?

Any ideas anyone? I'm scratching my head and it's the only thing stopping an MOT.

Thanks.
 
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Had the same. Can't easily identify the other hall effect sensor. Think it is to disable cruise control but may have other functions. Seems to be fitted whether you have cruise or not.

Like you, I replaced the brake pedal switch and no change.

Have you got the later switch and a short conversion loom? On a 55 plate you may have this already, but I fitted it with the short loom and problem cleared. I think the switch was modified so that it gave a more precise or better timed signal to the ABS that controls the HDC and TC.

Will try and find thread with photos.
 
New one looks like this.

Screenshot_20240721_200412_Google.jpg
 
Just a note on the subject of the modified brake switch which might help others.

Bought one with the lead to fit to my TD4 Sport. It has had a very occasional TC and HDC light come on when braking despite cleaning old type switch.

Before dangling under dashboard I tested the new one with an ohmmeter.

Plunger didn't break contacts it should and contacts that should make didn't.

In the design it has a blue 'nib' that turns as you install it. Only when this nib is turned does the plunger lock to the electrical part of the switch.

See photo for blue nib.

Might catch others out. Had me thinking for a bit !!

Screenshot_20240911_155905_eBay.jpg
 
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A friend of mine had this trouble, tried everything, even the new switch did not solve it, then he cleaned the plug on the brake reservoir, fixed right away.
 
I have the 2 amigos, HDC and TC lights on permanently
I've just looked at Island 4 x 4 and searched for modified brake light switch XKB500120, see photo which is the modified switch
Do I need the modified loom as well for my 2006 FL1 TD4? Presumably that should already be fitted
Advice on removing/refitting switch will be a really appreciated
1732923267147.png
 
Border Boy said:
I have the 2 amigos, HDC and TC lights on permanently
I've just looked at Island 4 x 4 and searched for modified brake light switch XKB500120, see photo which is the modified switch
Do I need the modified loom as well for my 2006 FL1 TD4? Presumably that should already be fitted
Advice on removing/refitting switch will be a really appreciated
View attachment 330970
Click to expand...
Depends, if you have a look under your brake pedal, if it looks like the one in your picture you don't need the modified loom. If it looks like a mini asthma inhaler then you will.
To remove you need to unplug the Loom and twist the switch to remove. To fit the new one, press the brake pedal down with one hand and twist the new switch in (line up the hole with the 2 prongs on the switch). Once fitted, release the brake pedal and you'll hear some clicking as the plunger sets itself. Plug the Loom in and hopefully problem solved. Access is tricky and you won't have great access to see what you're doing so you'll have to feel your way around a little bit. 👍
 
Hmm - interesting. I've just replaced my clutch on my 1998 K series 1.8 FL1. I've now got the ABS, TC & HDC warning lamps. Started off with just the ABS lamp - now it's all three.

In the process I damaged the reverse switch wiring on the g'box. I replaced it as well as the 1st gear switch. But to no avail. Removed both front ABS sensors - cleaned their 'cages' and the aperture they go into - lightly greased with copper eze and both pushed in to about 2mm away from the reluctor rings. No joy. Disconnected the battery for 30 mins, no joy, warning lamps still on.

Suggestions as to how to get this sorted?

PS - There were no warning lamps prior to clutch work and brake lamps worked as they should.

I also ordered a replacement brake light switch - just in case. The existing switch is a 2 wire circuit with 2 individual spade type plugs. The replacement has a moulded socket which requires the matching male plug on the loom; there appears to be 3 metal prongs in it for the plug to push onto. I haven't fitted this - yet.
 
htr said:
Hmm - interesting. I've just replaced my clutch on my 1998 K series 1.8 FL1. I've now got the ABS, TC & HDC warning lamps. Started off with just the ABS lamp - now it's all three.

In the process I damaged the reverse switch wiring on the g'box. I replaced it as well as the 1st gear switch. But to no avail. Removed both front ABS sensors - cleaned their 'cages' and the aperture they go into - lightly greased with copper eze and both pushed in to about 2mm away from the reluctor rings. No joy. Disconnected the battery for 30 mins, no joy, warning lamps still on.

Suggestions as to how to get this sorted?

PS - There were no warning lamps prior to clutch work and brake lamps worked as they should.

I also ordered a replacement brake light switch - just in case. The existing switch is a 2 wire circuit with 2 individual spade type plugs. The replacement has a moulded socket which requires the matching male plug on the loom; there appears to be 3 metal prongs in it for the plug to push onto. I haven't fitted this - yet.
Click to expand...
Is there nowhere down there that can read the Wabco codes?

Both times I've had the Amigos it was the modulator (shuttle valves). Stranger coincidents have happened!

The 3rd time they came on after getting stuck on the Rangitata river bed, but they clear after driving for a bit and haven't come back.
 
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GrumpyGel said:
Is there nowhere down there that can read the Wabco codes?

Both times I've had the Amigos it was the modulator (shuttle valves). Stranger coincidents have happened!

The 3rd time they came on after getting stuck on the Rangitata river bed, but they clear after driving for a bit and haven't come back.
Click to expand...
A new place has opened herevthis week - Perry European. Apparently the fellow is a LR 'Expert' I'll make contact tomorrow. It would be a hell of a coincidence if it was the ABS pump thingamajig.

Oddly enough I was driving it this afternoon and noticed that the speedo wavers a bit. At about 80kmh it dips to about 75 then rises again to 80. Not seen that before.
 
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