2.8 td Daihatsu into 110

stuck it in today with the minimum of hassle.

Bit of chopping the N/s footwell





New release bearing



Engine ready



Engine in



cut just enough out for the exhaust downpipe.



Will have to re-route the clutch pipe a little in order for the exhaust to fit.

Looks good.

Right got to the main hassle of fitting this engine!

That is wiring the alternator,
because it has an external regulator there are six wires that need to be wired up in order for it to operate correctly.

Three of the wires connect to the alternator , i,e, Field, rotor and earth.
the big fat terminal for the current.

one for the Batt light on the dash.

Got this far ok

Now i have two wires left which i am unsure of.

One has to be Ign live i presume and the other earth, but i dont know which one is which.



Can anyone help? Cheers

I'm not sure, but that might not be the original drawing in the book

I'ved tried to make a wiring diagram, I'm not 100% that this is correct, so dont try it at home!!



I'm going to try this in the morning, Someone please advise me if this is incorrect, so i dont blow the reg.

Ok i wired it up as per my diagram, but it isn't correct, i'm not getting 14.2V like i want.

Battery light is on with IGN and goes out when started, and below are the recorded voltages.

Battery Voltage = 12.87V

Running Voltage = 13.52V

Loaded Voltage = 13.52V


It seems it will charge, but not as it should, so i can use this for now until i can find the correct wiring procedure.

Have you got access to the Dihatsu wiring diagram?

Shifty1962 said:

Have you got access to the Dihatsu wiring diagram?

Click to expand...

Yes it is here:

http://www.bmhor.org/fourtrak/charging system 6MB.pdf

But it does not show the wire colours or multiplug arrangements,
thats why i tired to make my own diagram to include the colours and plugs.

Replaced the clutch pipe in a more suitable position ready for the exhaust pipe run.

Tunelessblues said:

Yes it is here:

http://www.bmhor.org/fourtrak/charging system 6MB.pdf

But it does not show the wire colours or multiplug arrangements,
thats why i tired to make my own diagram to include the colours and plugs.

Click to expand...

Might it be something to do with pulley sizes not spinning the alt fast enough for max output? Just a stab in the dark.

Shifty1962 said:

Might it be something to do with pulley sizes not spinning the alt fast enough for max output? Just a stab in the dark.

Click to expand...

thats a proper eureka moment, that is.

Tunelessblues said:

Yes it is here:

http://www.bmhor.org/fourtrak/charging system 6MB.pdf

But it does not show the wire colours or multiplug arrangements,
thats why i tired to make my own diagram to include the colours and plugs.

Click to expand...

My twopennyworth, might be b*ll*x but....

How about disconnecting the regulator and just wire the out put from the B+ terminal direct to the battery, run engine and put the multimeter across - if you're still not getting 14v then the alternator must be knackered.

If you do then get 14 v or more it must be the regulator box goosed or requires the voltage adjusting. The manual says something about adjusting it, which is probably the sensitivity of the regulator that earths the current when voltage is too high.

Shifty1962 said:

Might it be something to do with pulley sizes not spinning the alt fast enough for max output? Just a stab in the dark.

Click to expand...

No, pulleys are all standard OEM daihatsu components, apart from the PS pump, but that is on a seperate belt to the alternator.

More likely i have wired the External regulator incorrectly, or the external regulator is faulty.

I have another reg. but i'm not fitting that until i know the reg. is correctly wired.

Landy-ads said:

My twopennyworth, might be b*ll*x but....

How about disconnecting the regulator and just wire the out put from the B+ terminal direct to the battery, run engine and put the multimeter across - if you're still not getting 14v then the alternator must be knackered.

If you do then get 14 v or more it must be the regulator box goosed or requires the voltage adjusting. The manual says something about adjusting it, which is probably the sensitivity of the regulator that earths the current when voltage is too high.

Click to expand...

Nice one i totally agree, i need to eliminate the reg.

and just see how much power the Alternator is throwing out.

I shall do this next, but reckon the alternator is probably ok.

Good advice man!

Tunelessblues said:

No, pulleys are all standard OEM daihatsu components, apart from the PS pump, but that is on a seperate belt to the alternator.

Click to expand...

Yeah as soon as I posted I realised its all Dihatsu stuff so pulleys would be correct. Had a brain fart and pictured a Dihatsu alt on a LR engine for some reason. Getting old!

Update on the alternator wiring!

Luckily i had a Fourtrack come into work for some welding, so i pinned out the regulator box and now am happy that my wiring is correct.

This wiring diagram shows how to wire up a fourtrack regulator box



Wire colours as follows:

white = 12V Battery Live
White/Red = 12V Ignition live
White/Black = Earth (this wire is linked between alternotor and regulator)
White/blue = Stator
White/Green = Rotor
Yellow/White = Battery warning light

Some good info cause i couldn't find it anywhere.

So has it solved your problem? Had you wired it correctly first time round?

Shifty1962 said:

So has it solved your problem? Had you wired it correctly first time round?

Click to expand...

Yes i had wired it correctly to begin with.

However it hasn't solved my charging problem because i still only get 13.56V out of my alternator.

The Four track i tested also only charged at 13.86V .

I'm not sure if they are just low output alternators on fourtraks or the alternator is wearing out.

I would normally expect to see between 14.2-7V on a correctly operating alternator and only expect it to drop to 13.5+V fully loaded.

I guess i'll just have to live with it for now, at least it is charging.

Made some more progress today.

Fitted the complete exhaust system



I bought a massive intercooler to fit, so i decided to move the radator backwards,
the easiest way was to swap the top rad mountings round, which places the rad back the thickness of itself.





That was easy enough, then i proceeded to weld in new mounts at the bottom.





When fabricating the bottom mounts you need to be careful of the bottom hose, i did not leave myself much room for it and will have to place a piece of plastic inbetween the hose and the steering box to stop itself rubbing through.



My next issue:



Intercooler i bought is too large! lol

You could always widen your Landy
Nice job.