P38A 2.5l Timing Marks

wammers said:

That engine is not locked at TDC number one firing. It is 180 degrees out. Also mark on crank should be on a raised link not in the lower link. At TDC number one firing, mark should be on a raised link and mark in pump sprocket should be on the twelfth raised link to the right. Looks like the chain has jumped the crank sprocket.

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wammers said:

That engine is not locked at TDC number one firing. It is 180 degrees out. Also mark on crank should be on a raised link not in the lower link. At TDC number one firing, mark should be on a raised link and mark in pump sprocket should be on the twelfth raised link to the right. Looks like the chain has jumped the crank sprocket.

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Lukas018 said:

Thanks Wammers, the locking pin is in the flywheel which doesn't make a difference more point of reference, for clarity can you advise what I need to do please to put it right, I am being obnoxious and stupid, but would appreciate a guide so can get right?

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wammers said:

Remove lock pin rotate engine another 180 degrees insert lock pin. Dot on pump sprocket should be down to right. The dot on the pump sprocket is already against a raised link which is correct. Count down including that link and the dot on the crank sprocket should be on the twelfth raised link down from the mark on the pump sprocket. If you are replacing the head you will have to turn cam to number one firing position with number one lobes flat across top. before refitting.

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Lukas018 said:

Thanks mate much appreciated. As you mentioned the lower sprocket has jumped, I am renewing the chains and sprockets as I think there is a snapped tooth on the pump sprocket, if the crank sprocket has jumped on the chain, lining the new sprockets and chains up, the crank woodruff key would be out of line, obvious comment but would I need to rotate the crank on its own so everything lines up?

Cheers.

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Lukas018 said:

Thanks mate much appreciated. As you mentioned the lower sprocket has jumped, I am renewing the chains and sprockets as I think there is a snapped tooth on the pump sprocket, if the crank sprocket has jumped on the chain, lining the new sprockets and chains up, the crank woodruff key would be out of line, obvious comment but would I need to rotate the crank on its own so everything lines up?

Cheers.

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wammers said:

You need to rotate the crank clockwise one turn to get the dot on the crank back to the same position and fit lock pin. It is firing on number three at the moment. That will move the dot on the pump sprocket to where it should be. When you get nearer give me a shout. You need special tools for doing cam and pump timing.

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Lukas018 said:

@wammers engine was turned as you noted and I got the sprockets and chains off and the sprockets were badly worn, luckily didn't have a snapped tooth, the chain skipped two links, so got a new timing set, chains, guides, tensioner's, sprockets etc, so this Saturday I will install them line it up all. I am getting the head sent away as got few snapped bolts on the thermostat housing and exhaust manifold side, few bolts needs to be removed as however had it before cross threaded the bolts/nuts, head level check and test for any cracks.

However just have a few questions, dumb ones, but please see below:

1. Cylinder Head - It was removed with locked 180 degrees out as above, so where do the lobes need to be as it needs to be turned again to be TDC?
2. Cylinder Head - When I took the sprocket off, does the new one need to go on a certain way as there is no key or woodroof to line it up with?
3. FIP - I got the timing gauges but not confident timing this up, however RAVE seems to be relatively simple to follow?
4. Chain Tensioner - I couldn't find in RAVE the tensioner needs be torqued up to?

Thanks.

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wammers said:

1. Turn cam until number one lobes are flat across tops.
2. With engine locked at TDC number one firing sprocket is replaced with cam held in position by cam holding tool LRT-12-112.
3. Timing is easy if you have slackened pump nuts to align pump sprocket mark, pump will be in null position between 4 and 1 with 1 next to fire. With tensioner engaged. Nip pump nuts up so pump can be tapped around but is not slack and cannot be turned by hand. Push timing adaptor into pump until 2 mm is shown on gauge and lock in position, zero DTI. Tap pump towards engine until 0.95 mm shows on DTI. Tighten pump nuts. Job done.
4. Use the guide in torque settings list for bolt size used

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