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P38A 2.5dse refusing to start

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by B16FUN, Jul 7, 2018.

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  1. B16FUN

    B16FUN Active Member

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    Good evening all,
    I have a 1995 p38a 2.5dse that is currently refusing to start.
    It used to be my wife’s daily driver but we bought an l332 around a year ago. I kept the p38a as back up at my work shop. I start it every few weeks and allowed to run for a while.
    However, I hadn’t started it for five or six weeks and now it refuses to.
    It turns over great but I’m getting no fuel to the injectors.
    The key is synced to the car and operates the central locking with no problem.
    I thought it might be the in-tank pump which has gone in the past as when I disconnected the fuel line from the outlet side of the filter housing and turned the ignition on there was no fuel.
    I’ve just fitted a known good one and to no avail.
    I’ve disconnected the first fuel line from the injector and cranked the car, no fuel is getting to the injectors but I know the in tank pump is good.
    I’ve checked the fuse and the relay in the under bonnet fuse box and they are okay.
    Can anyone help point me in the right direction please?
    Cheers,
    Andy.
     
  2. 2perry

    2perry Member

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    All I can say is that after recently fitting a new engine fuel pump it took a very long time to bleed the air out to get her to run, had to open at least four of the pipes at the injector end, maybe after so long standing it needs to bleed. Not a complicated reply but just might work, good luck.
     
  3. B16FUN

    B16FUN Active Member

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    I’ll give it a go as it’s blocking the ramp in my workshop and I want to get it sorted and sold. There is fuel still in the FIP from the last time it ran. However, since changing the in-tank pump I’ve taken the fuel line off from the outlet side of the filter housing and having had the ignition on I would have expected to get some fuel from here first, however, I got nothing.
    Cheers for the reply.
    Andy.
     
  4. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    Not sure which year it changed, but the pump will only run while cranking or will run on ignition on - not sure which way round it is.

    Have you tried bridging the fuel pump relay and checking you get 180ml in 10seconds from the fuel line to the fuel filter?
     
  5. tanis8472

    tanis8472 Active Member

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    I believe tank pump only works when glowplugs are active. Wammers is the one to ask
     
  6. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    With ignition from cold lift pump is only active when glow plugs are powered. First check that with ignition glow plugs are getting power. If so check relay 12 is good. If not check glow relay. Lift pump is powered either when glow plugs are powered (From number six plug) or when engine is running. Look in tech archive for how to power lift pump from battery for bleeding. As described in lift pump flow check. When you have fuel flowing and lift pump is working power lift pump for a few minutes to bleed system, open all injectors whilst lift pump is powered get someone to crank engine, close each injector as air free fuel is seen. Engine may start as this is being done, close all remaining injectors. Remove jump wire from relay 12 and refit relay.
     
  7. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    Have you checked the stop solinoid, put 12v to it and see if you can feel it click open ,we have had a couple of motors lately with that not working.
     
  8. B16FUN

    B16FUN Active Member

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    Thanks for all the replies guys! I shall work through all of that and report back how I get on.
    Cheers,
    Andy.
     
  9. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

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    Sounds like it might have lost sync between EMS and BECM. Have you got a Nanocom or Syncmate?
     
  10. B16FUN

    B16FUN Active Member

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    Well, I tried everything suggested, with no joy.
    So, I thought I’d go back to the beginning.
    Dropped the tank, removed the pump and, nothing, the pump was goosed!
    So I obtained another pump, tested this, it worked so fitted it.
    Tested the wiring from fuse box to pump multiplug and I was getting the required voltage when you fed pin 5 on relay 12.
    Refitted the tank and went to bleed the fuel from the engine side of the fuel filter. Fed pin 5 with 12v and, nothing!
    I was going nuts!
    I called it a day before I lost my temper and went home.
    Sod it, I thought, I’ll sell it for spares or repair.
    This was yesterday.
    Today, I thought I’d give it one last shot. Went back and dropped the tank, again,I found the multiplug had come loose on the pump connector!
    Fitted that and before putting the tank back I tried bleeding the fuel with the pin 5 12v, it worked! Tried with the ignition and that also worked.
    Put the tank back and it still worked.
    Then I tried to bleed injector one.
    It was having none of it!
    I spent about three or four hours trying to bleed stuff, checking the stop solenoid was getting 12v, and even resorted to a whiff of ‘start you bstard!’, nothing.
    It would turn over, cough a bit but do little else.
    I decided sod it, I’ve had enough, but tried the key once more and it fired up!
    So, I don’t have much technically to add, other than ensure you test parts before fitting them, even when new (first replacement pump).
    Make sure all electrical connections are solid and properly together.
    Don’t go to the effort of completely refitting things until you’ve tested they still work where possible.
    And, perseverance! If it doesn’t work, start from the beginning and recheck everything!
    Cheers for all the help and suggestions though guys!
    Andy.
     
    Grrrrrr and brianp38dse like this.
  11. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    Well done for keeping at it, to many are being scrapped because peeps cant be bothered anymore, and the feeling you get when it all works is great:)
     
  12. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    They can be frustrating, but it's great when you win through.
     
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