P38A 2.5 TD 1997MY Oil Filter part code?

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chasman

Active Member
Posts
101
Location
Somerset
Oil change time. Workshop manual says the oil filter changed in the 1998MY so ours should be the early type: STC2180

Most suppliers seem to identify the correct filter a different way by stating whether the filter has plastic or metal ends. Replacing like with like can perpetuate errors, I want the correct part by objective data. That pilot who got sucked through the windscreen suffered that because someone did like-for-like, ignoring a service bulletin to increase the bolt sizes.

Other suppliers list the changeover at engine number 33978348.

Apparently, the back end of the VIN is the engine number, ours is 359673 but that's only six digits. However, the sticker in the book has Engine No: 00 so we assume we concatenate them to get: 35967300 which is higher than 33978348 indicating we need the later filter: STC3350

Can someone shed any light, please?

PS I will check our engine block number in case the engine was switched but the front air springs have perished and even with 3-ton axle stands under the body I just don't need the body damage, the adrenaline rush or the laundry bill.
 
I would have thought if you were lacking digits they would be leading zeros rather than trailing, i.e. 00359673. That's a guess though.

The only reason the filter is different is because of the casing so if it is ally it will be the earlier one.
 
Okay, thanks. I'd assumed the metal/plastic was the inner bit having seen them... I guess they used the same material metal in metal, plastic in plastic.
 
Early type (metal)

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Later type (plastic)

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Superb! Thanks for that. The old oil is VERY black... is this normal for a diesel (it's our first) and is that why the filter is totally different to a petrol car?
 
The previous owner changed it every 1yr/6k and we're sticking to that. We're changing it at the weekend, replacing a weeping top oil cooler hose at the same time. What's the skinny on flushing oils on here?
 
The previous owner changed it every 1yr/6k and we're sticking to that. We're changing it at the weekend, replacing a weeping top oil cooler hose at the same time. What's the skinny on flushing oils on here?

Don't. Just change regularly - I do 5k but probably over the top. Smith & Allan on the eBay is cheaper than their site. 10/40 semi-synthetic. 20l drum is near enough 2 changes.

The soot particles from burning the diesel go in the oil so within a few hundred miles it is horrible. The important thing is how slippy it feels when you try to press a smear off the dip-stick between your thumb and middle-finger.
 
Take care undoing the oil cooler pipe of the cooler they don't like coming apart and often knacker the ally thread on cooler, most people end up changing pipes and cooler.
 
Take care undoing the oil cooler pipe of the cooler they don't like coming apart and often knacker the ally thread on cooler, most people end up changing pipes and cooler.

Thanks, Brian, that's nice to know up front. I'll take special care to hose it down with PlusGas and use a freeze spray beforehand. We have a breaker nearby with at least 5 P38s out the back and a big Eurocarparts in town so no biggie (other than hassle factor) if it breaks. Are there any upgraded oil coolers out there? I've seen the ally rads and they look well made.
 
Don't. Just change regularly - I do 5k but probably over the top. Smith & Allan on the eBay is cheaper than their site. 10/40 semi-synthetic. 20l drum is near enough 2 changes.

The soot particles from burning the diesel go in the oil so within a few hundred miles it is horrible. The important thing is how slippy it feels when you try to press a smear off the dip-stick between your thumb and middle-finger.

Okay. We've already ordered the oil but at 9 litres a pop I see your point on bulk purchase. Thanks!
 
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