Hopefully i'll find out when I rip it apart. I don't know how the piston and valve could have made contact. Its had new chains and tensioner none of the others have made contact and it ran sweet as a nut.
2.5 just blew up
- Thread starter paulcl09
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jamesmartin
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im not saying it was(though you can get a lash adjuster failure) its just something i haven seen on a lr yet ,it will be interesting to see dont forget pics
gazman
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I had a my bike do this yrs ago. Not saying its the same.
The piston cracked and broke up next to the grudeon (wrist) pin. Part went up and smashed the head and a valve and the bits got knocked out the bottom with the engine rotation and smashed the cases.
Con rod and little end looked like nothing had happened.
The piston cracked and broke up next to the grudeon (wrist) pin. Part went up and smashed the head and a valve and the bits got knocked out the bottom with the engine rotation and smashed the cases.
Con rod and little end looked like nothing had happened.
brianp38dse
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Will be interesting to find out what went on in there.
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
My bet would be a piece of piston skirt fell off and got below conrod. Punching an hole in the alloy sump is one thing, punching an hole through the steel stiffener is a bit harder. Seems to have done both. Dropped a valve or valve contacted piston rocked piston and cracked skirt, in use it fell off. Result hole in sump. Who changed the chains? Damage could have been done to piston turning engine with starter after replacing camshaft if tappets had expanded and not been allowed time to relax before turning engine over. When doing work of this kind always allow time for tappets to relax and turn engine by hand at least two revolutions to check for fouls.
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Hi I done the chains myself, I didn't remove the cam shaft so there should not of been an issues with the tappets. I turned the engine by hand atleast 10 revolutions I always do. I done over 300miles before it happened. I now have another engine so I'll need to take my chains off the knackered one and put them on the other I have as they are brand new. Engine will be going in over the weekend dam this car keeps me busy!!!!
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- Preston Lancs.
OK must be just one of those things then. Be sure to have a look at the old engine and report what actually did fail.
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Not quite, there is a steel ladder frame stiffener bolted across the block full length and width above the sump. On removing the sump it is not possible to see the crankshaft itself or any crankshaft or big end bearing caps.
Can you tell me what oil is best for these engines. I have 5/30 5/40 or 10/40 all in fully synthetic.
Thanks
jamesmartin
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new chains old sprockets isnt necessarily better than a run in set
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With mileage on it, 10W 40 would be my choice. Change oil and filter on diesels often.
Ok 10/40 it is. Also is there anyway I can check the fuel pump timing is correct without removing the timing cover and chains again. Ive just swapped everything over to another engine and just wanted to double check it's all timed up correctly before I put it in the car.
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- Preston Lancs.
Pretty easy with the timing tools. Pump timing is not something you can guess. You will need an adaptor and DTI, crank locking pin. Follow instructions in RAVE for checking or adjusting pump timing. If you need to check cam timing you will need cam locking tool.
I have the crank, cam and dti. When I had it all time up with the marks on the timing chain the dimple hidden at the back of the fuel pump sprocket wasn't pointing straight up but the dimples on the outside of the sprocket were matched to the coloured links. I just wasn't sure if the dimple thats hidden around the back should face straight up as that's what I read.
Number 15 on this
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With crank locked at TDC number one firing. The dimple on the crank sprocket should be at the bottom just to right one bright link goes to that.. The pump sprocket will have two marks on it. A dimple or line marked 4 and a dimple or line marked 6. The other bright link goes to the dimple or line marked 6. Cam is then set with cam locking tool lobes flat across top. Cam timing varies with mileage on chains. New chains cam lock tool flat on head. Old chains with a 4.61 mm feeler gauge under inlet side of cam locking tool. Tighten cam bolt to specified. Remove locking tool Static timing is done with DTI follow RAVE instructions to check static. Turn engine clockwise until first cam lobe is upright. Then fit DTI into adaptor. Set about 2 mm on DTI. Turn engine clockwise until DTI stops dropping, then zero it. Continue turning engine and engage locking pin read DTI. Should indicate 0.90 mm lift. If not slightly slacken pump nuts and tap pump until 0.90 mm is achieved. Last movement always towards engine to take any slop up in pump internals. Lock nuts up and repeat to check setting.
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Don't worry about that it is just indicating where woodruff key slot is. As long as you have put bright links to correct marks it is fine.
Ok thanks so whe
Ok thanks so when the locking pin is in it should be 0.9 does it matter what stroke or the cam lobes are facing at this point. Just as long as I started with the first one pointing up. This is how they look when I'm at 0.9mm
