2.25 petrol
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put a turner head on it?
Get an over drive
Get an over drive
:hysterically_laughi....No!
Ok, more helpfully....
Basic tuning- important. Plug/points etc.
Timing- check.
Weber carbs said to be slightly better on fuel. If you've got a Solex on there, throw it away and at the very least fit a serviced Zenith.
Never understood what the fascination was with changing air filters- the thing's either running right or it isn't.
Tyre pressures etc. (Grandmother sucking eggs etc, but it's all important.)
Never let the right foot touch the floor.....
Dunno what you're getting, but my 109 with General SAG's on the road gets 15 mpg on petrol on a good day. Can be as low as 12 if pulling anything at all. Road tyres would save a bit I guess.
FWH...will get you an extra 1-2 MPG, but I don't like em 'cos of swivel wear etc...
Best bet is LPG conversion. Even less MPG but half the price....or go Diesel and get 25......
Ok, more helpfully....
Basic tuning- important. Plug/points etc.
Timing- check.
Weber carbs said to be slightly better on fuel. If you've got a Solex on there, throw it away and at the very least fit a serviced Zenith.
Never understood what the fascination was with changing air filters- the thing's either running right or it isn't.
Tyre pressures etc. (Grandmother sucking eggs etc, but it's all important.)
Never let the right foot touch the floor.....
Dunno what you're getting, but my 109 with General SAG's on the road gets 15 mpg on petrol on a good day. Can be as low as 12 if pulling anything at all. Road tyres would save a bit I guess.
FWH...will get you an extra 1-2 MPG, but I don't like em 'cos of swivel wear etc...
Best bet is LPG conversion. Even less MPG but half the price....or go Diesel and get 25......
I can get 20mpg from my 21/4 petrol SWB if I take it on a long run and drive really carefully - keep it below 50, lose as little speed as you can, accelerate gently, brake early etc. That's with a reasonably well set up (but fairly worn) engine, Zenith carb, standard filter and 600x16 tyres.
Short journeys round town and it drops below 15.
Short journeys round town and it drops below 15.
1396midget
New Member
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got 20 outta my 88 last wekend on moterway- gotta webber on it and a shagged engine - pint of oil evry 50 mile
running 7.5 16s rangemasters on front and SAGs on back.
pump up the tyres but dont put backs up to 50psi unles u like spinning on roundabouts at 20 mph, drive behind people, lorries if u can find a slow one
simplest way to make it more fuel efficient is dont turn it on.
running 7.5 16s rangemasters on front and SAGs on back.
pump up the tyres but dont put backs up to 50psi unles u like spinning on roundabouts at 20 mph, drive behind people, lorries if u can find a slow one
simplest way to make it more fuel efficient is dont turn it on.
A bit of armchair piffle.....:blabla:
The problem as I see it is that Series Land Rovers were designed in a different age, to perform functions we rarely use them for now.
At the time, petrol was cheap enough to not be a major factor in the running of them for these jobs (who cared if it used a few gallons of fuel a week if it meant keeping your sheep alive, the dam got built or you kept the peace in whatever far-flung part of the world you were...)
Nothing comes for free, and the price of a heavy, robust vehicle is high fuel consumption, in fact looking at it in our modern fuel-efficient world the idea of a 2 ton vehicle powered by a 2 1/4 litre petrol engine seems faintly laughable.
Having said that, they are actually quite well balanced power to weight in the sticky stuff (there's no point in simply adding horsepower to dig yourself a deeper hole). Horses for courses.
When looking at major outlays in cash for fuel saving mechanicals, like overdrives, high ratio transfer boxes etc etc, I really do think it pays to sit down and work out how long it will take to recoup the money. The answers can sometimes be surprising.
Also, how effective would these things be if you only use the truck for short distances? Believe me, I've been there with this one and whilst there are undeniably savings to be made in the long term, you do come up against the final reality that there is a point where it ain't going to get any cheaper. As a previous post said: If you want it really efficient, don't turn it on.
The problem as I see it is that Series Land Rovers were designed in a different age, to perform functions we rarely use them for now.
At the time, petrol was cheap enough to not be a major factor in the running of them for these jobs (who cared if it used a few gallons of fuel a week if it meant keeping your sheep alive, the dam got built or you kept the peace in whatever far-flung part of the world you were...)
Nothing comes for free, and the price of a heavy, robust vehicle is high fuel consumption, in fact looking at it in our modern fuel-efficient world the idea of a 2 ton vehicle powered by a 2 1/4 litre petrol engine seems faintly laughable.
Having said that, they are actually quite well balanced power to weight in the sticky stuff (there's no point in simply adding horsepower to dig yourself a deeper hole). Horses for courses.
When looking at major outlays in cash for fuel saving mechanicals, like overdrives, high ratio transfer boxes etc etc, I really do think it pays to sit down and work out how long it will take to recoup the money. The answers can sometimes be surprising.
Also, how effective would these things be if you only use the truck for short distances? Believe me, I've been there with this one and whilst there are undeniably savings to be made in the long term, you do come up against the final reality that there is a point where it ain't going to get any cheaper. As a previous post said: If you want it really efficient, don't turn it on.
yep that sounds about right to me, when it rains in the village you can see where I have driven
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mine drinks less oil than that and it has a blown head gasket / piston / to be dertermined... sure its ok?
1396midget
New Member
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- 273
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- York
yup. burns bout half of it and ****es the rest out of a possibly non existant sump gasket/back of engine/ everyewhere. no plug foulin or oil in watter, runs really well, just tons o bloo smoke on startup and power. whole things so shagged - all the gearboxes n stuff - it's not worth fixin it. it works
dr pepper
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New plugs, new points or better electronic dizzy.
Slick 50.
Clean air filter.
Dont drive like an idiot.
Range rover diffs.
Overdrive.
Thinner tyres, maintain tyre pressure.
Well set up carby.
Engine dekoke.
Head skim to increase compression.
Less restrictive exhaust (sports silencers).
The list goes on, but your never gonna make a huge diffo, the petrol is not superb on efficiency, and its pulling a lot of weight.
Have you considered a 200 tdi conversion, it makes a big diffo on power and consumption.
Slick 50.
Clean air filter.
Dont drive like an idiot.
Range rover diffs.
Overdrive.
Thinner tyres, maintain tyre pressure.
Well set up carby.
Engine dekoke.
Head skim to increase compression.
Less restrictive exhaust (sports silencers).
The list goes on, but your never gonna make a huge diffo, the petrol is not superb on efficiency, and its pulling a lot of weight.
Have you considered a 200 tdi conversion, it makes a big diffo on power and consumption.
Big Stew
New Member
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- 37
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- Horncastle, Lincs
The best bit of kit I have fitted to improve MPG ,is a Electronic Dizzy from Simon BBC. This has given me a 15 % increase and also keeps the engine running sweet as a nut. Took about 1/2 hr in total to fit ! ! !
45D Electronic distributor POWERMAX Land Rover POWERMAX electronic Lucas type 45D distributor Land Rover [45DE] - £54.99 : Simonbbc Electronic Ignition Solutions, Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits Lucas Distributors Bosch Distributors Coils V8 Rove
45D Electronic distributor POWERMAX Land Rover POWERMAX electronic Lucas type 45D distributor Land Rover [45DE] - £54.99 : Simonbbc Electronic Ignition Solutions, Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits Lucas Distributors Bosch Distributors Coils V8 Rove
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