2.25 engine change

ok so after lots of faffing and asking stupid questions i have dismantled, checked and put the newish engine back together. ordered the clutch and engine hoist both available friday.

but i have some more stupid questions.

the replacement engine is from an early defender and different in some minor respects.

1. the water pump has 1 extra outlet, can i use the pump from the old engine, it looks like it should fit?

2. the top bit of the thermostat housing is different, again the old one looks like it should fit, does it?

3 same as above for inlet manifold.

4. the r/h engine mount, if looking from the front of the engine, looks further back on the new engine, but looks like it can be moved forward a bit on alternative bolt holes, is this correct?

5. the fuel pump has a solonoid on it, the old one didnt, do you provide 12v to this solonoid for the engine to run or stop?

dont think pump will fit just block hole ,complete bypass housing and thermostat housing can be swapped id wanted but rember new engine will be metric bolts ,ignition feed that is still live during cranking as not all ignition feeds are

the plot thickens. i took the manifolds off the engine in the truck today to put on the new engine and found a battered peice of copper pipe about an inch long resting against one of the inlet valves, any ideas what this could be?

dosent sound like anything from engine but something dropped into intake,big question is has part already gone through valve

borristherat said:

the plot thickens. i took the manifolds off the engine in the truck today to put on the new engine and found a battered peice of copper pipe about an inch long resting against one of the inlet valves, any ideas what this could be?

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It could have been in the manifold when it was put on, or some nasty bollox dropped it down the hole, you never know. Sounds like it could have been your problem all along, or part of it.
At least you found it !!!
A piece of copper is much better than a piece of steel.........but still not good though, like JM said, has any gone through? Well worth checking...

thanks guys. i will for the moment concentrate on the new engine and have a good rumage when its in and working, i will let you know what i find.

borristherat said:

thanks guys. i will for the moment concentrate on the new engine and have a good rumage when its in and working, i will let you know what i find.

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well i didnt do that, i took the head off. bores look ok from the top, i think.
i can see some cross hatching in them but not all round, no scoring or pitting and no ridge at the top, the pistons are .1 oversize and the car has covered 70k miles. the bloke i got it from claimed the engine had recently been "reconditioned".
is it worth taking it out now and stripping it further or could the offending peice of copper pipe been the problem?

oh and whats the best way to remove carbon from the exhaust ports. one of them (the one with the copper pipe on the inlet side) is so coked up its allmost blocked.

bores will be worn on side opposite cam shaft about 12mm down where top ring reaches top ,front and rear sides dont wear,pistons should be either std 10 thou over 20 thou over etc,

jamesmartin said:

bores will be worn on side opposite cam shaft about 12mm down where top ring reaches top ,front and rear sides dont wear,pistons should be either std 10 thou over 20 thou over etc,

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sorry pistons say +1.016 on them so engine has been bored out to max, a slight ridge is on the bores about 12mm from the top, there was no ridge like this on the other engine.

i guess then the engine in the truck is a scrapper, or can they be relined at a reasonable cost?

yes you can have them relined and bored back to std, but dont you another block ,liners perhaps £10-20 .fitting £100 and rebore ?

jamesmartin said:

yes you can have them relined and bored back to std, but dont you another block ,liners perhaps £10-20 .fitting £100 and rebore ?

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yep have another one that i took apart and that looks good but i would quite like to put the origional engine back in it at some point.
but i will be looking at over £400 so far and thats before i even look at the crank/cam/timing ect components so i think i will just stick it in the back of the garage and forget about it, when removed.
thanks for your help and advice once again.

At least you managed to find out why it was running crappy, hope you have better luck with the new one, and you also now know some of the things to look for .................And...........you did it yourself

mad git said:

At least you managed to find out why it was running crappy, hope you have better luck with the new one, and you also now know some of the things to look for .................And...........you did it yourself

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cheers mate but it aint in and running yet.

it is however nearly in and the old one is in bits arround the garage. i keep getting distracted because playing with the old engine is more fun than fitting the new one.

i borrowed a micrometer this afternoon and the ridge is .003 inch smaller than the widest part of the bore. the haynes comic says under .008 inch is acceptable if you fit "oil control rings" surely this is a bodge?

will having a non origional engine in the old girl reduce her value? everything is bog standard and origional apart from the nearly in engine (both 2 1/4 diesel but new one is 5 bearing and old one is 3).

i am toying with the idea (if i can make both engines work) with putting one in an old fishing boat i have under a load of hay in the back of the barn.

might be able to get your block linered for you cheapish ,how did you measure with micrometer ,internal one ?

jamesmartin said:

might be able to get your block linered for you cheapish ,how did you measure with micrometer ,internal one ?

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yep. one of my mates races corsas and builds his own engines so has all the gear. i am planning to visit him in the morning to borrow a dti.

funny thing though he didnt want to touch the landy engine with a barge pole? says its to "difficult" to work on?????????

i may take you up on your kind offer, but let me check all the other bits first, if it needs a crank or something i may be lucky enough to swap it for a pie and a beer.

they are simple apart from cam timing ,but it just needs careful measuring and checking,keep you block and number all bits can be sourced cheap if not in a rush then one day fit new original engine ,but in the mean time use other

jamesmartin said:

they are simple apart from cam timing ,but it just needs careful measuring and checking,keep you block and number all bits can be sourced cheap if not in a rush then one day fit new original engine ,but in the mean time use other

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thanks for the clarity, that was the origional idea.

knowing my luck it wont be long before the new ones ****ed as well.

you said that engine wear was a problem in these engines, what causes it? would liners solve the problem?

materials and design ,good quality liners help, but engines did then ,you find early engines worn with 70000 and 300 tdis with none at 200000

Hey Boris, you must be doing things right, James is using "smileys"