2.25 doosul - what size are the fuel pump nuts..?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

ScratchyDom

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,151
Location
Norf Dorset
As per the subject - I've got to go and replace the fuel pump on my stranded Itchy (full story to follow when I've got time / can be @rsed). From previous experience I know they're a pain in the chuff to get off so was thinking I would cut down an old spanner to make a stumpy which might make it a little less of a pita.

I've only got old metric spanners so looking for the nearest what will fit.

And I'm getting a lift over at 11 so any quick answers would be very much appreciated.

Ta.
 
The ones that bolt the pump to the engine ? (3of them?) There 13mm, i used 2 extension bars on a ratchet, just careful when you spin it you dont tap the positive side of the battery, or youll get some sparks:)
 
Nah, two nuts on a 2.25 Series diesel - bolting the lift pump to the enjun. I changed one last week and it's failed. I'm thinking if I shorten a spanner it'd make life lots easier. Carnt remember the size though, pretty sure it was bigger than 1/2"...

Come on series peeps!
 

Attachments

  • series-3-part-manual-6.pdf
    49.8 KB · Views: 212
Last edited:
Download parts catalogue, look in parts catalogue...

I'm guessing that the parts catalogue doesn't actually have nut sizes in. I was thinking that (this being a Landy forum) someone might've been able to pop outside, pop a bonnet and have a look for me.

Dun't matter anyhow, managed it with a long spanner - bitova fiddle though. New pump failed within 10 miles. I think I'll continue this on a new fred...

PS: It was 1/2"
 
Lot of people having issues with new lift pumps at the moment.
Even Bearmach ones failing within a few miles.:(
 
I know you've done it now but I always use a ground down 1/2 inch socket and short extension bar makes life a lot easier than spannering. Socket only has a few mill section now but still use it for all my land Rover jobs and its still going strong.
 
I know you've done it now but I always use a ground down 1/2 inch socket and short extension bar makes life a lot easier than spannering. Socket only has a few mill section now but still use it for all my land Rover jobs and its still going strong.

I was thinking a thin wall socket of some description could do the job. And I think I'll make myself one as the replacement, replacement pump failed too!

Always one to see the positive in things, I found a genuine AC one on ebay which (allegedly) is the same as a genuine Land Rover one, which the sell for £190 +VAT. £35 including postage, that'll do!
 
why not an overhaul kit?

On the first pump I stripped the thread that the banjo bolt bolts into, not much pressure on the spanner - I think that's where the leak I was trying to fix was coming from. So that wasn't really overhaulable. The other two are going back for a refund.

The AC one has just arrived - a proper bit of kit! Feels like it's been made out of metal rather than Kitkat foil. Will be fitting it later and will report back.
 
Apparently ptfe tape is the last thing you want anywhere your fuel system...

So, fitted the AC pump and it was still cutting out then wouldn't start. Realised that the problem must have been air getting into the system, which had to be between the tank and pump, stripped it all down and finally spotted that the olive on the fuel line (where it goes into the pump) was corroded, got a new pipe end made, fitted it and it's all fine now (touch wood!)
 
Back
Top