Series 3 2.25 Diesel white smoke

after 18 months of restoration started engine for first time, a lot of white smoke. I let it run up to temperature and still have the white smoke. I have fitted all new injectors, looks like too much fuel, is it a simple fix of adjusting fuel pump timing. If so do I adjust fuel pump clock wise or anti clock wise.

presuming everything else is ok ie valve clearances timing chain not worn excessively fuel and air filters ok etc you move it clockwise to advance it but don't forget to slacken the injector pipes first

When I did mine I loosened the injector pipes, a couple of them took a bit of persuading to go back on in the new position, had to loosen one at both ends to get it to fit.

Mine blocked out the sun with white smoke and turning the pump did nowt. The timing chain was worn and although a faf I managed to change it with success.

honolulujoe said:

When I did mine I loosened the injector pipes, a couple of them took a bit of persuading to go back on in the new position, had to loosen one at both ends to get it to fit.

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Always loosen em at both ends!

thx for the tip

Bobsticle said:

Mine blocked out the sun with white smoke and turning the pump did nowt. The timing chain was worn and although a faf I managed to change it with success.

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did it get rid of all the smoke?

guess that will be my first job if it fails the dreaded emissions test

honolulujoe said:

thx for the tip

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That's what we were taught to do. loosen both ends,redo em slowly bit at each end, wiggle the pipe occasionally as you do em up, settle the pipe and avoid putting any stress on it.!
I have had hp lines break, not on ones I had done up. And it is messy, and brings the job to a total standstill!

honolulujoe said:

did it get rid of all the smoke?

guess that will be my first job if it fails the dreaded emissions test

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Smoke gone...............

Mine is 1966 so is a visual check only. If they go anywhere near it with a probe your at the wrong station.

White smoke is unburnt fuel. I get a little at start up but thats normal. I also get black smoke on hard acceleration but thats quite normal too.
On an engine designed in the 40s emissions where only a concern if the engineers had had a stout too many the night before.

Bobsticle said:

White smoke is unburnt fuel. I get a little at start up but thats normal. I also get black smoke on hard acceleration but thats quite normal too.

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+1 perfectly acceptable on an old diesel.

Idiots guide to changing ye chain. Or should that be Guide to change ye chain from an idiot ??????

Before you start get the feeler gauges out and set number 1 valve (front most) Get it spot on.................Dont worry about the others just yet.

1 Purchase a timing cover gasket kit and decent chain. May as well get a new slap pad as well.
2 Drop coolant.
3 Remove front panel, radiator cowl, radiator, belt and fan. Whip off the air filter, vacuum pipes, heater pipe and rocker cover.
4 Throw away the front panel retaining fixed bolts. Fabricate replacements.
5 Nip next door and borrow a 41mm (I think) socket from the friendly diesel fitter and get the pulley retaining bolt off.
6 Take all the bolts out of the timing cover and water pump and keep in order on the wing top. Dont forget the front sump bolts.
7 Take photo of the bolts for when they all fall on the floor and get mixed up.
8 Remove covers and clean off all the blue sh1te that some twonk squirted all over the place when fitting the Britpart Plasticine chain last time. Then stand open mouthed as to how your going to stop sh1te falling into the oil sump.
9 Open fly wheel inspection cover (rear drivers side). Yes thats the one right down there.
10 Pop the pully wheel nut back on and turn the engine clockwise until the correct mark lines up with the arrow. No not that one, or that......... Yes thats the one.
11 Clime on top of the engine and drop your head behind the fuel pump whilst holding a torch and your phone camera. After several attempts to take a photo of the timing mark on the flywheel give up and decide you have chosen the wrong mark anyway and attempt to eliminate each timing mark on the flywheel, leaving only one possibility.
12 Make sure valve number 1 (front most valve) is fully down (open).

Right thats the easy bit. Now donn your whitest jacket and thick rimmed glasses. It will also help if you pace a little whilst holding a clipboard.

sounds like fun, would be nice to have a non smokey diesel, advancing the pump did help but it is still a smokey ****er

The next bit visually measures the flat spot on the cam that is holding valve number one open. The valve will remain fully open for a portion of its rotation before beginning to close again.
Time for bed children. we'll finish the story tomorrow night.

btw I don't think they would need to go anywhere near mine, even with a probe, a blind man could see it smoking

Right, suck your pencil a bit and point it at bits of the engine whilst nodding. Use your pipe if you have one. It wont help but will impress passers by and make them think you know what your doing.
Whilst your posing, bend back the tabs on the cam sprocket and get the bolt out.

There are several ways of doing this and one of them is buying stuff. I dont do much of that so I didnt use a dial gauge or timing wheel or owt else that costs the rent money.

Take one plastic drinking straw and a golf ball sized blob of Plasticine from your daughters bedroom. If she is resident try throwing stuff at her from behind the door as they can inflict a nasty bite when provoked. Cut the drinking straw in half and make a point at the end of one of them.

I will take it you have found the EP mark on the flywheel and its bang on the pointer. Now remove the belt tensioning thingamabob. Try not to let it explode all over the drive, its a bu@@er to find the spring. Remove the slap pad. Remove the chain.
At this point your supposed to gently turn the cam shaft sprocket until your sure valve number one is just on the point of being fully open and then turn until its on the point of almost starting to close. In reality you get it almost there and one of the other valve springs that is wound up like grannies mantle clock, lets go and throws the cam way past the point you wanted it. I did this several times and got very pizzed off with it so I fully loosened off all but valve number 1 via the tappet adjustment screws.
Now take half the plasicine and stick the pointy straw horizontally across number one rocker arm. Take the other and stick it vertically on where the rocker cover sits. You now have a vertical scale and a pointer. As you turn the cam back and forth you can mark the two points on the straw where the valve is just fully open and where it almost starts to close. Now turn it half way between the two points and dont move it again.
Get your new chain and try fitting it between the two sprockets (only on the side opposite the tensioning thingamabob) It wont fit................ It will sag like a saggy thing. Thats coz it aint crap like the last one.

Remove chain. Gently pull off cam sprocket and whilst watching the drinking straw so nothing moves, turn the sprocket to the next slot and replace. Try the chain again. Continue this until the chain fits across the sprockets like a glove. I had to try all of the slots and found the last one to be bang on. Just my luck.
When your happy, re fit the tentioner and new slap pad. Check your Bobsticle gauge and the fly wheel. Everything should still be bang on.

This is when you have to put the whole car back together, refill with coolant, set the tappets and pray you dont have to strip it all back down coz its no better.

Haha. Nice article. I can do the clip board bit and sucking end of pencils but the the rest.....

hey bob, is the chain the only new part you need or are there other bits of gubbings to replace?

You know better than that......... Spanner, worms, can...................

There are parts that wear on the tensioner, Mine seemed ok. Also the sprockets will need inspecting. Again all seemed well, thankfully the chains seem softer than the sprockets. New gaskets obviously and the bottom edge of the cover seals on the sump gasket. If you damage it on removal you might have to replace the whole sump gasket (or squirt blue sh1te all over it). The slap pad is worth replacing but only cost pence. Also gives the opportunity to check over the water pump. New coolant went in and I was changing the oil anyway but not necessary.

I like the blue sh1te, I remember you don't

thx for all the tips, think I might just bite the bullet and do the timing properly as I have to flush the cooling system anyway, I shall order a chain and see how it goes