Series 3 2.25 Diesel smoking on idle

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Ric82

Ric82

Active Member
Posts
93
Location
Lincolnshire
Hi All

it's me again so I have the series 3 up and running but I have a strange issue which I would like some advice on.

When you start the truck it starts with the first crank and runs very well, but as the trucks start to warm up I notice the smoke isn't clearing and seems to get worst but only when at idle, rev the engine to about 1000/1200 and the smoke clears. There is no smoke on acceleration and it will run no issues at 45 / 50 but 50mph feels a little like it's revving its tits off but still no smoke.

idle sounds a bit poppy from the exhaust.

I have only just had the injectors and fuel pump fully overhauled so any advice would be great.

Just to confirm doesn't seem to be using oil or water but the smoke does have a diesel / blue tinge to it could this be stem seals?.

Also worth noting I have done the valve clearances 0.010 and mine has the butterfly valve in the inlet not sure if / how I set this up correctly.

Many Thanks
Richard
 
Last edited:
What colour is the smoke. If it’s white then it’s probably unburnt fuel.
Have you tried advancing the pump timing.
The butterfly must start to open just before the revs begin to rise. I use the two clamp brackets on the shaft that controls both.
 
Bobsticle said:
What colour is the smoke. If it’s white then it’s probably unburnt fuel.
Have you tried advancing the pump timing.
The butterfly must start to open just before the revs begin to rise. I use the two clamp brackets on the shaft that controls both.
Click to expand...

The smoke is a white ish blue but very faint blue does smell of diesel. I have tried the pump and seem to make no difference. I have spoken to the diesel guy who did the pump and injectors and he said head gasket or exhaust valve but I'm holding off pulling the head until I get some more advise from you guys as it runs and starts so well.


Thanks Richard
 
Keep advancing the pump 1 mm at a time (clockwise). If it reaches full turn then it’s wear on something. Either the timing system or valves.
 
I suffered from this many years ago (I no longer run a series) For me the cure was to bin the butterfly valve which is difficult to set up with all the wear in the linkage and fit an electric vacuum pump.
 
after checking its looks to be pointing to the linkage adjuster
 

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Yes confusing , para 18 mentions a clearance and no 18 on diagram showing a clearance but the amount is not specified , but with engine at idle and rubber intake pipe removed you should see butterfly open before engine revs increase when the throttle shaft is moved , it’s just to get more air in to get mixture correct and also helps fix poor braking when you lift foot off accelerator butterfly valve shuts increasing manifold vacuum and servo vacuum should said foot move to brake pedal
 
I have disconnected the control rod to the butterfly tonight and fully opened and there is a noticeable deference in smoke straight away. I'm now going to wait until the weekend and have a little play about and see how it goes. I will report back after the weekend.

Thanks Richard
 
Hi all

So I adjusted the butterfly and managed to stop the smoke on idle. I did this by sitting at idle and just opening the butterfly until it stopped. :).

Now the next question is I had the issue before I adjusted the butterfly which I put down to a faulty servo. I have now fitted a new servo could someone confirm which connector on the butterfly the servo should go to Top or Bottom?

The current configuration is listed below

Rocker Cover Breather connects to the Top connection on the butterfly valve.
The brake servo goes to a T piece which connects to the Vacuum tank and the Bottom butterfly valve connection.


If the feedback is dont bother wasting your time can someone recommend a 12v vacuum pump that I could use? I would like to keep it as original as possible but standing up in the seat when slowing down is not great fun :)


Many Thanks
Richard
 
Last edited:
213954E8-F444-4EE9-AD59-9EF0AC827FE8.jpeg



sounds same as my set up. Is the servo one way valve working ok. It should be creating a good vacuum at idle with butterfly closed to make servo work.
To test servo, turn engine off press brake a couple of times then hold gently, start engine up and the pedal should go down a bit , if you have it set so it does not do this then it’s an mot failure better it smoke a bit and have good brakes
Sometimes adjusting timing gets rid if smoke
 
steve2286w said:
View attachment 264745


sounds same as my set up. Is the servo one way valve working ok. It should be creating a good vacuum at idle with butterfly closed to make servo work.
To test servo, turn engine off press brake a couple of times then hold gently, start engine up and the pedal should go down a bit , if you have it set so it does not do this then it’s an mot failure better it smoke a bit and have good brakes
Sometimes adjusting timing gets rid if smoke
Click to expand...

Okay so looking at your you have the same setup as me I think it must be the butterly config as it's a brand new servo and pipes seems to be know leaks so I will keep playing with adjustment.

Many thanks

I will update in a day or two with my finding it find tonight that if I touch the throttle cable it revs the engine abit so maybe I need abit more slack in that as well.

Richard
 
I fitted a 12v vacuum pump triggered from the brake light switch via a relay. Hella U28 or U30 (a Volvo part ?)
There used to be a Dutch eBay seller supplying these, worth an eBay search for vacuum pump ? mine took around 2 hours to fit and looked neat on the bulkhead. Downside is the sound if you sit in traffic with your foot on the brake.
 
So the latest update. I adjusted the slack in the throttle cable so there is a bit of movement in the butterfly before the pump kicks in. I fully adjusted the flap so it's closed at idle and everything seems to be working as expected and I now I have servo-assisted brakes and no smoke at IDLE :).

Many Thanks as usual for everyone's help and guidance on this one.

Thanks
Richard
 
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