2.25 diesel just will not start.

Big Mat said:

Right all work has now stopped on this engine.

I tried advancing the pump with no luck. Engine just didnt seem right so i took of the rocker cover to check that the rocker i had replaced was still fine.

Then i found that another rocker had snapped in half!

When i first started having problems i discovered that rocker number 3 had snapped in half, i replaced this along with pump etc etc.

Now number 7 has snapped in half, i suspect something is seriously wrong inside the engine!

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you need someone more knowledgeable then me. initial thoughts are timing is screwed, cam knackered, stuck valves, valve clearances are set wrong. also have a look for bent pushrods.

Big Mat said:

Right all work has now stopped on this engine.

I tried advancing the pump with no luck. Engine just didnt seem right so i took of the rocker cover to check that the rocker i had replaced was still fine.

Then i found that another rocker had snapped in half!

When i first started having problems i discovered that rocker number 3 had snapped in half, i replaced this along with pump etc etc.

Now number 7 has snapped in half, i suspect something is seriously wrong inside the engine!

Click to expand...

Sounds like cam timng might be out and piston is hitting valves.

Turboman said:

Sounds like cam timng might be out and piston is hitting valves.

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What kind of damage would i be seeing from that? Bent pushrods?

What would i do to solve it? Replace valves and set cam timing?

it would bend push rods , another common fault can be the brass followers sticking in worn guides,youd need to feel how smooth the followers felt by turning engine over by hand whilst feeling each one

Big Mat said:

What kind of damage would i be seeing from that? Bent pushrods?

What would i do to solve it? Replace valves and set cam timing?

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Bent valves, bent pushrods, broken rockers,indents in piston crowns.
I think you may need to line up the crank at tdc and remove timing cover to check the alignment of the other sprockets. Its a long time since I have had one of these, I cant remember the exact tensioner setup and what marks you may have, any good manual shoud say.

Update:

So far on the stripping of the engine i've discovered that most of the push rods are bent, some quite badly and one has even had the last inch snapped off

Next off with the head i think and check valves. I suspect its going to be a case of giving this engine a complete rebuild. I was considering swapping engines, but buying a second hand engine is risky and i think i'd be happier knowing that the engine had been rebuild.

Big Mat said:

Update:

So far on the stripping of the engine i've discovered that most of the push rods are bent, some quite badly and one has even had the last inch snapped off

Next off with the head i think and check valves. I suspect its going to be a case of giving this engine a complete rebuild. I was considering swapping engines, but buying a second hand engine is risky and i think i'd be happier knowing that the engine had been rebuild.

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i had exactly the same idea but i started with a rebore and new pistons but thing is the geezer that did the rebore left all the **** from honing in the engine so that mixed with the oil and ground down evry working surface such as bearings and piston rings so now i gotta do pretty much evrything again with 60thou up rings and re hone the #### again meself

johnny curt 1 said:

i had exactly the same idea but i started with a rebore and new pistons but thing is the geezer that did the rebore left all the **** from honing in the engine so that mixed with the oil and ground down evry working surface such as bearings and piston rings so now i gotta do pretty much evrything again with 60thou up rings and re hone the #### again meself

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hope it goes well!

Head it off, going to remove all valves in the morning and check them. You could see where they had hit the pistons

Bit bent.

wow,done a proper job of them didnt ya! just make sure when the new pushrods go in,that they are all sitting in the cups properly,in those sliders,becuase they can take chuncks off the side of them,witch causes a missfire,just makesure they are seated properly,dont just throw them in! good luck with the rebuild!

Here are the valves



I checked them on a straight edge and they dont appear to be bent.

Here are the pistons









Pots 1 and 4 seemed to a slight lining of oil in them, could not feel any scores in the bores though.

check the follower guides and followers ,where tappets set correct ?

Id check the tops of those pistons fer cracks if that were mine

All yet need to do is get the piston to the top of the stroke and use a tough cloth like denim and some standard thinners get them as shiny as you can then let the piston down the stroke a little then pour enough thinners in there to cover the entire piston and leave it for a few hours

If yet rings are shot itll all drain out and still be clean if the piston is cracked itll have lifted the oil out of the crack showing exactly where it is by leaving the black oil behind

Tappets were set to 0.010 in the order that the land rover workshop manual says

Will check followers and guides in the morning.

only clean the top if at all ,they dont look cracked

What about the oil in the bores, should i check the pistons somehow?

The valves have clearly been touching. If it was mine, I'd go all the way and check crank shell and journals.

Can someone explain to me what james means by follower guides and followers? I tried looking in the land rover workshop manual but couldnt find them

Where your push rods go into the holes you will find a bronze block that the rod end sits in, and the guides are what they slide up and down in.
Linky