Freelander 1 [2.0 TD4] coolant leak

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ppol

Member
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27
Location
Europe
Hi,

I just bought my first Land Rover and I have this leaking surprise from it.

would you be able to help with diagnosis where this coolant leak is coming from?
It goes quite fast, about a drip every 5 seconds.

What I was able to see under the bonnet is on the pics.
There is no oil in the coolant and clean oil cap.
 

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There's an O ring that seals this pipe to the thermostat housing. That's a common place for a leak to develop. It's about a 4 hour job to fix a £1 O ring.
Screenshot_20190925-103502_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
It looks like the the O ring which should be in the bolted joint in your picture 5. It is difficult to change as the coolant rail is fixed to the engine and removing the thermostat, the lower bit, is very difficult without removing the engine mount and lifting the engine. I would dry this joint well with paper towel and confirm and then there are many threads on changing the O ring. I loosened the joint and injected sealant when mine went and it worked, others have not been so lucky.
 
thank you for the suggestions, I'll start with drying it and checking if it's the only place it's coming out
 
This may help!!!!!

kernowsvenski said:
On the subject of the M47 stat, not so much what I've done today, but more what a bit of a hero sorted for me today...

The coolant rail o-ring had been leaking for some time, and the original stat failed a long time ago. I'd been puttng both jobs off for some time given the difficulty. However, it had become pressing as I was loosing coolant and I have an iminent Lands End to John O'Groats run coming up. The R5 mod on it's own wouldn't cut it, so cue the legend...

Five hours of graft with undertray bolts that wouldn't shift. Original stat removed, cover replaced (with standard bolts put back rather than the difficult hex bolts).

I now have a toastie leak free freelander running well.

We were a bit concerned that the replacement o-ring wouldn't be up to the job, but I can confirm it's okay.
20190818_124725_resized-2-jpg.187227


Moving the engine about was a strugle but my knowledgable friend was on the case.

Original stat housing with stat removed...
20190818_124743_resized-2-jpg.187230

Replacing the hex bolts on the stat with standard bolts made a huge difference when putting it all back together.
20190818_132349_resized-2-jpg.187229
Click to expand...
 
I had a problem with that O-ring. Pain to get to with the engine in the car, but can be done through the opening for the track rod end as described above. I had only just refitted the engine for a clutch and gearbox change so wasn't a big job to drop it out again to get to the thermostat and fix it properly. If you are doing that job I would take the opportunity to change the thermostat at the same time.
 
Thanks for all suggestions.
I ordered the parts, now waiting for delivery.

Could you tell what kind of bolts I need to get? size and length?
I have no manual with the details, I ordered HAYNES book but waiting for the delivery.


In the meantime...
1. Do you thing it is possible to do the job without unscrewing the thermostat? Only by bending the "back water pipe"?
If I would unscrew the bolts mentioned in the @andyfreelandy quotation of @kernowsvenski post. (marked with the stars)

2. What about kind of a hack with inserting elastic coupling where I marked with blue square.
As a kind of future proof solution.
 

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Steve in Antrim said:
I had a problem with that O-ring. Pain to get to with the engine in the car, but can be done through the opening for the track rod end as described above. I had only just refitted the engine for a clutch and gearbox change so wasn't a big job to drop it out again to get to the thermostat and fix it properly. If you are doing that job I would take the opportunity to change the thermostat at the same time.
Click to expand...

If I understand you correctly, it should be enough to take the right wheel and the covers behind it to have an access to the bolts ant thermostat? Or just to the bolts.
 
If you release the offside engine mount you can move the engine up and down enough to get to the thermostat bolts through the opening for the track rod. However, it is not easy and you are largely working by feel. You have to remove the thermostat to replace the O-ring. The pipe does not move enough unless you unbolt it completely from the exhaust manifold, which is again nearly impossible to get to with the engine in the car. You need torx sockets for the bolts that hold the thermostat on. Can't remember the exact size.
 
ppol said:
Could you tell what kind of bolts I need to get? size and length?
Click to expand...
They're either M6 or M8, about 20-25mm long. I'll pop out to the car in a bit and have a look to confirm although @Nodge68 may remember. They are the same size as the bolt that connects the coolant rail to the stat housing.


ppol said:
1. Do you thing it is possible to do the job without unscrewing the thermostat? Only by bending the "back water pipe"?
If I would unscrew the bolts mentioned in the @andyfreelandy quotation of @kernowsvenski post. (marked with the stars)
Click to expand...
You won't get the pipe fully out of the stat housing so the stat needs to come off.
 
Ok.
I have everything set for tomorrow.
I ordered spare thermostat and water pump as well in case they're damaged.

Not sure if it's worth replacing at least thermostat once I have it disconnected.
I checked with previous owner, he did it about a year ago but didn't replaced the o-ring.

Thanks for all the tips, wish me luck ;-)
 
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