1986 Ex-Military 110

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Wonk

Active Member
Posts
64
Location
Bristol
Picked this up a couple years ago as an impulse buy. It was the only Defender I could afford and was less than 5 miles away.

I did some minimal work to get it through an MOT. Some questionable welding and patching of the rear cross member that had pulled out. Replaced the exhaust that had rusted away as well as the front shock turrets. Also did some rewiring after it shorted itself out the first time I drove it to work.

However that was only ever temporary so I could drive it and get some Defender experience.

Last summer I had to mothball it as I couldn’t run this and my Freelander and guarantee that they wouldn’t both be off the road at the same time.

The History

I found the military records online. It came out of the military in 2000 or so. During it’s time there it spent three years in Bosnia. In civilian life I am the third owner. I think it’s covered over half a million miles by now, going from MOT records and the previous owners information of the speedo cable only staying connected for about a week after each MOT.

The Plan

The plan and only long term option was always going to be a ground up restoration, while keeping the Ex-miltary character. So last winter I found some space in a shed and brought it in. I have been stripping it down slowly as I get some spare time. My main projects are electric conversions, so when I need a break from all that complication I can just come here and remove some nuts and bolts (spanner and grinder use is about 50/50)

The current idea in my head is to bikini soft top it, with a roll bar for some safety. Then paint it NATO desert brown to keep the military look. The body will be repaired to be functional. But I’ll keep the dents and deformities if I can. Personally I like a vehicle to show it’s history.

Engine wise it currently has a Disco 200 TDI with an R380 stumpy gearbox. I am thinking of swapping that out for the L series diesel in my Rover 25. It’s a successor to the Perkin Prima that have been put in Land Rovers before(as well as the Freelander), and also the precursor to the TD5. So there is some heritage there. It can be tuned up quite easily to roughly 300TDI output, but with better fuel economy which won’t take long to pay for itself. One day it will be electric, but not this time around.

The chassis is pretty ropey in places. Rear cross member will have to be replaced for certain. I am very hesitant about chassis replacement. This is the chassis with all the history, if I replace it then I just have a kit car with an old VIN. So I would rather repair this if I can. I will know more when I get it stripped down completely.


Will be pretty slow progress as this is just a side project. But I’ll keep it updated here.
 

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You need to clear coat that thing - looks like it’s been pulled out of a swamp :D

I do love the current patina. Shame the door don't match or I would seriously consider keeping it!

This is a semi-recent photo. It's now completely lacking a windscreen, dash and steering column. Picked up a rollbar from a friend who had one lying around, I'm liking the look.
 

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Welcome looks nice...wouldn't be to worried about replacing chassis most running gear gets replaced over the years and if you go electric you'll need a good chassis...just watched Hub Nut on youtube at an elecric classic car builder think he said his 110 did 0-60 in 2.8s...
 
Welcome looks nice...wouldn't be to worried about replacing chassis most running gear gets replaced over the years and if you go electric you'll need a good chassis...just watched Hub Nut on youtube at an elecric classic car builder think he said his 110 did 0-60 in 2.8s...

That's Richard Morgan at Electric Classic Cars. He is using a 450HP + Tesla large drive. When I do this one I won't be going for that sort of horse power. I suspect I will either go for a Nissan leaf motor into the gearbox, which is roughly a 300TDI in power output. Or preferably a Tesla model 3 drive in the same setup as you saw in that Youtube video so I can do a transmission tunnel delete, that's around 220HP. It depends what I find cheap at the time of doing it.
 
Got a few more parts off recently. If I am lucky the bolts snap off, if I am unlucky they round off. One or two have come off normally. Some components will probably take less time to put back on than they did to come off!

Chassis has a bit of rot in it at the front around the bulkhead outrigger. Front cross member is very good though.

Not sure if the bulkhead is salvageable. I haven't look into repairs on that yet but there are some pretty bad areas on it.

The rear tub only has the bolts on one side left to come out then that will be off as well once I find somewhere to put it. I have the parts to convert the engine from Disco to Defender so I'll also do that in situ and give it a little run up, then put that up for sale.
Not sure what I will do with the gearbox yet. I can get my hands on an LT77 with the adaptor plate for a Perkins Prima, so I could swap that in and hopefully it will be pretty close to the L series bolt hole pattern. But on the other hand making up adaptor plates is pretty simple, and I know this gearbox is pretty good.
 

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Got the rear tub off recently. Chassis has three main areas of rot. Rear cross member which is already going to be replaced. Front outriggers which are easy enough. Then the A frame cross member, which is slightly more tricky but apparently common enough and replaceable.
Does look pretty bad though. But I'm confident I can revive it.

Body wise the bulkhead is not in great shape. Allot of rot in allot of places, that might have to be replaced. The tub is also pretty bad, lots of corrosion around earthing points and the underfloor supports. I know someone who can build them up from scratch so I might do that, which will give me some freedom in getting it made up with some custom storage boxes.

Currently half way through swapping out Disco for Defender manifolds and auxiliaries on the engine. Then that can be sold on and I will have some money for chassis parts.

Plan is to sell on the engine, Get the axles off then send the chassis for shot blasting and see what comes back. Hopefully enough comes back to weld new parts onto and the rebuild can start. Still pretty slow progress as this is not my main project.
 

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@Wonk
I’m sure I have seen this motor Sat on the trailer,
If it the same 1, I thought it would make a good project. Keep up the good work & loving the photos & updates
 
Very brave sticking with the original chassis. But then after shotblasting it might not be quite as bad as it looks.
 
Very brave sticking with the original chassis. But then after shotblasting it might not be quite as bad as it looks.

Problem is if it shows a lot of rot and needs a lot of repair then the whole chassis inside is the same..the S2 bulkhead I'm working on needs patching in footwells and the top rail and vent openings repaired if door pillars and windscreen bracket area were rotten I would have said to owner better replace did find more rust though...
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@Wonk
I’m sure I have seen this motor Sat on the trailer,
If it the same 1, I thought it would make a good project. Keep up the good work & loving the photos & updates

I'm pretty sure it hasn't been on a trailer for a while. It was driven around the Mendips in the 2010s before being parked up in a wood for two years. I got it "road worthy" and MoTed before I drove it around a little while and then took it to the farm for this restoration. I do wish I could spend more time on it occasionally, but I need to actually finish some previous projects!

Very brave sticking with the original chassis. But then after shotblasting it might not be quite as bad as it looks.
I'm in the fortunate position to work at a vehicle restomodder so I have a good few work colleges I can call on for advice. We have certainly seen worse chassis come through and been repaired.
 
It's been a slow year for the poor Land Rover, other projects have taken priority and I have been fairly laser focused on them.

The engine got sold back in January to live a new life in a Turners Offroad build. The money then got turned into Chassis replacement parts. I made the decision recently to make it electric in this build now. The reason for the L series was to take it up to do the NC500, but it was allot of work for just one trip and it didn't really make sense to put all that time into something temporary, the L series swap would probably not be that quick and easy.

So the electric plan is to use a Lexus GS450H hybrid gearbox to a divorced LT230. The motor is very torquey and capable of 200+hp depending on battery voltage which is more than enough for me.

It's still a secondary project, but now it's the next in the que for main projects. Planning to bring it into the workshop around September time for the chassis work. Until then I'll look to sell off the R380 stumpy and keep collecting parts.
 
The project is alive again! Took a bit longer than I expected to get back to this. Now it's the primary project at least until the initial field tests are done with the electric Leyland, which might take a while if it keeps bloody raining.

I finally removed the gearbox and transfer box from the chassis today, then I'm planning to get the chassis onto the car lift for a friend to scan. This should help with designing mounts for the new gearbox and battery box mounts etc. After that I'll get it into the workshop proper for the chassis repairs.

Meanwhile I can make a start on some of the smaller jobs. First up is the heater box. I've stripped that down and found a couple broken blade on the fan. I'm thinking I might replace the fan motor with something PWM controllable so I have a little bit more fine control over fan speed.
I have a HV PTC heater core coming from a VW ID3, it shouldn't be too hard to get fitted and will give me heat within a few seconds which will be nice in the winter!

I'm also going to make a start stripping down the Transfer box, it's a 1.22 box now but I have the gears to make it a 1.41 which I would prefer.
 

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The ID3 HV heater matrix fits perfectly into the heater box. I had to remove the internals of the box since the matrix goes right across the width of the box. But since it's controllable I didn't need the first flap for heat control. Having a CNC plasma cutter at work was quite useful for making up some plates.

I'm also swapping the blower out for one from a Rover 45, I happened to be scrapping one so I took out the fan, resistor pack and fan speed controls. It's way more powerful and now I'll have some actual control over fan speeds.
 

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