1986 90 rebuild / restore

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Hand painted Keswick green , very pleased with the result got a few runs which I will sand and repainted when fully dried , but overall very pleased

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Got a couple of hours while little one was sleeping to get some bits on ... chequered plating wing tops and rear corners , wheels , bonnet and front grill
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O yeah and Land Rover 90
Sticker
 
Roof almost on what a f***ing nightmare getting doors aligned is especially with new rubbers!! It's about 90% there probably the same as original then! Also rear lights in .....had to do something else when getting to stressed with doors and roof

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Just finished of tying the roof down today as needed a break from it so we went to the pub instead..o_O:)
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Ps pic from last year didn't take a pic of pints and dogs today :( but you get the idea
 
Ok. You need to detail your painting steps/technique as keswick is what I want to use on mine and I want the same results as you!

Ok .... first prep of old paint doesn't matter how bad original paint is do not go mad on heavy grit, as you will spend longer trying so remove sanding marks as you will sanding slower with a finer grit !!
I used 120 on da all over then assess bad areas ( corrosion , dents & scratches) I'm was never bothered about dents it's just like quirks of an old oak tree just character.

If you have any oxidising use a more aggressive paper 80 max to remove problems then smooth out with 120.

Then etch primer allow to dry and this will reveal some of the other minor imperfections use 120 grit if serious or 250 by hand it just light scratches , etch over fixed area and flat back with 400/500 grit.

High build primer use u-pol it's more expensive but worth it 1st coat flat back with 400 2nd coat 500 .

I used paint from https://www.paintman.co.uk/ awesome stuff but prep is key ,

So once everything was primerd and flatted back with 500 grit wash with damp sponge and panel wide leave to dry for at least 24 hours then panel wipe again before paint .

Painting .... make sure paint is warm I put mine in a bowl of warm water for 10 mins then shakes for 2 mins .
Work a panel at a time with a foam roller covering the whole panel with horizontal and vertical strokes getting a good even coat with out pushing to hard or causing runs, some will happen but can be sanded back in once fully dried , then lay off with a quality brush I used 2" with smooth virtical strokes same direction on every panel!

Use a 1" brush on tricky area but always finish with virtical strokes .

That's it but prep is key , it's never going to look as good a sprayed but £80 on 5l of paint still got 2 left and £100 on primer & sand paper I'm pretty happy and can be touched up very easy!!!

( sorry about spelling and punctuation I have been at the pub lol)
 
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Ok .... first prep of old paint doesn't matter how bad original paint is do not go mad on heavy grit, as you will spend longer trying so remove sanding marks as you will sanding slower with a finer grit !!
I used 120 on da all over then assess bad areas ( corrosion , dents & scratches) I'm was never bothered about dents it's just like quirks of an old oak tree just character.

If you have any oxidising use a more aggressive paper 80 max to remove problems then smooth out with 120.

Then etch primer allow to dry and this will reveal some of the other minor imperfections use 120 grit if serious or 250 by hand it just light scratches , etch over fixed area and flat back with 400/500 grit.

High build primer use u-pol it's more expensive but worth it 1st coat flat back with 400 2nd coat 500 .

I used paint from https://www.paintman.co.uk/ awesome stuff but prep is key ,

So once everything was primerd and flatted back with 500 grit wash with damp sponge and panel wide leave to dry for at least 24 hours then panel wipe again before paint .

Painting .... make sure paint is warm I put mine in a bowl of warm water for 10 mins then shakes for 2 mins .
Work a panel at a time with a foam roller covering the whole panel with horizontal and vertical strokes getting a good even coat with out pushing to hard or causing runs, some will happen but can be sanded back in once fully dried , then lay off with a quality brush I used 2" with smooth virtical strokes same direction on every panel!

Use a 1" brush on tricky area but always finish with virtical strokes .

That's it but prep is key , it's never going to look as good a sprayed but £80 on 5l of paint still got 2 left and £100 on primer & sand paper I'm pretty happy and can be touched up very easy!!!

( sorry about spelling and punctuation I have been at the pub lol)
Wow thanks so much for the detail. So going to do this!
 
I've been flat out trying to get her finished and she is 99% complete , still odd bit to sort like centre seat waiting for cover from exmoor , steering shroud etc but ..... mot booked in for Wednesday.
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