12s auxiliary socket quick check.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Lazylabs

Member
Posts
94
Location
LIncoln, UK
Hi All

Now I've read through the multiple of posts on here about the 12s caravan socket and I'm just as confused haha.

I already have 12n electrics connected on the rh side of car. I need to add the 12s wiring and upgrade to 13 pin as van has 13 pin.

I have the connector on the lh side behind the cd changer. I also have the official cable amr3007 towing harness that plugs into this connector. My understanding is this gives me reversing lights. Switch live for fridge and battery charging and a ground connection?

So my question. Do I still need to run a live feed from battery, fused and through a relay to the perm live pin on the 13 pin socket?

I only want to have the fridge and battery on charge while towing.

If you still need the direct feed from battery what's the point of the prewired connector on the car? Rave says its a 10amp supply?

What's the difference between the pre wired 10amp supply and the likes of a split charge relay? Is it just providing a greater supply?

If I put the split charge relay in can I put a auxiliary socket (cig lighter socket) in the boot?

Ok so maybe more than one question haha. That's p38's for u.

Cheers in advance.

Al
 
Hi All

Now I've read through the multiple of posts on here about the 12s caravan socket and I'm just as confused haha.

I already have 12n electrics connected on the rh side of car. I need to add the 12s wiring and upgrade to 13 pin as van has 13 pin.

I have the connector on the lh side behind the cd changer. I also have the official cable amr3007 towing harness that plugs into this connector. My understanding is this gives me reversing lights. Switch live for fridge and battery charging and a ground connection?

So my question. Do I still need to run a live feed from battery, fused and through a relay to the perm live pin on the 13 pin socket?

Yes If you want power to the fridge IMO. The switch live is not for the fridge but interior lights and charging the caravan battery, at least it is on my caravan. The fridge might draw more than 10 amps so normally needs a seperate supply. Check your caravan wiring diagram. I have put in a separate 6mm supply in with a relay to isolate it when the engine is off to avoid flattening the P38 battery.

I only want to have the fridge and battery on charge while towing.

If you still need the direct feed from battery what's the point of the prewired connector on the car? Rave says its a 10amp supply?

As above

What's the difference between the pre wired 10amp supply and the likes of a split charge relay? Is it just providing a greater supply?

If I put the split charge relay in can I put a auxiliary socket (cig lighter socket) in the boot?

Ok so maybe more than one question haha. That's p38's for u.

Cheers in advance.

Al
You can out an aux cig lighter in the boot regardless, mine has one as standard and I added a second one that is on the direct permanently 6mm line so I can plug a solar panel in.
 
I ran 2 new wires straight from the battery and through an TEC3m from ebay, it provides a permanent and engine running live by sensing voltage and bypasses any worry about drawing too much through the becm controlled live. If your van has ATC you will need to as that requires between 15-20A to work.
 
Piece of cake, run it underneath and tie them up out of the way. Poke wires through n/s through the grommet there. Obviously fuse them at the battery.
 
Back
Top