110

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TR3a

Active Member
Posts
139
Location
Lincolnshire
View attachment 289013
I have just about finished the rebuild on my 110 TD.
New chassis, brakes, engine rebuild, new body panels…etc,etc,etc.
The project grew like Topsy, the usual excuse was….well I’ve got this far so I might as well!!!!
The only issue I have is that the brake pedal is a bit long…..not overly so, but I can’t get it right to the top…..pumping doesn’t help so no air in system. New pads, shoes, wheel cylinders and master cylinder.
any thoughts on what is acceptable.
also what mpg is to be expected for normal road going. The engine is the original 19TD.
 
Nice job on the 110, noy many left with a 19j today I recon.
Brake master rod may need adjustment, it only needs a tad of free play to work correctly.
Nice dog by the way, don't know if any attachments important but you may want to remove them.
 
Thx, now edited.

So how is the master cylinder pushrod adjustable?

When I started this I was told that the 19j had really bad press. My engine had a bent conrod and cracks all over the combustion chambers. Some or all of this may be due to the engine racing away due to a split boost diaphragm feeding diesel into the engine. We used it on a farm as a beaters truck……driven by anyone and looked after by no one. If left to idle the engine would suddenly run away in clouds of white smoke!!
This was the archetypal work horse, it was used and abused for 10 years. When the foot brake failed we used the handbrake. When that failed either turn the engine off in gear or drive it into a ploughed field until it stopped. The beaters got very good at getting it to stop in the right place.

I found another head and conrods and decided to rebore it and re grind the crank, although it probably didn’t need it.

Through the last two winters it would sit for weeks but 10 seconds of heat and would start instantly.

As for driving it goes quite well…..for a Land Rover…..certainly better that Series petrol or diesels. It did 240000 miles before the engine rebuild, so in my opinion 19Js might be a bit slower than 200 and 300tdis but I don’t want a racing Land Rover.

Not sure what to do with it now…..it was taken on as a Covid project.
 

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Sounds like your 19j went the way they usually did but many miles later than most. Mine did 12400k, yours probably lasted because it spent time pottering around the farm more than thrashed down the motor way. Mine was worked hard heavy towing.
Given the work done and with care, usual oil change and keeping cooling system good could go on for years.
Master is adjusted on the rod in the top of the pedal box, a right fiddle the land rover way. Best to remove master [ no need to remove brake pipes ] just move forward enough so that when someone or a bit of wood holds the pedal down the rod comes out and adjusted. Bit of a trial and error job to get right.
 
Thx, now edited.

So how is the master cylinder pushrod adjustable?

When I started this I was told that the 19j had really bad press. My engine had a bent conrod and cracks all over the combustion chambers. Some or all of this may be due to the engine racing away due to a split boost diaphragm feeding diesel into the engine. We used it on a farm as a beaters truck……driven by anyone and looked after by no one. If left to idle the engine would suddenly run away in clouds of white smoke!!
This was the archetypal work horse, it was used and abused for 10 years. When the foot brake failed we used the handbrake. When that failed either turn the engine off in gear or drive it into a ploughed field until it stopped. The beaters got very good at getting it to stop in the right place.

I found another head and conrods and decided to rebore it and re grind the crank, although it probably didn’t need it.

Through the last two winters it would sit for weeks but 10 seconds of heat and would start instantly.
As for driving it goes quite well…..for a Land Rover…..certainly better that Series petrol or diesels. It did 240000 miles before the engine rebuild, so in my opinion 19Js might be a bit slower than 200 and 300tdis but I don’t want a racing Land Rover.

Not sure what to do with it now…..it was taken on as a Covid project.
How about that idle speed? The master's regulating rod can be tightened down to almost eliminate any slack.
 
I finally managed to sort this…..I had used Britpart shoes. Now fitted OEM quality. The pedal is now at the top and no longer spongy.
 
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