10w/40 Magnatec Semi Synth

Would anyone recommend 10w/40 Magnatec Semi Synth oil in my 2004 4.4? Has 150k on the clock.

Or any other makes?

Ppsvogue said:

Would anyone recommend 10w/40 Magnatec Semi Synth oil in my 2004 4.4? Has 150k on the clock.

Or any other makes?

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Look at the owners manual and see if the oil meets the required specification.

Any oil that meets the specification will be fine

I never bothered with spending triple the price on designer makes of oil
Eg castrol

Always used 20l barrels of my local motor factors own brand

Have been told many times to not use what the manual says because it is a older high mileage engine now!?!?

Ppsvogue said:

Have been told many times to not use what the manual says because it is a older high mileage engine now!?!?

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Bull****. It's not even very high mileage. Personally I prefer full synth.

Deffo pay the extra for fully Synt

2.0_hippo said:

Deffo pay the extra for fully Synt

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Quite cheap over here at times when they have a promo

Synthetic usually just means longer intervals can be used. If you change it at least every 5k miles then no advantage.

Seem to remember someone on here used to make oils and said they were pretty much of a muchness apart from Shell Mobil 1 which no-one could improve upon at the time.

Grrrrrr said:

Synthetic usually just means longer intervals can be used. If you change it at least every 5k miles then no advantage.

Seem to remember someone on here used to make oils and said they were pretty much of a muchness apart from Shell Mobil 1 which no-one could improve upon at the time.

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I do not agree with that, full synth 5W40 and 6K service intervals is better than cheapo mineral. Modulation is still in spec on my P38, at 117K miles, look how many have hot start problems. Wammers has had to change the chain on his and he's an advocate of cheap mineral oil with frequent changes.
Not a scientific analysis but good enough for me.

Not sure I'd go as far as cheap mineral oil but semi-synthetic as per manual has worked for all my cars and the engines have been working perfectly when the rest rotted away. I don't let the oil stay more than 5k miles though.

Ok guys thank you for the help

Must say i use a good oil and still do oil and filter change every 6k.

This is what mine gets, I left it in for about 6K miles. I did a flush using two bottles of forte and then a genuine filter, I have a 2004 4.4.
I still get a slight start up rattle occasionally which is probably vanos seals

Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil SHE-514-10 - 2x5L = 10 Litre | eBay

FORTE ADVANCED FORMULA MOTOR FLUSH ENGINE FLUSH - 400ML | eBay

Genuine L322 Range Rover M62 4.4 V8 Petrol Oil Filter | eBay

200ml of petrol (mixed with a little engine oil) makes a perfectly good engine flush. Anything else is a waste of money - and of course on abused sludged up engines I'd leave the sludge where it is rather than encourage it to disperse into the oil and block all your oilways.

Grrrrrr said:

Synthetic usually just means longer intervals can be used. If you change it at least every 5k miles then no advantage.

Seem to remember someone on here used to make oils and said they were pretty much of a muchness apart from Shell Mobil 1 which no-one could improve upon at the time.

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Sounds a bit like one of my posts - Mobil 1 massively outperforms everything else (or used to when I was in the industry).

C****** synthetics aren't, other than that the majority of fully and semi-synths are pretty much as good as each other.

If you want to see how good your synth stock is - look up the cold pour point of the oil - the lower the better. if the cold pour point of your "synth" is in the same range as similar weight semi-synth or mineral oils - then you're being sold a pup. Since C******'s financial might got the rules bent so they could call their blended oils synthetic then you can be legally misled - yes their oils are perfectly good semi-synths - but that's all they are - sold at premium prices. Oil being a hazardous product must have full hazard specifications available to the public so you can usually download these hazard sheets from the manufacturer's website - where useful stats such as the cold pour point can be gleaned.

Might well have been you, Steve. I'e got a terrible memory for names.

Really useful info there. I must try to remember that!