1.8 XEI won't start!

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FreeAnger

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Hi all, first post ;)

I've got a 2005 Freelander 1.8xei and its been great...seriously has! thats until the head gasket went!

I used to be a mechanic so replacing the headgasket replacement on my trusted stallion was no problem!

Ok now here's were the problem started- After replacing the headgasket i refitted everything back. flushed the coolant and engine oil. I went ot start her...and nothing! The instrument panels light up, relays can be herd clicking (1 in engine bay and 1 inside fusebox).

I tried to jump start it off another battery, still no joy. I removed the earth strap and cleaned it. Checked the voltage from the small wire on the starter and 0v! I've checked the fuses in the engine bay (Fuse box n/s) and the fuses under the steering.
I've also tried to connect the car upto my diagnosis machine. It won't communicate :(

Really really confused!

Any help or guidence would be appreciated

Philip
 
so is it turning over
is the fuel pipe connected,
is all the wiring connected

if yes to all these, recheck the timing on the cambelts,it is easy to get this wrong
is it dizzy or coil packs?
 
freelance said:
so is it turning over
is the fuel pipe connected,
is all the wiring connected

if yes to all these, recheck the timing on the cambelts,it is easy to get this wrong
is it dizzy or coil packs?
Click to expand...

Just gone over the engine again to make sure:

fuel pipe is connected, all the plugs are connected, I removed each one again and applied contact cleaner hoping that wouold help.

Its not turning over, all the dash light are as normal and the relays can be herd clicking. No sound from the started solenoid either.

Its coil pack

Forgot to mention that I applied a direct 12v to the small terminal of the starter as well with the ignition on, all it did was crank

Thanks
 
Sounds like some sort of immobiliser issue to me. Do the other electrics work ok such as remote central locking? If so, I believe there is a way to disable the immobiliser via turning the key. Others may give you better info on this.
I had the same sort of thing after taking mine to the MOT garage. I found that when i removed the battery from the fob and re-inserted it, it worked fine. Give it a go.
 
whythehellnot? said:
Sounds like some sort of immobiliser issue to me. Do the other electrics work ok such as remote central locking? If so, I believe there is a way to disable the immobiliser via turning the key. Others may give you better info on this.
I had the same sort of thing after taking mine to the MOT garage. I found that when i removed the battery from the fob and re-inserted it, it worked fine. Give it a go.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, i was thinking on the same lines.

All the electrics work including the remote locking/unlocking

If someone can inform me on how to that, it would be great! i know this could be sensitive information so i'd prefer on a PM.

philip
 
Last edited:
freelance said:
are you getting power to the little starter wire when key is turned,is perhaps the ign. switch dodgy.
Click to expand...


No power to the little wire on the started motor whilst the ignition is switched on.

Do you recon that could be related to the ign switched? i've removed the plug connector on that as well can't see anything.

i'm going to order a ign switch and try that out, getting a bit despirate
 
Just removed the ign switch and cleaned with contact cleaner. I fitted the plug connector back on tightly as well. As i tried to start her i noticed the TEMP neadle shot straight up to the red and the red warning light flashed!



Really confused now!
 
Update:

I removed and cleaned all the plug and connectors. Fitted the new ignition switch....still no good.

Anyone please help!
 
You say there is no 12v at the small starter connector when the key is turned?
But that it cranks when you apply a direct 12v.
When you turn the key does the fuel pump run for a few seconds?
If not - have you tried re-setting the cut out switch under the bonnet?
Just a thought.
 
Try
Fuse 5 passenger compartment 10 amp
Link 7 engine compartment 40 amp
Link 1 engine compartment 150 amp
Link 3 engine compartmant 60 amp
Cam shaft sensor and crankshaft sensor.( see attachment )
Ignition switch
Immobiliser
 

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Thanks for the reply guys.

It only cranks when 12v is applied to the small wire on the starter. I did reset the "cut out switch" under the bonnet.

ianda12 - I've checked all the fuses you've mentioned and the "links" all tested ok with the multimeter

I've fitted a new ignition switch from Land rover.

How can I tell if the immobiliser and crankshaft sensor is at fault.

I really need it back on the road, esp with the dire weather conditions.

All help is appreciated!
 
Check agian - does the fuel pump run? :confused:
If it's still not cranking don't worry about the crank sensor - that times the spark and it ain't gett'in that far yet. :(
The attached pic shows the circuit path for the starter from the RAVE (your colours, fuse numbers and pinouts may differ as it's a facelift).
The orange path is the 12v to engage the starter - 12 volts via the relay to the small starter terminal.
The blue path is the 12v via the fuses & ignition switch into the imobiliser - where it needs the signal from the inertia switch - then on to the starter relay coil. When the orange path is complete the blue path operates to crank the starter.

If the fuel pump is running then inertia switch is ok. :)
If the starter relay is 'ticking' then the Imobiliser is ok. :)
If both these things happen but the starter does not crank then start looking from the 12v into the relay towards the starter small terminal. ;)
Can't remember if the relay is one of the many yellow standard ones - if so you could try a temorary swap just to check it out?
If the starter relay is not 'ticking' - it gets messy sorting out the 12v into and out of the immobiliser - then you're possibly looking at an immobiliser fault? :(

Keep the feedback coming :)
 

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TD John said:
Check agian - does the fuel pump run? :confused:
If it's still not cranking don't worry about the crank sensor - that times the spark and it ain't gett'in that far yet. :(
The attached pic shows the circuit path for the starter from the RAVE (your colours, fuse numbers and pinouts may differ as it's a facelift).
The orange path is the 12v to engage the starter - 12 volts via the relay to the small starter terminal.
The blue path is the 12v via the fuses & ignition switch into the imobiliser - where it needs the signal from the inertia switch - then on to the starter relay coil. When the orange path is complete the blue path operates to crank the starter.

If the fuel pump is running then inertia switch is ok. :)
If the starter relay is 'ticking' then the Imobiliser is ok. :)
If both these things happen but the starter does not crank then start looking from the 12v into the relay towards the starter small terminal. ;)
Can't remember if the relay is one of the many yellow standard ones - if so you could try a temorary swap just to check it out?
If the starter relay is not 'ticking' - it gets messy sorting out the 12v into and out of the immobiliser - then you're possibly looking at an immobiliser fault? :(

Keep the feedback coming :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply John.

I've just come back from trying a few things.

Ok here's what i've found so far:

*Fuel pump not priming
*No cranking, only dash lights illuminate as per normal
*Starter relays clicking on attempting to startup (they are the yellow ones) - I've swapped them around as there are 3 of the same ones
*Checked all the fuses and link fuses as well
*When the ignition is turned the temperature guage shoots up to the red and the warning light flashes!
* I've removed earth staps and cleaned up with emry paper
*Removed coolant temp sensor plug and cleaned using contact cleaner
*Reset inertia switch

I'll trace the wiring diagram you have attached John thanks.

If the temp gauge warning light flashes and shoots up to red, would that prevent it from starting? ( i think it could be that, but i'm an old boy and haven't been in the trade for years)
 
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