0:FL signal incorrect?

thepipersson said:

So this is the point where I eat humble pie...

Datatek looks like you were right all along, I took your advice and cleaned the earth point's with a wire brush that you mentioned in the wing. At the same time I changed the relay under the passenger seat and the one in the fuse box, I also pulled out the valve block and double checked every thing put it all back together and thought instead of going through the ECU I had just bought I would try the original one and it worked and is still working.. So I'm guessing earthling fault was causing as you suggested. But what ever it was THANK YOU!!

Now it is still showing, 0:FL signal incorrect, so my plan is to change all the height sensors with new ones and see what happens. Do you think that is a good place to start? if not what would you do first (and yes this time I did try to clear the faults before getting excited lol)

Click to expand...

thepipersson said:

Well I have given them all a clean but still no joy, so it's going to have to wait till Friday now... pay day I'm not going to buy a second hand one. Is this a good price RANGE ROVER P38 L/H FRONT HEIGHT SENSOR KIT TO`97 OE | eBay Or would you recommend going else where?

Click to expand...

thepipersson said:

Well I have given them all a clean but still no joy, so it's going to have to wait till Friday now... pay day I'm not going to buy a second hand one. Is this a good price RANGE ROVER P38 L/H FRONT HEIGHT SENSOR KIT TO`97 OE | eBay Or would you recommend going else where?

Click to expand...

wammers said:

If you don't need all the gubbins this is cheaper. Front Height Sensor (VA346794 on) ANR4686 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Click to expand...

thepipersson said:

Spot on! they are only half hour up the road to I take it I could check continuity to that point, all being well buy a new sensor and that could (touch wood) solve it?

Click to expand...

thepipersson said:

Almost there!!! Ok so I'm now in a position where I can read the codes again (still need to put my car back together though lol)

When I read the faults it comes back with NO FAULTS whoop whoop, HOWEVER!!! as soon as I push stop it locks the EAS again, putting the 35mph warning up BUT my kicker lite has cleared it but it still wont go back up.... any ideas??

Click to expand...

Datatek said:

That's normal, you stop the software, it gives the 35mph message in response, turn off the ignition, unplug the cable, ignition back on and all should be well. No need for a kicker.
I assume you had the green "Good Idle" and you hit the UNLOCK EAS button? Just reading the faults does not clear them, you have to UNLOCK.
If it still does not come up, check the compressor runs and follow Wammers "How To" to check for air pressure.

Click to expand...

thepipersson said:

Ahh I didn't know that, nor did I try it, but yes I have a good idle and I have no faults on the message board

I did follow Wammers advice how to a while ago when I first started this and got as far as there was air coming out of the silencer but he advised me to wait until I got the software as I would just be guessing.

I'm off to get some more diesel, as it has sat there on tick over just burning away.. then I'm going to leave it open for 20 mins and see what happens when I close the door

Click to expand...

wammers said:

If all the faults are gone and you still have air coming from the silencer. Diaphragm is duff. It will never go up until you fix it. 20 minutes is too long to leave the compressor running. If all is good the car should rise when you shut the door after 5 to 6 minutes and rise and compressor stop with doors shut in 10 to 11 minutes.

Click to expand...

wammers said:

If all the faults are gone and you still have air coming from the silencer. Diaphragm is duff. It will never go up until you fix it. 20 minutes is too long to leave the compressor running. If all is good the car should rise when you shut the door after 5 to 6 minutes and rise and compressor stop with doors shut in 10 to 11 minutes.

Click to expand...

thepipersson said:

Ok I left the door open for 5 minutes to try and build some pressure and left it running for 15 minutes and had no response... So I'm going to take the valve block out again and check out the Diaphragm, As said I used a kit to renew it all, so could I of a) done something wrong or b) is it the little solenoid that could be at fault?? I do have a spare block but apparently the car use to rise up at one side... but would I be right in saying the solenoid should be ok??

Click to expand...

wammers said:

If the car rose on one side with your other block. The solenoid coils are in the wrong places. Rear should always rise first followed by front. If you look in my how to there is a valve block repair link. In that is a diagram of where the coils should go from their wire positions on the plug. For ease look at this.
EAS Valve Block Rebuild Guide | PaulP38A.com

Click to expand...

thepipersson said:

:cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2:

IT'S ALIVE I TELL YOU

So after all this she has gone up, I changed the diaphragm with the one on the old unit and she went up straight away!!!

A MASSIVE THANK YOU!!!! to all you guys, you have been great and have managed to work wonders, with a novice. I would have been screwed with out you so it really is appreciated

Now all I need to do is try and sort this SRS light out and it should be plain sailing... LMFAO

Click to expand...