0:FL signal incorrect?

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thepipersson

New Member
Posts
109
Location
hythe, Kent, UK
Ok guys, thanks again for all your help getting my ECU to connect,

Now I'm after some more ideas on what to check, I have fault code 0:FL signal incorrect, so anybody know where I should start and what to check? Please bear in mind I have just done a valve block rebuild so could the problem be there??

I'm getting so close to it going back up now, I'm getting excited whoop whoop LMAO (small minds and all that)
 
If it says FL signal incorrect that is what it means, the signal from the front left sensor is incorrect. Can't be anything to do with valve block.
 
great stuff Ill check the site out now, as said in the other thread I have checked all the connectors for corrosion but all is well there but that said I think I may just replace the height sensors anyway, I bet they have been on there since 1995 lol
 
thepipersson said:
Quick question can I run the software whilst the car is running??
Click to expand...
The suspension is inactive when the software is running and it would be dangerous to try and get readings while you are driving. No need to be moving to see what is going on, just go to the TAB for sensor heights and read them, odds on the FL reading will be way different to the others. I suppose you have tried clearing the fault to prove it's not historic?
 
What an actual bell end LMFAO!! NO I didn't!!!! can you believe that?? so excited I got a fault I didn't try to clear it just straight back inside to find out what it was!!!!! SORRY I AM A COCK (where is that hole I just dug? feel a little bit small now), sorry just thinking of the battery, it's a bit lame after being sat there for so long (even I wouldn't try looking at a laptop whilst driving, funny thought though)

Right I'm going back to it!! I fully expect the **** to be taken out of me for that, and don't be shy I can take it!!!

Bye for now
 
thepipersson said:
What an actual bell end LMFAO!! NO I didn't!!!! can you believe that?? so excited I got a fault I didn't try to clear it just straight back inside to find out what it was!!!!! SORRY I AM A COCK (where is that hole I just dug? feel a little bit small now), sorry just thinking of the battery, it's a bit lame after being sat there for so long (even I wouldn't try looking at a laptop whilst driving, funny thought though)

Right I'm going back to it!! I fully expect the **** to be taken out of me for that, and don't be shy I can take it!!!

Bye for now
Click to expand...
You can do all the checks with the engine running, in fact it's essential if you spend much time on it or the battery will go flat.
 
Strange, I done all the o rings in my valve block! Put it all back together and EAS error FL signal incorrect!!
 
stueep38 said:
Strange, I done all the o rings in my valve block! Put it all back together and EAS error FL signal incorrect!!
Click to expand...
Assuming you have got the valve block back together correctly and the pipes in the right holes, it seems to me that FL is often the one to fail first. I think it takes the most use with running on the edge of the road. It was the first to fail on mine.
 
OMFG... Guess what, -NO-IDLE- AGAIN!!!:mad::5bbanghead::5bbanghead::censored:

Now my battery is dead, I cant do anything until tomorrow!!

Do you think something could be frying my ECU's??? I can not see how one ECU would not work replace get good idle, go back half hour later and it does not work? any ideas as to why?
 
thepipersson said:
OMFG... Guess what, -NO-IDLE- AGAIN!!!:mad::5bbanghead::5bbanghead::censored:

Now my battery is dead, I cant do anything until tomorrow!!

Do you think something could be frying my ECU's??? I can not see how one ECU would not work replace get good idle, go back half hour later and it does not work? any ideas as to why?
Click to expand...
Low battery volts would be a reasonable supposition. Otherwise we are back to corrosion somewhere unless your alternator is seriously up the creak.
 
So your saying there is a good chance it could be getting fired due to the battery being knackered? so I will have to go and buy another ECU and a battery and maybe even a alternator then, get's better by the minute.

See I told you (If I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any!!)
 
thepipersson said:
So your saying there is a good chance it could be getting fired due to the battery being knackered? so I will have to go and buy another ECU and a battery and maybe even a alternator then, get's better by the minute.

See I told you (If I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any!!)
Click to expand...
No, I did not say that. I said that low battery volts is likely to be why you cannot get good idle.
Working on the EAS for any length of time you need the engine running to keep the battery up.
If another EAS ECU has failed there is something seriously amiss.
 
Oh sorry I misunderstood what you meant... hopefully when the battery is fully charged it will work again. (I doubt it though) any ideas what could cause it to keep doing that?
 
Do you think it could be something I have done to the valve block/compressor, that is the only thing that has been changed and the ECU's are now not behaving, coincidence??
 
thepipersson said:
Do you think it could be something I have done to the valve block/compressor, that is the only thing that has been changed and the ECU's are now not behaving, coincidence??
Click to expand...
Bad earthing points, check on the wing between the EAS box and the airfilter, connectors in the kick panels, wires on the back of the OBD connector etc. I'm still not convinced your original ECU is duff.
If something external was frying ECU's, the BECM would be among the first to die:eek:
 
Datatek said:
Bad earthing points, check on the wing between the EAS box and the airfilter, connectors in the kick panels, wires on the back of the OBD connector etc. I'm still not convinced your original ECU is duff.
If something external was frying ECU's, the BECM would be among the first to die:eek:
Click to expand...

So this is the point where I eat humble pie...

Datatek looks like you were right all along, I took your advice and cleaned the earth point's with a wire brush that you mentioned in the wing. At the same time I changed the relay under the passenger seat and the one in the fuse box, I also pulled out the valve block and double checked every thing put it all back together and thought instead of going through the ECU I had just bought I would try the original one and it worked and is still working.. So I'm guessing earthling fault was causing as you suggested. But what ever it was THANK YOU!!

Now it is still showing, 0:FL signal incorrect, so my plan is to change all the height sensors with new ones and see what happens. Do you think that is a good place to start? if not what would you do first (and yes this time I did try to clear the faults before getting excited lol)
 
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