Freelander 1 “Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover”

According to my recent MOT certificate, the above item is “severely deteriorated” on one side. The mechanic advised me to get it sorted ASAP or “it would bite” me, so I’m assuming it’s something like a CV boot where you want to replace the rubber before the joint itself gets damaged by incoming crud.

One way or another I’ve spent a fair bit of time under this car, but I’m not familiar with this particular thing. I probably can’t get out to have a look till next weekend at the earliest, but if I’m going to do the job myself I should probably get the parts ordered.

Can anyone enlighten me as to what’s involved? Does the new cover just slip on, or do you need to dismantle half the car to thread the bits on in the right order? What exactly is it that I need?

Cheers,

Pete

A drop link is a simple rod between two ball joints like the track rod ends, whcih I'm assuming you know what they are having talked about doing driveshaft cv gators. Troplink goes from the antirollbat to the suspension strut, with a balljoint at each end, these have rubber covers. The rubber covers often perish before the joint has any significant play, however, the price of the rubbers is nearly as much as a new droplink.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223010316888

I don't know what sized rubbers you'd need. but the links are £11.60 posted, this set of rubbers is £6.89 posted, for less than a fivers difference in money, I'd fit new parts rather bugger about changing four rubber gators and refitting old joints with rusty nuts etc.



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293332389120

Yep, no point farting about with just the covers in that case. Assuming replacing the links is as simple as undoing the nut each end and swapping them out.

EDIT: Just found this video:



Piece of **** by the looks of it

Cheers,

Pete

Yes, thin open ended spanner on flats below the boot or on some an Allen key in the stub to stop it turning when you unscrew the nut.

andyfreelandy said:

Yes, thin open ended spanner on flats below the boot or on some an Allen key in the stub to stop it turning when you unscrew the nut.

Click to expand...

Pete_TD4 said:

Piece of **** by the looks of it

Click to expand...

And if Andy's tips don't work, then mole grips on the ball joint side will do the trick.

Use plenty of release fluid for a couple of days before hand, to relay allow time for the fluid to work.
I'd also avoid cheap drop links, as the boots don't last more than a few months.
Use Lemforder, Febi, Delphi, Meyle, MOOG or another premium OE quality brand, to get the longest life out if them.
Like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233828470164