Exhaust fumes fom Turbo?

[Socrates]

A muffled bang and a cabin full of exhaust

I have a 2010 Freelander 2. I started to get the smell of fumes when idling. This at first seemed a small issue BUT! My local garage investigated and told me I needed a new Turbo Actuator. Having done that, it didn’t stop the fumes, but I now had hiccups at low revs. After a few miles, there was a muffled bang, and fumes poured out of the bonnet and into the cabin.

A few minutes with the engine off, I thought I would try to limp home. There was no problem apart from the slight smell of exhaust in the cabin. The hiccups were worse, so I thought it might be a blockage, I shot the revs up to 4500 for about a mile to see if it would clear. Everything seemed fine apart from the slight smell of fumes. This worked but only for about 40 or so miles and the bonnet started to leak fumes, until I pushed the revs up again.

So far, I have been told it was the Turbo Actuator, the Turbocharger, and the EGR valve pipe. I have tried finding the leaking point by crawling under myself, but could see nothing. I tried looking with the engine running, but the fumes cut that investigation short. None of the garages around me wants to know about it. Can anyone tell me what could cause these symptoms?

 

[J_D]

I found a steam leak by looking when it's dark and using a torch. The vapour will show up more.

 

[Socrates]

I found a steam leak by looking when it's dark and using a torch. The vapour will show up more.

Mine is diesel, though. My problem is that I don't have easy access under the car. When I did, the fumes were too strong. It needs to be done by a competent mechanic in a workshop. Unfortunately, I have no access to a decent Landrover mechanic where I live. The Land Rover dealers are far too expensive. If I can zero in on the cause, I' might be able to do it myself.

 

[Nodge68]

Mine is diesel, though. My problem is that I don't have easy access under the car. When I did, the fumes were too strong. It needs to be done by a competent mechanic in a workshop. Unfortunately, I have no access to a decent Landrover mechanic where I live. The Land Rover dealers are far too expensive. If I can zero in on the cause, I' might be able to do it myself.

First off, the car is basically a Gen 3 Ford Mondeo on stilts, so any decent garage should be able to identify simple engine issues.
I suggest you find another garage, as I can't see how a turbo actuator can cause exhaust gasses to exit the exhaust system. Then there's the issue that the actuator shouldn't be replaced separate from the turbo, as the two components are factory matched together. Also when a new turbo is fitted, the vehicle needs calibration to the new parts using JLR SDD diagnostic software.

The only way for exhaust gasses to get out of the exhaust are through a failed joint somewhere like the EGR tube connection, or the turbo to manifold gasket, or the turbo to exhaust gasket.
A replacement actuator won't fix that, and unless the correct operations are carried out, it'll cause additional running issues, and fail quickly.

 

[Socrates]

First off, the car is basically a Gen 3 Ford Mondeo on stilts, so any decent garage should be able to identify simple engine issues.
I suggest you find another garage, as I can't see how a turbo actuator can cause exhaust gasses to exit the exhaust system. Then there's the issue that the actuator shouldn't be replaced separate from the turbo, as the two components are factory matched together. Also when a new turbo is fitted, the vehicle needs calibration to the new parts using JLR SDD diagnostic software.

The only way for exhaust gasses to get out of the exhaust are through a failed joint somewhere like the EGR tube connection, or the turbo to manifold gasket, or the turbo to exhaust gasket.
A replacement actuator won't fix that, and unless the correct operations are carried out, it'll cause additional running issues, and fail quickly.

 

[Socrates]

Thank you, Nodge68. I agree about the garages. I have consulted three, and none of them could help. The EGR tube, I think, is the source of my issue, but the Actuator and Turbo will need to be calibrated again, as I doubt it was done correctly.