P38A [P38] Common coolant leak locations

[blue_cheese]

It's definitely coolant, the puddle is a bright pink. Guess I'll be off the road for a while!

 

[Grrrrrr]

Are you upto speed lad

Catching up ... slowly!

 

[Datatek]

It's definitely coolant, the puddle is a bright pink. Guess I'll be off the road for a while!

Easy mornings work. Disconnect the rubber pipes under the bonnet and link them together, then you can use the car, heater not needed this weather.

 

[Rubberknees]

Easy mornings work. Disconnect the rubber pipes under the bonnet and link them together, then you can use the car, heater not needed this weather.

+1 its an easy job to by pass under bonnet

 

[RangeRoller dt]

There’s loads of threads in searchbar (top right) on it as most of us have done it at some point. It’s not as bad as you would think once you get stuck in. If you go full removal good idea to place the bits in the boot as you disassemble, then it goes back together quicker in reverse. Even LandRover eventually used the hole cutting method in the end

 

[blue_cheese]

+1 its an easy job to by pass under bonnet

Wish I saw this before I started tearing the dash apart! Is it as simple as piping the internal (behind firewall )pipes to eachother and the external (engine loop) pipes to eachother?

Made a start today, got some bits off but got stuck because I don't have any eTorx sockets. Got some coming tomorrow.

Looks like the butcher has already had a go at this before, cut metal and quite a few missing screws:

 

[Datatek]

Wish I saw this before I started tearing the dash apart! Is it as simple as piping the internal (behind firewall )pipes to eachother and the external (engine loop) pipes to eachother?

Made a start today, got some bits off but got stuck because I don't have any eTorx sockets. Got some coming tomorrow.

Looks like the butcher has already had a go at this before, cut metal and quite a few missing screws:

View attachment 344710

No need to link the internal pipes. Use compressed air to blow the coolant out of the heater matrix.

 

[blue_cheese]

Anyone know what diameter duct this is? May as well replace it while I'm here

 

[blue_cheese]

Got the buggers out. They don't look in bad condition, got me wondering if it's a leak with the pipes or the matrix itself.



Anyways, what size o rings have people been using as a replacement? I've got some that are the same diameter but a little thicker.


Old ones in above pic.

 

[Mark Piercy]

Got the buggers out. They don't look in bad condition, got me wondering if it's a leak with the pipes or the matrix itself.

View attachment 344793

Anyways, what size o rings have people been using as a replacement? I've got some that are the same diameter but a little thicker.

View attachment 344794
Old ones in above pic.

If they have crusty crap on them it's because they've been leaking

 

[Datatek]

Got the buggers out. They don't look in bad condition, got me wondering if it's a leak with the pipes or the matrix itself.

View attachment 344793

Anyways, what size o rings have people been using as a replacement? I've got some that are the same diameter but a little thicker.

View attachment 344794
Old ones in above pic.

I do not know the size, I just purchased the correct items, but a little thicker should be OK. Was the retaining screw tight? I suspect that the screw is likely to work loose with the heating and cooling cycles I put mine back with Loctite.

 

[FEI]

I do not know the size, I just purchased the correct items, but a little thicker should be OK. Was the retaining screw tight? I suspect that the screw is likely to work loose with the heating and cooling cycles I put mine back with Loctite.

+1 on the loctite
The screw does tend to work itself abit looser during the first few heat cycles.

 

[blue_cheese]

What's the secret to getting this clamp and screw back on the heater matrix?



I've been at it for hours, it's kicking my arse



Is there a certain way the clamp is supposed to sit on the
matrix?

 

[Mark Piercy]

One of the pipes looks out of line kiddo, once they're both placed the aluminum bracket on the rear can be brought towards the collar with the screw through it and nipped up. My advice, (although not worth shït apparently) walk away have a few minutes and go back to it. Then you'll kick it's ass

 

[Datatek]

What's the secret to getting this clamp and screw back on the heater matrix?



I've been at it for hours, it's kicking my arse



Is there a certain way the clamp is supposed to sit on the
matrix?

View attachment 345005View attachment 345006

From the photo, the screw doesn't look long enough? With the screw entered into the thread
, the pipes can be wriggled in to place. A smear of silicone grease holds the O rings in place.

 

[kermit_rr]

My advice, (although not worth shït apparently)

I think (bar a few well known exceptions) everyone's advice on here is extremely valuable and well received

 

[Mark Piercy]

I think (bar a few well known exceptions) everyone's advice on here is extremely valuable and well received

We know that mate.

 

[blue_cheese]

I pulled the pipes + clamp out to take the pic, that's why it's not sitting right.
Do the flanges on the pipes sit on top of the inlet surface? Or do they go further in?

Someone has been and butchered the threads in it too.
Made 10x harder by the fact that I don't have a magnetic screwdriver! Sod keeps falling off.

I'll try again in the morning, thanks for your advice

 

[Mark Piercy]

You did put the o-rings onto the pipes didn't you before fitting?

 

[Grrrrrr]

I pulled the pipes + clamp out to take the pic, that's why it's not sitting right.
Do the flanges on the pipes sit on top of the inlet surface? Or do they go further in?

Someone has been and butchered the threads in it too.
Made 10x harder by the fact that I don't have a magnetic screwdriver! Sod keeps falling off.

I'll try again in the morning, thanks for your advice

You can magnetise your screwdriver tip with a magnet!