What have you done to your Freelander today

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Put prop shaft back on. Decided to do it in pieces instead of assembling on bench. Won't do it that way again.

Big thanks to the guys at Bell Engineering who tested my VCU for me - worth the trip to make sure it was ok as i bought the vehicle with it disconnected.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Which way? Complete or in parts ?
Click to expand...
In parts. Although I've calmed down a bit now. I put the vcu on first and then put the back section on without realising the front wouldn't then go on. Then when i'd sorted that and got the front and back on I realised i had forgotten to put the bolts and washers in the vcu spline shaft.

On reflection it's probably easer to do it in parts as long as you don't forget those things.
 
Went to start my FL2 this morning and the engine cranked and cranked and cranked (good battery ) but never started. Jumped into the wife's car and dropped her off at the station. Returned to my FL2 and plugged in my TakLife OBDII code reader to see what codes it threw up. Well, it threw up everything! Hundreds and hundreds (I may be exagerating) of DTCs from every module the car possesses.
As far as diagnostics goes that's about as much use as not having a code reader at all.
I reset all the codes, pressed the start button without putting my foot on the brake pedal so the car ran its own diagnostics. Read the codes again: Just two codes indicating faulty glowplugs. They've been duff for 15 years, so no surprises there.
Tried starting the engine. Fired up instantly. No warning lights on the dash.
Took it for a spin. No issues. Stopped and started the engine several times. No issues.

Intermittent fault with the crankshaft position sensor?
 
Last edited:
Freddie17 said:
Crankshaft sensor would be my go-to number 1 quick change.
I know on the F1, a faulty one can often not throw a code. Assume the same on a 2…
Click to expand...
Yes, same on the FL2. Mine, well yours, only generated a code when it actually stopped the engine, but not when it was misbehaving before hand.
 
Replaced OSR window regulator. Motor dead in the water. Been in since 2012 apparently.
Anyway all done and working again.

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I replaced the TD4 turbo boost solenoid. The person who wrote the original sticky post about it taking 15-20 minutes was writing in 2011 and his vehicle can have been at most 10 years old. Mine is 19 years old and it was no fun crawling around in the gravel wrestling with the very reluctant nuts and rubber pipes single handed (the other hand has to prop you up so you can reach!). But at least after all that, it seems like it was worth doing. No more black cloud when hauling uphill or overtaking. My new part was a genuine landrover part I found on ebay, someone had obviously bought about ten years ago and never used.
 
freelounger said:
I replaced the TD4 turbo boost solenoid. The person who wrote the original sticky post about it taking 15-20 minutes was writing in 2011 and his vehicle can have been at most 10 years old. Mine is 19 years old and it was no fun crawling around in the gravel wrestling with the very reluctant nuts and rubber pipes single handed (the other hand has to prop you up so you can reach!). But at least after all that, it seems like it was worth doing. No more black cloud when hauling uphill or overtaking. My new part was a genuine landrover part I found on ebay, someone had obviously bought about ten years ago and never used.
Click to expand...
Good work this is!
 
Alot of work done today. New rear brake flexi hoses and short joiner sections fitted, drums painted, ird oil changed, vcu bearings aligned, some serious rust tackled and the underside Lanoguarded. Also adjusted the ARB and rear brakes and programmed a fob too. All with considerable assistance.

The good news is that a couple of big jobs were ticked off the list. The bad news is a couple of jobs have been added to the list. A leaking OS driveshaft seal needs sorting and a little bit of welding is required at the rear of the offside sill, and I still have a suspension knock to sort.

New brake hoses
20250706_122507.jpg
20250706_114125.jpg


Rust treatment prior to Lanoguarding
20250706_121440.jpg


Rusty sill with new access hole
20250706_150321.jpg


Vast quantity of silt behind front mudflap
20250706_162736.jpg


Underside Lanoguarded
20250706_173402.jpg
 
kernowsvenski said:
Alot of work done today. New rear brake flexi hoses and short joiner sections fitted, drums painted, ird oil changed, vcu bearings aligned, some serious rust tackled and the underside Lanoguarded. Also adjusted the ARB and rear brakes and programmed a fob too. All with considerable assistance.

The good news is that a couple of big jobs were ticked off the list. The bad news is a couple of jobs have been added to the list. A leaking OS driveshaft seal needs sorting and a little bit of welding is required at the rear of the offside sill, and I still have a suspension knock to sort.

New brake hoses
View attachment 344724View attachment 344725

Rust treatment prior to Lanoguarding
View attachment 344726

Rusty sill with new access hole
View attachment 344727

Vast quantity of silt behind front mudflap
View attachment 344728

Underside Lanoguarded
View attachment 344729
Click to expand...
Looking good there.
Always handy knowing someone with a lift 😉
 
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