Disco 2 TD5 Fuel line green fitting on the pump popping out

[Sieklo]

Hi everyone, a week ago green fuel line (number 8 on Schematics) for the pump popped out and 1/4 of the tank went on the ground in a matter of minutes.




It also happened about a year ago from a bad fuel pump ring installment the whole pump popped out of the tank. I thought about swapping just the plastic piece that holds the fuel line to the pump, so I will put the green one in place of the white one (number 9 on schematics) it's air bleed so there is no so much pressure and worn out HP fuel clamp can live happily there. Is that a good idea? I've tried the Opel/Vauxhall part but it's too long and I can't push it far enough to lock in. As far as I know, new ones are only sold with new fuel pumps, can't buy them separately, maybe you guys have other ideas on how to fix/prevent that.


That is the thing that popped out (number 8 on rave / HP fuel line clamp)

(borrowed from post @rmacaul)

 

[tilly2]

Are you looking for a new green clip...

 

[Sieklo]

Are you looking for a new green clip...

Yep

 

[tilly2]

let me look in my parts bin... If I can find one, I'll send it to you....

 

[Sieklo]

let me look in my parts bin... If I can find one, I'll send it to you....

That would be awesome, sadly am outside of the UK, but if possible of course I will cover all postage expenses.

For the time being, I've swapped the white clip with a green one to get me to work "safely"

 

[Makatak1967]

Right - same problem in my 110 TD5.

Had my fuel pump replaced (allegedly) and had a fuel eruption, and of course found the pump hadn't been replaced after cutting a hole in rear floor.

What the chap had done was just cut and butted the fuel lines with what looks like 12mm fuel hose, and jubilee clips.

I am considering forking out for a fuel set of braided fuel lines, but noticed that the people that make them still use the plastic ends that plug in.

I have thought about putting the Nakatenga steel push in ends onto the braided lines.

However, was wondering, has anyone ever tried replacing the stick in ends with screw on?

Other question, I haven't checked access yet, but is access to the top of the chassis an issue to replace the lines?

I am also seriously considering making the hole in the floor full size, retaining the reinforcing braces. Has anyone tried that?

My problem is there is so much damage to the fuel lines I have no choice but to replace them, and the pump, and I would rather do this once.

 

[tilly2]

Right - same problem in my 110 TD5.

Had my fuel pump replaced (allegedly) and had a fuel eruption, and of course found the pump hadn't been replaced after cutting a hole in rear floor.

What the chap had done was just cut and butted the fuel lines with what looks like 12mm fuel hose, and jubilee clips.

I am considering forking out for a fuel set of braided fuel lines, but noticed that the people that make them still use the plastic ends that plug in.

I have thought about putting the Nakatenga steel push in ends onto the braided lines.

However, was wondering, has anyone ever tried replacing the stick in ends with screw on?

Other question, I haven't checked access yet, but is access to the top of the chassis an issue to replace the lines?

I am also seriously considering making the hole in the floor full size, retaining the reinforcing braces. Has anyone tried that?

My problem is there is so much damage to the fuel lines I have no choice but to replace them, and the pump, and I would rather do this once.

With a Defender, you have two choices, drop the tank, or cut an access hole. Personally, I'd drop the tank, fit an oem pump, replace the fuel pipes with oem. You cant go wrong.