Potential new Series 2a owner with questions on powerplant and drivetrain

[Wildefalcon]

Parts books available from brooklands, all good bookshops will oblige. Suggest also printing the on line versions, for workshop duties.

Blanchard are good for parts, the rest are pot luck. Salisbury is much tougher axle, a licenced copy of the Dana 60, but with standard LR diameter half shafts. Slightly shorter prop shaft.

Defender tdi200 timing case may foul the chassis rail, I've a disco timing case with defender manifolds on my TDI. Skoda Fabian rs turbo will fit in front of the standard radiator if you have head lamps in the wings.

 

[mondifa]

Parts books available from brooklands, all good bookshops will oblige. Suggest also printing the on line versions, for workshop duties.

Blanchard are good for parts, the rest are pot luck. Salisbury is much tougher axle, a licenced copy of the Dana 60, but with standard LR diameter half shafts. Slightly shorter prop shaft.

Defender tdi200 timing case may foul the chassis rail, I've a disco timing case with defender manifolds on my TDI. Skoda Fabian rs turbo will fit in front of the standard radiator if you have head lamps in the wings.

Thanks for the info! I'm particularly interested in the information about the timing case and the radiator.

 

[Turboman]

Thanks for the info! I'm particularly interested in the information about the timing case and the radiator.

Nice to meet you!

Are you Antifa's brother?

 

[Bezdonian]

Parts books available from brooklands, all good bookshops will oblige. Suggest also printing the on line versions, for workshop duties.

Blanchard are good for parts, the rest are pot luck. Salisbury is much tougher axle, a licenced copy of the Dana 60, but with standard LR diameter half shafts. Slightly shorter prop shaft.

Defender tdi200 timing case may foul the chassis rail, I've a disco timing case with defender manifolds on my TDI. Skoda Fabian rs turbo will fit in front of the standard radiator if you have head lamps in the wings.

Thanks for info, I’ve bought a manual from brooklands. Given the over cooled nature of the 2.25 engine would it safe to keep the original radiator and add the inter cooler to the right of it. Or simply modify the radiator bracket off the 200 to fit 200 radiator and intercooler? Any modifications to the flywheel and bell housing in order to make the engine fit the older gearbox?

 

[Wildefalcon]

I stuck mine in front of the rad. I do have an overheating issue. But not explored why. I think I need some fans, may just be the stat. but may have deeper issues in the block (250k miles). Also updated IP and head. I prefer to keep original parts when possible, as makes field repairs easier.

 

[Bezdonian]

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I stuck mine in front of the rad. I do have an overheating issue. But not explored why. I think I need some fans, may just be the stat. but may have deeper issues in the block (250k miles). Also updated IP and head. I prefer to keep original parts when possible, as makes field repairs easier.

Interesting, probably adding a fan is a good idea just to be on the safe side.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Yes.... Not so simple if done right. That's not a lot of space between the water pump and the rad, so thin electric is the smart choice.

And that pump boss is v close. So two smaller fans are better.

Doing this, the rad benefits from a shroud that incorporates two fans.

And ...

The fan switch is best on the lower hose. But that means a little custom fitting with a boss for the switch, and ideally two hoses of the right diameter to the pump and rad. Adequately supported.

I did start designing a decent fitting that I was going to give to allisport to make, but other things got in the way.

 

[marjon]

Not so simple if done right. That's not a lot of space between the water pump and the rad, so thin electric is the smart choice.

And that pump boss is v close. So two smaller fans are better.

Fans are available to "push" too so could fit in front of rad?

The fan switch is best on the lower hose. But that means a little custom fitting with a boss for the switch, and ideally two hoses of the right diameter to the pump and rad. Adequately supported.

Always thought the position of sensor is debatable, top or bottom

But adaptors and electric fan kits to take an adjustable temp sensor in either hose are available for most size of hose.

I have no idea of available space .

J

 

[Wildefalcon]

All depends! If you've an oil cooler and an intercooler in front there's not much room left.

 

[Wildefalcon]

My "logic" is that if the coolant coming out of the top house is hot enough to switch the fan, then it's probably too hot, thus the fans are already on the back foot.

 

[marjon]

My "logic" is that if the coolant coming out of the top house is hot enough to switch the fan, then it's probably too hot, thus the fans are already on the back foot.

Hot goes in the top of rad and cool comes out the bottom?

If it’s hot coming out the bottom then you are doubley on the back foot

The rad does nothing till the engine is hot when the thermostat opens and let’s it get to the rad

Or am I missing something?

J

 

[steve2286w]

Put mine infront of radiator, engine runs cool most of the time,

have switch on dashboard to turn fan on if needed, homemade brackets

 

[Wildefalcon]

Hot goes in the top of rad and cool comes out the bottom?

If it’s hot coming out the bottom then you are doubley on the back foot

The rad does nothing till the engine is hot when the thermostat opens and let’s it get to the rad

Or am I missing something?

J

Oh heck. You are right. My bad. My mind is addled by the absence of recent workshop time.

Bottom temperature is still the best trigger, if it's not hot enough to trigger the switch then it doesn't need the fan.

 

[Bezdonian]

Well what was potential is now reality.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Before modifying, get it running nice and drive it for a bit.

Series 3 bulkhead? Or just hinges?

 

[Bezdonian]

Before modifying, get it running nice and drive it for a bit.

Series 3 bulkhead? Or just hinges?

Hinges I believe, the bulkhead is original
Brakes and clutch pedals are solid for the moment

 

[dag019]

Well what was potential is now reality.View attachment 299880

That series looks very nice. Having read through the rest of the thread will the 110 be up for sale now? If so please PM me with some more information as I am currently looking for a station wagon.

I would also second the advice given by @Wildefalcon regarding getting it running nicely and then driving it for a bit before diving head first into modification. I would also start with the other modifications you are looking at before swapping the engine out. E.g. overdrive, sound proofing etc. with the engine as the last thing as it is the most expensive, most involved and most difficult to return to standard. I have a 2.25 diesel with overdrive in my series 3, all be it swb, and it is perfectly adequate when driven like a series vehicle. As other have said you tuck in with the the lorries and it will sit at 55-60 on the motorway. By all means do the research regarding engine swaps, but until you have driven it properly in its current form you are guessing if it is something that is really needed and assuming that it currently wont be up to the task required. Until you have some miles under your belt you cannot make a properly informed decision. If after driving it for a couple of months and getting everything performing properly you decide it is still lacking then swap for a tdi, i am not anti modification, but until you try it as standard you will not know.

 

[Bezdonian]

That series looks very nice. Having read through the rest of the thread will the 110 be up for sale now? If so please PM me with some more information as I am currently looking for a station wagon.

I would also second the advice given by @Wildefalcon regarding getting it running nicely and then driving it for a bit before diving head first into modification. I would also start with the other modifications you are looking at before swapping the engine out. E.g. overdrive, sound proofing etc. with the engine as the last thing as it is the most expensive, most involved and most difficult to return to standard. I have a 2.25 diesel with overdrive in my series 3, all be it swb, and it is perfectly adequate when driven like a series vehicle. As other have said you tuck in with the the lorries and it will sit at 55-60 on the motorway. By all means do the research regarding engine swaps, but until you have driven it properly in its current form you are guessing if it is something that is really needed and assuming that it currently wont be up to the task required. Until you have some miles under your belt you cannot make a properly informed decision. If after driving it for a couple of months and getting everything performing properly you decide it is still lacking then swap for a tdi, i am not anti modification, but until you try it as standard you will not know.

Regarding the 110, I've got someone looking at it next week and another interested. I'll send you the details later as its had a lot of work done since I bought it back in 2020.

I would agree with both you and Wildefalcon about the engine. My main concern its reliability and how often it would require tinkering. As I said about the 200 tdi, it just needs the odd oil top out and an alternator retention every now and again. Is the 2.25 any more maintenance heavy or just the odd adjustment? Performance can come later after maybe changing or refurbing the injectors, replacing the rad and so on.

 

[Bezdonian]

That series looks very nice. Having read through the rest of the thread will the 110 be up for sale now? If so please PM me with some more information as I am currently looking for a station wagon.

I would also second the advice given by @Wildefalcon regarding getting it running nicely and then driving it for a bit before diving head first into modification. I would also start with the other modifications you are looking at before swapping the engine out. E.g. overdrive, sound proofing etc. with the engine as the last thing as it is the most expensive, most involved and most difficult to return to standard. I have a 2.25 diesel with overdrive in my series 3, all be it swb, and it is perfectly adequate when driven like a series vehicle. As other have said you tuck in with the the lorries and it will sit at 55-60 on the motorway. By all means do the research regarding engine swaps, but until you have driven it properly in its current form you are guessing if it is something that is really needed and assuming that it currently wont be up to the task required. Until you have some miles under your belt you cannot make a properly informed decision. If after driving it for a couple of months and getting everything performing properly you decide it is still lacking then swap for a tdi, i am not anti modification, but until you try it as standard you will not know.

Out of interest what sort of improvements can be made to the 2.25 diesel or simply to improve the performance a bit. On another forum someone changed out the fan for an electric bosch one for instance.

 

[lynall]

Thanks for info, I’ve bought a manual from brooklands. Given the over cooled nature of the 2.25 engine would it safe to keep the original radiator and add the inter cooler to the right of it. Or simply modify the radiator bracket off the 200 to fit 200 radiator and intercooler? Any modifications to the flywheel and bell housing in order to make the engine fit the older gearbox?

I kept std series 2 rad, squeezed i/c to the side of it.