P38A A series of faults

[Grrrrrr]

Eesh, that's an expensive PITA!

The manual states a silicon grease, I was planning to use some Ceratech silicon grease that I have for brake systems

Silicone it is then. I can never remember but as per RAVE.

 

[Rubberknees]

I used a 3in wheel air grinder, bought cheaply from Aldi years ago.very handy bit of kit.

Had some decent tools from Aldi in the past and at a good price

 

[tomcat59alan]

Had some decent tools from Aldi in the past and at a good price

And they have a three year guarantee so you can give them some stick and if they pack in get your money back.Just make sure you keep the receipt.

 

[Rubberknees]

And they have a three year guarantee so you can give them some stick and if they pack in get your money back.Just make sure you keep the receipt.

Agree. We once took a lawn mower back after 21/2 yrs, money back with receipt no problem. Big thing is KEEP THE RECEIPT

 

[Slooby]

Wheel bearing done:

Relented and slotted the shroud for the ABS sensor just in case

Used my ebay special bush/bearing puller, which uses an M14 bolt, to press the hub into the bearing centres and it all went together like butter with the aid of some ACF50 anti-corrosion 'oil' as lube

Need to get the hub off still to replace the bottom ball joint (having a right old battle with none of the right joint splitter tools) and will resort to attacking it with a slitting disc soon...

Also have to replace the CV gaiter which is the reason this hub was coming apart in the first place

 

[Slooby]

Have also been pulling the turbo apart for its refresh:

Gunge central...

 

[Slooby]

Swivel housing now off the axle care of my angle grinder and a cutting disc. Naturally in cutting through the old lower ball joint shaft it freed the taper off that I had so unsuccessfully been doing battle with

Have got the old ball joint insert starting to shift in the axle, but need something beefier than a big G cramp really, and I can't get my 10t gear puller on to it with the floppy legs obaying gravity more than they will me...I need to explore my big bits of metal pile to see if I can adapt something

 

[Rubberknees]

Swivel housing now off the axle care of my angle grinder and a cutting disc. Naturally in cutting through the old lower ball joint shaft it freed the taper off that I had so unsuccessfully been doing battle with

Have got the old ball joint insert starting to shift in the axle, but need something beefier than a big G cramp really, and I can't get my 10t gear puller on to it with the floppy legs obaying gravity more than they will me...I need to explore my big bits of metal pile to see if I can adapt something

Got a lass in local pub with big bits

 

[Slooby]

Before I attempt to modify a G clamp into a ball joint press, or buy one, does anyone around the Tonbridge or Basingstoke areas happen to have one I could possibly borrow?

In other news I've ordered a 10 litre Ultrasonic cleaning tank in an effort to clean out all the gloop and carbon from my turbo housings and inducer/exducer wheels. It's hold also be big enough to take the transmission cooler which is utterly caked in oil soaked mud.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Before I attempt to modify a G clamp into a ball joint press, or buy one, does anyone around the Tonbridge or Basingstoke areas happen to have one I could possibly borrow?

In other news I've ordered a 10 litre Ultrasonic cleaning tank in an effort to clean out all the gloop and carbon from my turbo housings and inducer/exducer wheels. It's hold also be big enough to take the transmission cooler which is utterly caked in oil soaked mud.

@tomcat59alan posted a link to a kit on eBay for about £50.

 

[Slooby]

Yeah, I could buy one of the 10 piece kits for about 30 quid or 50 for the 21 piece, but I'm rather throwing too much money around at the moment and need to kerb my spending...
The G cramp I was using was starting to make things move, but I really need to get a better lever onto it to really get the forces up than relying on the rather bendy 'pin handle'. I was going to weld on an old flanged hub nut I've found kicking around, or look at making something that my gear puller could attach to without the legs flopping about

 

[brianp38dse]

Did you warm up the hub and put the ball joint in the freezer over night as that helps.

 

[Slooby]

Did you warm up the hub and put the ball joint in the freezer over night as that helps.

I don't fancy my chances of getting the axle in the freezer It was the getting the old ball joint out that had been the problem...the new ones will be going in the freezer though as every micron helps when putting them back together

I say had as I've got both top and bottom joints out now, welding an old hub nut onto the G cramp only succeeded in me breaking the clamp's swivel foot off the screw However I did find a way to use my hydraulic gear puller in the end and using the remains of some old bearing races I was able to press out both ball joints. I ended up having to remove tge top one as well after finding it's gaiter was also split and there being virtually no grease left in it.

I'll order up a top ball joint in a bit, but will need to discover a suitable diameter press tube in something to press it in

 

[Slooby]

Well rebuilding the turbo was a complete waste of time

Just snapped the impellor shaft applying a massive 8 Nm of torque while finishing off the rebuild.

Currently of a mind to set the whole fesking pile on fire

 

[oakey]

what a Bummer sorry to hear that

 

[tomcat59alan]

Well rebuilding the turbo was a complete waste of time

Just snapped the impellor shaft applying a massive 8 Nm of torque while finishing off the rebuild.

Currently of a mind to set the whole fesking pile on fire

Bugger,the last turbo I did I got a replacement cartridge for,is one available for the P38?

 

[Slooby]

A new CHRA (core) looks to be around £150 quid for a decent branded replacement, meanwhile a second hand turbo about £60 delivered, which I could just swap the wheels and shaft from into my freshly rebuilt core...and tighten the bloody nut with a lot more care

 

[Slooby]

Alternatively a new exhaust wheel and shaft is about 45 quid, again branded...that might be the best option...

 

[Slooby]

Cold light of day has revealed how I managed to snap the shaft; it turns out that my 5-25Nm Teng Torque wrench only works as a torque wrench on a clockwise rotation, anti-clockwise locks it

 

[Rubberknees]

Cold light of day has revealed how I managed to snap the shaft; it turns out that my 5-25Nm Teng Torque wrench only works as a torque wrench on a clockwise rotation, anti-clockwise locks it

Bet you don't do that again