Binding Caliper.

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mudinuri

Active Member
Posts
609
Location
New Forest
F.A.O NODGE. On November 9th Nodge gave me advice regarding Juddering and said "Sounds like Binding Caliper" and told me to take it for a run and then pour water over them. Did it today and the O/S front was steaming.
So my question is What do I do now? Can I drive it a short distance and is it a D.I.Y job remembering that I am an old geezer with no proper Jack and no real flat surfaces to work on.
Cheers all.
 
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You obviously need to be able to jack the car up safely to take the wheel off. Removal and replacement of a caliper is an easy job - IIRC its 2 bolts and a brake pipe.

The toughest bit I find is bleeding the brakes once the replacement has been fitted. It can be made easier by getting one of those "1 person brake bleeding" kits, but air will have got into the system and I'm pretty sure you'll have to get all the corners up off the ground, wheels off, undo rusty bleed nipples (ie try not to round them), repeat and repeat.

I wouldn't have though it advisable to drive the car.

Just my views, others may think different.
 
Definitely not a job to undertake with out a jack/car stand if your using a car jack rather than a proper jack. Many an accident has happened with people trying to fix brakes without the proper equipment. Might be time to invest in a jack and stand, they pay for themselves eventually. As GrumpyGel says it's the bleeding of the brakes that is the hassle, a good 8 mm spanner (think it is 8 mm) is essential for the bleed nipple. WD40 on the nipple to help free it from rust is a good start and a decent bleed kit is the way to go.
 
These days, I don't mess with sticking calipers, I simply replace them. They're so cheap, it's not worth doing anything to try to fix them.

However as the hydraulic system needs to be playing with, it should left to someone who knows what they are doing.
;)
 
I think a caliper change is one of the easier jobs, as Gel has said. You just need to make sure you bleed the system properly - which is also straight forward - but as nodge has suggested, you need to get it right.
 
Thanks for all the advice, I"m just about to phone my local L/R specialist to book it in. Thankfully we don"t need the car over Xmas, nowhere to go!
Stay Safe everyone.
 
Thanks for all the advice, I"m just about to phone my local L/R specialist to book it in. Thankfully we don"t need the car over Xmas, nowhere to go!
Stay Safe everyone.
For a job as straightforward as a brake caliper, the car doesn't need to go to a LR specialist, any decent garage will be able to do it. My experience of so called 4x4 specialists so far isn't good, I'd only use them for complicated electronic problems and transmission issues and even then with caution.

Col
 
Thanks for that Col,
I pretty well imagined that would be the case so have booked it into my local garage that has always done the MOT on the car.

Don't over pay for the caliper, as trade price for an aftermarket one is about £25.
They're so cheap, I replace them in pairs.
I'm just about to replace both front calipers on my FL2, once I've fixed the diff.
 
You obviously need to be able to jack the car up safely to take the wheel off. Removal and replacement of a caliper is an easy job - IIRC its 2 bolts and a brake pipe.

The toughest bit I find is bleeding the brakes once the replacement has been fitted. It can be made easier by getting one of those "1 person brake bleeding" kits, but air will have got into the system and I'm pretty sure you'll have to get all the corners up off the ground, wheels off, undo rusty bleed nipples (ie try not to round them), repeat and repeat.

I wouldn't have though it advisable to drive the car.

Just my views, others may think different.
If you use a brake hose clamp on the line you want to disconnect then you should only need to bleed that caliper but please DON'T touch the brake system if you are not 100% sure of what your doing, as others have said.
 
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