Classic Starting Woes...click-clunk ...no dash lights.

[lorri789]

After finishing my engineering exams and stuff I went to start the classic up after she was sitting for six months. I fitted a new battery and there was just a click and a clunk. The starter wires were roasting hot after trying a few times so I assumed the starter. I fitted the spare starter and there is no heat, but just the same result.
I'm going to dig into it tomorrow as its getting a bit dull now, but anyone want to save me some time and point me in the right direction? There is no ignition light nor oil check etc? Are the gear inhibitor switches known to fail? All the lights and wipers work so at least I can sit in it and wipe the drizzle away,

 

[Henry_b]

battery terminal tight?

 

[kermit_rr]

You fitted a new battery, are you sure it's fully charged?
Be worth checking the engine actually turns too

 

[lorri789]

Aye, battery full charged and good terminals. The first thing I did was to turn the engine before I even started it the first time.

 

[Henry_b]

 

[Henry_b]

Aye, battery full charged and good terminals. The first thing I did was to turn the engine before I even started it the first time.

check grounds...

 

[RangeRoller dt]

Exams ah okay.
I thought you was banned

+1 earths.

 

[lorri789]

 

[Datatek]

If the cables got hot, something was drawing power. You sure the spare starter motor is OK?

 

[lorri789]

It was the original one that went hot. It was dated Oct 1992, so I figured I might as well fit the new spare one. I get a lovely big 'thunk' sound but no lights on the dash. It's not getting a signal to turn the motor. I'm in the process of starting with fuses and then i'll look for circuits that do not have the correct voltage or amperage.

 

[Datatek]

It was the original one that went hot. It was dated Oct 1992, so I figured I might as well fit the new spare one. I get a lovely big 'thunk' sound but no lights on the dash. It's not getting a signal to turn the motor. I'm in the process of starting with fuses and then i'll look for circuits that do not have the correct voltage or amperage.

If the lights on the dash are on when you turn the key to position #2 then go out when you move to the start position, it's either a bad connection or a humongous load dropping the voltage.

 

[Ratae]

Have you fully charged the new battery with a battery charger before fitting or have you assumed because it's a new one that it was fully charged?
Fully charge with a battery charger, connect a good jump lead direct from battery earth terminal to the block near the starter motor as well as the normal earth cables & see if that makes any difference.

Had a click clunk & nothing else with mine after last refitting the gearbox.
Initially thought I'd cocked something up as it was fine before I did the job, but the engine turned freely via the crank pulley.
Tried spare charged battery & no difference.
Took starter motor off & tried it.
Just spun fairly gently, no attempt to fling itself about.
Local repairers (Greens, Leicester) tested it & there was an internal problem which meant it wasn't getting full battery voltage. Don't know if I'd banged it or damaged the internals when refitting the wires.
IIRC charged me mid £20s to repair my starter. Not actually sure what was replaced but the plastic bit where the wires connect is new.

 

[lorri789]

Thanks, I'll give it a go. I'm assuming my new starter is good as it's straight out of the box. It could be defective.

 

[lorri789]

I have no lights at all on the dash except the low fuel light which comes on before the needle rises.

 

[lorri789]

If the lights on the dash are on when you turn the key to position #2 then go out when you move to the start position, it's either a bad connection or a humongous load dropping the voltage.

i have no lights on at all except the low fuel light, which comes on before the needle rises. Indicator lights and and headlight notification work

 

[lorri789]

Have you fully charged the new battery with a battery charger before fitting or have you assumed because it's a new one that it was fully charged?
Fully charge with a battery charger, connect a good jump lead direct from battery earth terminal to the block near the starter motor as well as the normal earth cables & see if that makes any difference......

.

Thnaks I'll do what you say and see what happens. All fuses seem good.
I'm assuming the new starter is okay as it's out the box. It could be defective i suppose.

I wonder if the ignition switch has crumbled?

 

[tomcat59alan]

Thnaks I'll do what you say and see what happens. All fuses seem good.
I'm assuming the new starter is okay as it's out the box. It could be defective i suppose.

I wonder if the ignition switch has crumbled?

How long has the starter sat in the box?

 

[lorri789]

About 3 weeks. I earthed from the negative post to the starter case and still nothing. I swapped the efi relay and nothing, still the same.

The only thing i have fiddled with recently are the relays down in the drivers footwell when I was welding it.

 

[kermit_rr]

The only thing i have fiddled with recently are the relays down in the drivers footwell when I was welding it.

Hmmm...

 

[lorri789]

Can I jump the starter by putting a cable from the positive battery terminal to the positive on the starter and then jump to the signal line? It's a while since i've dome that.