L322 Steering angle sensor replacement - guide with pictures

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96
Location
Broadstairs, Kent, UK
Okay, here’s my take on replacing the steering angle sensor in a L322 2003 Range Rover.

There are other threads detailing the procedure but without photos:

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic12324.html?view=next
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...22/33038-replacing-steering-angle-sensor.html


Here are the symptoms of a faulty steering angle sensor:
  • HDC Inactive dash warning message
  • Air suspension inactive dash warning message
  • Yellow dash light warning –Triangle with a circular arrow
  • Yellow dash warning light – ABS
  • Yellow dash warning light – looks like the ABS light
normal_IMG_0125.JPG



It’s like the Christmas tree lights are being put on early! The same lights can occur after a battery change. You need to turn full lock right and full lock left after changing the battery (or a flat battery). If the warnings don’t got it’s likely it’s the steering angle sensor.

The lights 'can' be caused by other things such as ABS sensors, ref: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steering-angle-sensor.232571/

...so it’s best to check the fault codes before going ahead and assuming this is down to your steering angle sensor.

I have the AllComms sofware (I have used it sooo many times!)

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-mkiii/mkiii-all-comms

This gives you live steering angle sensor data. Mine showed nothing was coming back from the sensor, so I was pretty sure it was the darn sensor.

The previous threads linked to above start with full dash removal then it becomes clear that you can disconnect the steering column and replace the sensor without removing the dash.

I didn’t invent the following procedure but I did take some pictures which will hopefully help others:
  • Steering column black trim off (3 torx screws). Two are the same size, one smaller. The smaller one is very deeply recessed in the trim. I had to use a very lock socket extension. The trim does come out (it does require some pulling), you can leave this until after the steering column retaining bolts are removed.
  • Side center console trim off – one torx screw in the footwell area and then pull the wood toward the door, it’s held on with two of those clips / poppers.
IMG_20170224_144653_ed.jpg


  • Black trim under the dash off – a series of torx screws, you’ll need to completely remove this piece so disconnect all the wires.
  • Make sure the steering is centered

Now here comes the tricky part. Working under the footwell. This is a right pain in the back, neck, arms and fingers. The picture below shows the area looking up above the footwell:

IMG_20170224_141055_ed.jpg

  • Disconnect the pinch bolt – it’s a nylock nut, great but understandable! Completely remove the bolt. Access is hard, depending on the way the bolt is orientated. Much grumbling from me!
  • Diconnect the steering sensor plug and feed it through the large black cable tie.
  • Now remove the 4 bolts holding the steering column. Luckily these go into aluminium and are not hard to turn. I used various socket extenders but only to initially loosen the bolts. After that the socket ratchet is not required.
  • Now pull the steering wheel towards you when in the seat. I tugged hard, I didn’t need to. It separates easily around where you removed the pinch bolt.
  • Slide off the old sensor noting it’s orientation
  • Oh no, I compare it to my new sensor and the hole where the steering shaft goes it too big! Fear not, in the old sensor there is a plastic plug that can be removed and put into the new sensor. Now, if you don’t have the appropriate diagnostics software you can’t just swap in a new sensor. The new sensor needs to be coded to the vehicle. Allcoms can do this:
.
  • But if you don’t have AllComms you can swap out the moving parts of the sensor and retain the electronics. My sensor had a worn contact (see pic at the end) so it would have been okay but with AllComms I could procced as per the youtube link above.
I had to fiddle to get the new sensor on. There is a hole / lug on the sensor, this needs to be placed over a notch on the steering column. This stops the sensor case from spinning round. All easy when you are there so to speak!

Now came the trouble, reattaching the pinch bolt. The steering column has grooves and they need to align with the U joint. Also the column has a notch taken out which the pinch bolts aligns with, if the notch is not aligned the bolt will not go in. I kept on thinking I had everything right but the bolt would not go in.

The column had in fact gone too far into the U joint. It doesn’t go in as far as you would think. The way to line it up is to get right 'in there' with a torch and use your eyes. It hurts, but get it lined up and all will go smoothly. I did all this on my own and you don’t need someone to hold the steering column – I’m sure it would help though!
  • Refit the pinch bolt – not sure of the torque, I just did it tight
  • Refit the 4 retaining bolts – by hand first then with the ratchet, I didn’t do them crazy tight.
  • Thread the sensor wire back under the cable tie
  • Reconnect the sensor
  • Use allcomms to recode the car to the sensor if you have complete changed the sensor
  • Replace trim - the steering column trim was awkward to get back.
All faults gone however I drove around for 10 minutes and they all came back! OMG! I calmed down and used AllComms again to recode the sensor to the car. All was then okay.

In conclusion, the procedure is pretty simple but only once you've done it! It took me about 2 hours and most of that time was spent getting the pinch bolt back.

My replacement sensor was not OEM but a Febi Bilstein 36081
Amazon product
IMG_20170225_104607_ed.jpg

£160 and all that was wrong with the old was a worn out contact.

Charlie
 
Last edited:
Hi Trompka,
thanks for making this new part! I'm about to repair my steering angle sensor and would highly appreciate it if I could get one of your kits. Sent you a PM.
Thanks!
 
Oh, sh....t what happened with my post?
Nicest bit of spamming I've seen in a long time first time poster wanting to sell and from the same area first time poster wanting to buy. Why dont you and your alter ego , go ask the owners for permission to advertise . While you're at it delete your crappy post, it's f'ing up those of us on mobile devices!
 
Hi Gold Rover,
the Admin allowed me to post my Sensor development. I don´t know what happened, but something went wrong by adding the pictures.
I think, this repair solution can help some L322 owners to repair their car durable and cheap. It´s not such a funny work to put out the steering column.
The guy who has answered on my post is from Austria. But, yes, Austria is also in Europe like Germany. :)

Best regards
Markus
 
I finally was able to change out the steering angle sensor (after procrastinating almost half a year). I had the typical symptoms (christmas tree lights) and the Landrover dealer confirmed my suspicion.
When I revisited this site I had bookmarked several months ago I found a new post by Markus (username Trompka) and he was apparently selling an improved steering angle sensor slip ring. Since I didn't fancy doing the job twice I gave it a try and ordered a slip ring from him which arrived just a few days later. Furthermore I got a used BMW sensor out of an E46 (same part number as the LR sensor). The used sensor was in good working order according to the seller and it was just 40 Euro. I took the sensor apart and immediately noticed that the metal contacts had already started to wear down. Markus' new slip in comparison is much more heavy duty (see picture of Markus' and BMW slip ring - clearly visible which one looks more durable - it's the one one the bottom ;) ).

A friend of mine and I started yesterday at 10 in the morning and finished the job two hours later. The most annoying part was the limited space under the dash (and most stubborn bolt was the upper left steering column bolt - this is a LHD vehicle). The pinch bolt came out rather easily btw. We took out the old steering angle sensor and disassembled it. The first inspection revealed a broken contact which seemed to be the culprit for the faults. Switching out the slip ring to Markus' improved version is a matter of seconds (wanted to keep the electronics so that I didn't need to make a trip to the Landrover dealer for coding the sensor). Reassembly was faster than disassembly as we knew how to get to all the bolts. Before we tightened the bolts and reinstalled the trim I started the car and reset the steering (turned left to right lock to lock). At first I was disappointed as the faults didn't disappear (even after clearing the faults with the IID tool) but I guess turning the steering wheel lock to lock twice is not enough. After doing it a third time the faults disappeared. No lights anymore and no codes! :D

So everything is fine again! Markus new slip ring not only works as it should but it looks much more durable as the slip ring I took out and the used one from BMW. I would definitely recommend it as the work to replace the steering angle sensor is not really enjoyable.

20180512_094141.jpg
 
Last edited:
I would like to thank the OP for this helpful advice. I've had problems with the steering angle sensor, today it has been resolved. I followed the above, buying a second hand unit and swapped out the slip ring to replace the one in mine which had the identical worn down terminal, this has done the trick and the dreaded lights are gone.
Once again thanks for the post it helped me immensely.
 
I purchased a second hand sensor from a range rover breaker, took the slip ring out that had good contacts and swapped with mine that had worn out contacts, put it all back together correctly lined up, turned steering wheel lock to lock and still no change, suspension inactive abs lights on hdc inactive, nothing has changed, diagnosis comes up with code 68 steering angle sensor internal fault! Before i touched it the steering angle sensor not present fault came up
 
After looking at both of the different types of contacts I think both have something missing, if the contacts were being used in one direction then not much of a problem but as the steering has to turn both directions then the contacts should have the ends bent slightly downward so that the very end is not forced into the slip ring see very poor drawing
slip ring contact 2_crop_48.jpg
 

Attachments

  • slip ring contact 2.jpg
    slip ring contact 2.jpg
    43.7 KB · Views: 395
After looking at both of the different types of contacts I think both have something missing, if the contacts were being used in one direction then not much of a problem but as the steering has to turn both directions then the contacts should have the ends bent slightly downward so that the very end is not forced into the slip ring see very poor drawing
View attachment 192581

Your drawings and description remind me of my very good friend @tomcat59alan pre and post 'liberation' :)

slip ring contact 2_crop_48.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Charlie, new member here. How did you remove the nylock nut? I'm going to attempt to change my SAS next week so just wanted to know how you removed the nylock nut and did you just screw it back or did you use a new one when you were putting the car back?
Cheers.


Okay, here’s my take on replacing the steering angle sensor in a L322 2003 Range Rover.

There are other threads detailing the procedure but without photos:

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic12324.html?view=next
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...22/33038-replacing-steering-angle-sensor.html


Here are the symptoms of a faulty steering angle sensor:
  • HDC Inactive dash warning message
  • Air suspension inactive dash warning message
  • Yellow dash light warning –Triangle with a circular arrow
  • Yellow dash warning light – ABS
  • Yellow dash warning light – looks like the ABS light
View attachment 118136


It’s like the Christmas tree lights are being put on early! The same lights can occur after a battery change. You need to turn full lock right and full lock left after changing the battery (or a flat battery). If the warnings don’t got it’s likely it’s the steering angle sensor.

The lights 'can' be caused by other things such as ABS sensors, ref: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steering-angle-sensor.232571/

...so it’s best to check the fault codes before going ahead and assuming this is down to your steering angle sensor.

I have the AllComms sofware (I have used it sooo many times!)

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-mkiii/mkiii-all-comms

This gives you live steering angle sensor data. Mine showed nothing was coming back from the sensor, so I was pretty sure it was the darn sensor.

The previous threads linked to above start with full dash removal then it becomes clear that you can disconnect the steering column and replace the sensor without removing the dash.

I didn’t invent the following procedure but I did take some pictures which will hopefully help others:
  • Steering column black trim off (3 torx screws). Two are the same size, one smaller. The smaller one is very deeply recessed in the trim. I had to use a very lock socket extension. The trim does come out (it does require some pulling), you can leave this until after the steering column retaining bolts are removed.
  • Side center console trim off – one torx screw in the footwell area and then pull the wood toward the door, it’s held on with two of those clips / poppers.
View attachment 118138

  • Black trim under the dash off – a series of torx screws, you’ll need to completely remove this piece so disconnect all the wires.
  • Make sure the steering is centered

Now here comes the tricky part. Working under the footwell. This is a right pain in the back, neck, arms and fingers. The picture below shows the area looking up above the footwell:

View attachment 118137
  • Disconnect the pinch bolt – it’s a nylock nut, great but understandable! Completely remove the bolt. Access is hard, depending on the way the bolt is orientated. Much grumbling from me!
  • Diconnect the steering sensor plug and feed it through the large black cable tie.
  • Now remove the 4 bolts holding the steering column. Luckily these go into aluminium and are not hard to turn. I used various socket extenders but only to initially loosen the bolts. After that the socket ratchet is not required.
  • Now pull the steering wheel towards you when in the seat. I tugged hard, I didn’t need to. It separates easily around where you removed the pinch bolt.
  • Slide off the old sensor noting it’s orientation
  • Oh no, I compare it to my new sensor and the hole where the steering shaft goes it too big! Fear not, in the old sensor there is a plastic plug that can be removed and put into the new sensor. Now, if you don’t have the appropriate diagnostics software you can’t just swap in a new sensor. The new sensor needs to be coded to the vehicle. Allcoms can do this:
.
  • But if you don’t have AllComms you can swap out the moving parts of the sensor and retain the electronics. My sensor had a worn contact (see pic at the end) so it would have been okay but with AllComms I could procced as per the youtube link above.
I had to fiddle to get the new sensor on. There is a hole / lug on the sensor, this needs to be placed over a notch on the steering column. This stops the sensor case from spinning round. All easy when you are there so to speak!

Now came the trouble, reattaching the pinch bolt. The steering column has grooves and they need to align with the U joint. Also the column has a notch taken out which the pinch bolts aligns with, if the notch is not aligned the bolt will not go in. I kept on thinking I had everything right but the bolt would not go in.

The column had in fact gone too far into the U joint. It doesn’t go in as far as you would think. The way to line it up is to get right 'in there' with a torch and use your eyes. It hurts, but get it lined up and all will go smoothly. I did all this on my own and you don’t need someone to hold the steering column – I’m sure it would help though!
  • Refit the pinch bolt – not sure of the torque, I just did it tight
  • Refit the 4 retaining bolts – by hand first then with the ratchet, I didn’t do them crazy tight.
  • Thread the sensor wire back under the cable tie
  • Reconnect the sensor
  • Use allcomms to recode the car to the sensor if you have complete changed the sensor
  • Replace trim - the steering column trim was awkward to get back.
All faults gone however I drove around for 10 minutes and they all came back! OMG! I calmed down and used AllComms again to recode the sensor to the car. All was then okay.

In conclusion, the procedure is pretty simple but only once you've done it! It took me about 2 hours and most of that time was spent getting the pinch bolt back.

My replacement sensor was not OEM but a Febi Bilstein 36081
Amazon product
View attachment 118139
£160 and all that was wrong with the old was a worn out contact.

Charlie
 
Hi Charlie, new member here. How did you remove the nylock nut? I'm going to attempt to change my SAS next week so just wanted to know how you removed the nylock nut and did you just screw it back or did you use a new one when you were putting the car back?
Cheers.
Its an 8mm pinch bolt, so its a nut and bolt needing two 13mm spanners to undo and remove bolt use a new nylock nut when replacing if you so wish.
 
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