Hmm thats interesting...my results on paper seem quite central a lot more so than your results.....yet I still have a pull to the left......need to swap tyres around to see if this pull changes etc.......if not I will need to question the results with the alignment center...
Somethings not right...
If they have set it up on a machine like the main dealer has and done it correctly then it should work ok. The printout looks the same as mine so I assume they have the same machine.
First job is to look for bent things. There's no point setting it up if something is bent. The bent bit should be resolved first. Mine was done by a main dealer. It cost £100+vat which was discounted from £150+vat due to them forgetting to do it. It went in for a service and 4 wheel alignment + steering geometry and they forgot to pass it to the accident repair section who have the rig. They said it takes about 40 mins to set-up on the rig and similar to make the adjustments and reassess.
As you know Freelander's have more adjustable options than cars. The front wheels are set by the rear wheels on a normal car like a Fiesta. The same happens on a Freelander, but the Freelander's rear wheels are also adjustable. Some years later I needed to have it done again. Most garages don't have rigs to do the work to set-up all 4 wheels. I was tricked by one tyre fitter who was recommended to do "4x4 laser alignment" which turned out to be front wheel set-up only. I went back but got pushed away and they told me they couldn't do anything. What they did was right and it's my car at fault...
You need to find out if they adjusted all 4 wheels. Mine drove perfect after the main dealer did a complete set-up. I agree my results above are not central but they're within spec and it felt so much betterer when driving home afterwards... It couldn't steer straight by itself. It felt like a different car. They test drove it before and after themselves to see what it was like.
After the tossers had a go I took it to another tyre fitter and they didn't know the correct set-up. We're talking high street band ere. I showed them my above results and they were no good to them. Their book and computer didn't have Freelander measurements. What they were doing was a front wheel only set-up by referencing them to the rears. They did an adjustment which I asked about and I agreed to have a go so they said come back and pay if it works. It didn't but I still went back for a chat and they refused payment. There was nothing they could do. By this time I'd fallen out with the main dealer over me recon gearbox. Operation HippoFix commenced. I searched the web and found different results from the rave disk, myfreelander, haynes and a few others. In the end I bought a trackace
Trackace DIY Laser Wheel Alignment Gauge Car Tracking Save Money Fuel Tyres Tires CO2 Emissions - YouTube
and had a go myself.
A trackace can only tell you the angular difference between 2 wheels. You can then adjust them but this is only referencing each wheel against the other, and not against a straight line down the middle of the vehicle. My rear wheels were both pointing inwards too much, as well as both pointing to the left slightly. This will give a feeling of pulling to the left. You can't offset the front wheels to correct this. Setting the fronts against this will just make it worse. So I used the fishing line method of putting 1 length of fishing line down each side and got the distance front and rear between the lines to be the same. Compare this to a datum on the wheel centre plastic edge and keep checking the fishing line width then checking the datum to wheel and eventually you get the fishing lines parallel to each other and your Freelander. From here a bit of trigonometry on the angles so I knew what mm the wheel rim front should be from the fishing line and a trackace wheel to wheel comparison on rears, then same on fronts, and it was all set-up. Confirmed all measurements again and test drove it. It was perfect again. If you put a fishing line across a metal ruler with mm you can see slight changes on the wheel adjustment things show up easily.
My results above were ok for mine. It's a 2001 v6. LR changed the figures over the years it seems. Not sure why. I do know that if owners complained about the feel of the drive/steering then dealers could set the front wheels to an optimal setting to reduce sensitive steering. Figures were:
0˚10' = 0.167˚ or 0.167 degrees
When reading the measurements it can be difficult to appreciate what they really mean. Note the difference between ' and ˚
2.3˚ = 2.3 degrees
0.01˚ = 0.01 degrees
1˚15' = 1 degree and 15 minutes = 1 degree and 15/60 = 1 degree and fifteen sixtieths.
There's 60 minutes in 1 degree. So 1˚15' = 1.25 degrees = 1.25˚
1˚30' = 1 degree and 30 minutes = 1.5˚
1˚6' = 1.1˚
Also the minus sign or lack of minus sign (meaning it's a positive value) should be appreciated. Minus means in. Positive means out.
The trackace warns to check bush wear. Also sharp braking when positioning the vehicle. This can put the wheels in an odd position. Couple this to potentially worn bushes and this may be a reason why yours may be set-up correct, but not driving proper.
