Waxoyl

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The BH salt spray tests start with bare steel.

Many years ago, Waxoyl used to be pretty good .... and we used to use quite a bit of it. Now, based on my experience, it is utter crap and not fit for purpose .... so we don't use it, we use BH and Dinitrol, which does work.

Also, IME, BH UB Wax would have stopped the rust on @Henry_b 's subframe.

I agree those products are lightyears ahead of waxoyl.

Waxoyl from 30yrs ago is no where near what it is now, the modern stuff is utter crap
 
The BH salt spray tests start with bare steel.

Many years ago, Waxoyl used to be pretty good .... and we used to use quite a bit of it. Now, based on my experience, it is utter crap and not fit for purpose .... so we don't use it, we use BH and Dinitrol, which does work.

Also, IME, BH UB Wax would have stopped the rust on @Henry_b 's subframe.
they might test with bare steel but thats not the point you wouldnt use any sealer as a base coat, its not what you use its what its used on
 
I'll be treating underside of the body on my D3 this weekend. Not whole shebang but some localised areas and rear arches.

Plan is to wire brush thoroughly, rust converter, paint then grease or waxoyl. Good plan?
 
It's 15years old 156k, I just need to stave the rot off for a couple of years. Might just coat it in grease! Is the method I said sound?

Uhh yeah.

Waxoyl does a good job of hiding rust, not so much treating it..

Grease would probably be better tbh, but to that end it's sticky so you underside would look like a total hash after a few hundred miles. ;)
 
Uhh yeah.

Waxoyl does a good job of hiding rust, not so much treating it..

Grease would probably be better tbh, but to that end it's sticky so you underside would look like a total hash after a few hundred miles. ;)
im afraid my 40 years in the job is going to advise me better than a young lad whose apparently bodged a subframe member, if your treating the metal you do that before adding sealer, no sealer is an effective rust killer it can only slow it down ,stuff like vactan is an effective rust killer but it can only kill what it coats so rust pockets and pores may well still carry on rusting but youve certainly slowed it down adding more years
 
im afraid my 40 years in the job is going to advise me better than a young lad whose apparently bodged a subframe member, if your treating the metal you do that before adding sealer, no sealer is an effective rust killer it can only slow it down ,stuff like vactan is an effective rust killer but it can only kill what it coats so rust pockets and pores may well still carry on rusting but youve certainly slowed it down adding more years

What evidence do you have that I bodged it? you certainly don't need 40+ years of experience to effectively spray waxoyl.

I did if you read above treat it with kurust, didn't do it much good though.. :(

Just taking heed from what it says on the Can,, :cool:

Not that the manufacturers that make the stuff no anything mind you.. :rolleyes:
 
What evidence do you have that I bodged it? you certainly don't need 40+ years of experience to effectively spray waxoyl.

I did if you read above treat it with kurust, didn't do it much good though.. :(

Just taking heed from what it says on the Can,, :cool:

Not that the manufacturers that make the stuff no anything mind you.. :rolleyes:
you dont need experience to do many things,claiming your an expert and product is ****e is a different matter, the fact you supposedly took the time to take it back to bright metal and never painted and applied a rust killer to bright metal were no chemical reaction could take place, it would have been better to apply it to the rust, no sealant would have helped on a surface finish that was going to fail, its like spraying failing powder coat and blaming the sealer as the plastic is forced away from the steel,kurust is like vactan it converts surface rust to a inert coat suitable for painting, if its bright metal it dont stick but loses its activeness
 
you dont need experience to do many things,claiming your an expert and product is ****e is a different matter, the fact you supposedly took the time to take it back to bright metal and never painted and applied a rust killer to bright metal were no chemical reaction could take place, it would have been better to apply it to the rust, no sealant would have helped on a surface finish that was going to fail, its like spraying failing powder coat and blaming the sealer as the plastic is forced away from the steel,kurust is like vactan it converts surface rust to a inert coat suitable for painting, if its bright metal it dont stick but loses its activeness

Definitly chemically reacted with a pitting where the wire brush wouldn't get to..

however with that in mind..

  • Kills old rust and prevents new rust - Take note of this claim..
  • Forms a flexible weatherproof skin

https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/waxoyl/

Please read this and get back to me..
 
Definitly chemically reacted with a pitting where the wire brush wouldn't get to..

however with that in mind..

  • Kills old rust and prevents new rust - Take note of this claim..
  • Forms a flexible weatherproof skin

https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/waxoyl/

Please read this and get back to me..
you waxoyled a kurust coating not the metal, it does have mild rust stopping properties if sprayed on surface rust its not a miracle cure there isnt one
 
I'll be treating underside of the body on my D3 this weekend. Not whole shebang but some localised areas and rear arches.

Plan is to wire brush thoroughly, rust converter, paint then grease or waxoyl. Good plan?

Good plan, apart from the waxoyl ;) - seriously, have a look at both the salt spray test results I linked to above, AND have a look at what @gstuart achieved with BH / Dinitrol ....

The stuff @Disco1BFG posted is best..

Waxoyl isn't.. .

Agreed :) - @1988smithy - here's a picture of my D1 sill, which I replaced 4 years ago* , and, having degreased with brake cleaner, I just sprayed it with BH Dynax S-50 inside and out - if you zoom you can see inside the sill too ... I would say this is virtually corrosion proof .... and it has NOT been re-treated ........

(* the pic was taken a few mins ago - check the exif data if you like )

20190619_183919.jpg



You can even see where the underseal was scraped off to glue the new inner sill in place ..... and yet ... no rust ... :)
 
Good plan, apart from the waxoyl ;) - seriously, have a look at both the salt spray test results I linked to above, AND have a look at what @gstuart achieved with BH / Dinitrol ....



Agreed :) - @1988smithy - here's a picture of my D1 sill, which I replaced 4 years ago* , and, having degreased with brake cleaner, I just sprayed it with BH Dynax S-50 inside and out - if you zoom you can see inside the sill too ... I would say this is virtually corrosion proof .... and it has NOT been re-treated ........

(* the pic was taken a few mins ago - check the exif data if you like )

View attachment 181750


You can even see where the underseal was scraped off to glue the new inner sill in place ..... and yet ... no rust ... :)

That looks mint.

Seldom see a rust free Disco of anykind. ;)
 
Good plan, apart from the waxoyl ;) - seriously, have a look at both the salt spray test results I linked to above, AND have a look at what @gstuart achieved with BH / Dinitrol ....



Agreed :) - @1988smithy - here's a picture of my D1 sill, which I replaced 4 years ago* , and, having degreased with brake cleaner, I just sprayed it with BH Dynax S-50 inside and out - if you zoom you can see inside the sill too ... I would say this is virtually corrosion proof .... and it has NOT been re-treated ........

(* the pic was taken a few mins ago - check the exif data if you like )

View attachment 181750


You can even see where the underseal was scraped off to glue the new inner sill in place ..... and yet ... no rust ... :)
its good but then its on good metal but then so is schultz and others i doubt it would fair so well on the average corrosion waxoyl slapped over horses for courses
 
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