Defender td5 footwell rust

[Discodevon]

hello I have footwell rust in my td5 defender, It’s at the normal place where the bulk head meets the floor where the metals are sandwiched together, it’s not structural but want to catch it before it does, question is what to treat it with after wire brushing?

 

[Brown]

I slathered mine with the thin and runny variety of Dinitrol (ML3125) which seems to have sufficient corrosion inhibiting powers even after it has dried to keep the rust at bay. Everything looks black and inert rather than orange and active. Each time I have the floors up (e.g. clutch changes, gearbox work etc) I put some more on. No discernable rust progress in the last six years.

 

[Scooby22]

Put Ku-rust on it to cure the rust then Dinitrol,

 

[Gmacz]

Red lead paint and then td5 paint.

 

[nobber]

Can you still buy Red Lead?

 

[Discodevon]

Thank you lads much appreciated, any know a good red lead/ oxide? It’s a tad flaky on the edges so will need to clean that up first before I apply anything

 

[windy81]

lead oxide paint was banned eons ago, if i'm not mistaken due to the COSHH rules
The 'red oxide' paint nowdays is just a pigment colour but with none of the lead, which is pointless.
Better off with zinc paint from Bilt Hamber. It's offers way better protection from rust.

 

[Discodevon]

I recently used the no nonsense red oxide from screwfix and found it to be proper rubbish

 

[Gmacz]

I used the same stuff 2 years ago on my footwells although they were new welded ones. I haven't painted them since, just bare red oxide and no rust at all. Underside has thick paint on top. Could just be paddocks coating underneath but still good.

 

[mick 1986]

lead oxide paint was banned eons ago, if i'm not mistaken due to the COSHH rules
The 'red oxide' paint nowdays is just a pigment colour but with none of the lead, which is pointless.
Better off with zinc paint from Bilt Hamber. It's offers way better protection from rust.

Not all red oxide is just a colour. The Tor Coatings stuff I used is a zinc rich primer, it just so happens that it is coloured red like the days of old. The 5ltr container weighed over 20kg, so it must have had a decent amount of zinc.

 

[Discodevon]

That stuff looks the dogs nutts mick thank you very much!!

 

[Muppetdaze]

So I have rusty holes on the 45 degree slope part where it meets the flat part of the foot well, they're not big but I can see through them. Is it a case of cutting out just that strip or buying new foot wells?

If so are paddocks the best place to get them?

 

[mick 1986]

So I have rusty holes on the 45 degree slope part where it meets the flat part of the foot well, they're not big but I can see through them. Is it a case of cutting out just that strip or buying new foot wells?

If so are paddocks the best place to get them?

I would get them from YRM, but that’s personal choice.

It depends on the state of the rest of the steel work as to how much you need to cut out and replace. You can’t weld to rust, so you will need to find decent steel to weld the new panels to.

 

[Discodevon]

So I have rusty holes on the 45 degree slope part where it meets the flat part of the foot well, they're not big but I can see through them. Is it a case of cutting out just that strip or buying new foot wells?

If so are paddocks the best place to get them?

What age is your defender?

 

[Muppetdaze]

It's an 85 military 110

 

[Gmacz]

Here is my footwells, 90 is kept outside. Looks good after 2 years. Not good that after 2 years they are still in red oxide. Got them from paddocks.

 

[Discodevon]

View attachment 169906 View attachment 169907
Here is my footwells, 90 is kept outside. Looks good after 2 years. Not good that after 2 years they are still in red oxide. Got them from paddocks.

Red oxide is proper old school now, but it takes some beating